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Bit of advice, may sound obvious but work out what percentage of your weekly income is taken up by van costs, insurance etc. otherwise you may think you're earning enough but in reality it's getting gobbled up with costs.

I'd agree with the batten and board plan but if you are determined to skim straight on use blue grit/WBA or bondit instead of pva.

Need a sh*t ton of this for my loft conversion. Where's best bet to buy from and what price should I expect to pay? Cheers guys

General question on all of these flexi trowels. Do you actually achieve a better finish or is it just easier to finish with? Compared to a mt for example.

Genius! I came up with an invention t'other day. A little fan that clips on a hand saw and blows sawdust away so u can see your line.

Old thread, weirdly revived but as we're on the subject... does everyone on here test artex for asbestos before scraping?

Good advice Tony, I used to work for a French polishers and we used to use this to bleach would. Comes from rhubarb I believe!

Looks like oiled veneer oak doors mate? Defo not the sort of thing u want plaster on so in future cover up. Lacquered woods are sealed so comes off easier. You could sand them but will have to re oil after.

Pva and multi finish is what I do but I'd advise you to talk them into skimming the whole wall. I normally say a patch will be seen if you know it's there and the price difference won't be much by the time you've got there, set up etc.

I found it! .... In your van. :RpS_thumbsup:

The angled bit between the wall and ceiling.

Mould aye? Don't use the old football then Malc?

Good idea Scottie, walls first should be easier to get it straight.

Only got the 1200 and 600. :(

cheers pal, there is two 7meter curves so can't say I'm looking forward to them! Might run the old football along them!

Its a trussed roof bob and he put them on so I can always blame him!

We did the boarding so hopefully okay!

Got this big ceiling to skim and a very fussy customer. The top of the skeiling is to be curved onto the lid so no probs but he wants the line where the skeiling meets the wall to be angled dead straight. Would you guys set a stop bead on straight before skimming?

With first method you screw plasterboard into battens, forgot to say!

Thats not enough space to have a cavity and new stud wall then. You'll have to waterproof the single skin (waterproof render), then you can either screw battens to internal wall and fill with celotex or stick on insulated plasterboard.

Like John said, build a new stud wall at least 50 mm off of the wall effectively making your single skin wall a cavity wall. If it was me I would paint 3 coats of liquid dpm on the wall first and put 100mm celotex between the studs and use PIR boards but this will take up a bit more room.

:RpS_w00t:

Thanks pal, same method I use for normal boards. Just wanted to double check.

Grip fill is smelly! Pinky all the way.

Starting the dabbing tomo. How do you guys secure the top reveal while the addy goes off? I'm guessing screwing into the lintel is a bad idea!

Not yet pal, we've put in a quote for an investigation but the customers insurance company are refusing to commit until they have a full estimate. Catch 22! Just taken on a 4 week boarding and skimming job so not too bothered.

Down south, £300 for that room inc mats. £400 unlikely but possible.

I play by ear mate, sometimes I'll give a price there and then, others ill email or phone back (bigger jobs generally). The advantage of quoting on the spot is you can gauge their reaction and I find its harder for them to say no. As for tape measure, only for big jobs and boarding jobs.

Cheers mate, last question do you drill them in or just hammer them?

Thanks, I've used similar to fit warm roof decks. How many do you use per board?

Do you mean fixings additional to the adhesive? thanks for all replies.

Got a job d&d PIR boards, new one for me so was hoping for some advice. Is it normal procedure and anything to watch out for? and around window/door reveals is there anything to know as there will be some insulation on show, is this skimmable?

Thanks for all your replies guys, I will let you know when I've had a looksie!

Hey guys, strange damp problem I went to see today, hoping you guys have some ideas to the cause. There's 2 patches around the lintel so my first thought was fault with the cavity tray(prob lead by age of the house). However as you can see in the first picture a patch has also appeared at...

DD is much quicker and let's be honest, looks the same when it's skimmed. It's normally my preference but I enjoy a bit of floating now and then.

Hate tp's. Got a stop bead from there last week 1.85. Bit steep but I paid it. Went in a few days back they tried to charge me 4.85!

Nisus, do u find these pics on google or are these jobs you've had to rectify?

So with 1 coating do you put on really thick to fill the angle beads?

What stage is he on there? Has he flattened or just put on? Hard to tell in vid.

It's not good practice and I personally would sheet up and would not leave that sort of a mess. However, it sounds like he told u the carpet would be ruined and you've accepted that so I can sort of see why he didn't bother. My advise is to just get a new carpet and forget about it.

I just used granite work tops as an example. What I mean is I'd of thought in high spec houses people would demand plastered walls. Dry lining looks and feels so cheap.

Why does it kill them?

It surprises me that they build houses with travertine tiles, graniteworktops etc, then finish your walls like a travel lodge.

If the artex isn't too peaky I personally would scrape it down, 2 pva and skim first coat thicker, second coat normal. Each to his own though!

Loren, if a new high spec mansion was built, would it still be drylined?

My in laws have a house in southern Spain near Granada and they told me that a sort of spray on filler is commonly used. It's a rough old finish but suits the old houses I guess.

Just a curiosity really, in which countries is plastering still prominent? I believe dry lining is the norm in USA, Australia, I know in France newbuilds are all drylined (with shitty metal studwork!) as I've done some work there. Any one know about other countries?

Btw, is that a low ceiling or is Karl 7ft tall?

Tiny boarded wall with no sockets, beads or obstacles. Nice one Karl.

These massive sets people talk about, I assume you're talking about fully boarded rooms? I'm sure people can skim quicker than others but the prep on an average job takes as long as it takes surely. Sheet up, get tools out of van, pva (2 rooms on your own must take enough time!), wait until...