Kitchen Plastering Advice

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tompy

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Hello,

I've moved in to an old 1905 built house with a kitchen extension on the back, built about 20 years ago. The one exterior wall of this kitchen is single skin breeze block construction, rendered on the outside.

Inside is plaster and there were ceramic tiles on top of this which have now been removed. The back of the house gets all the weather and it looks and feels like there is water coming through the wall. Not in great quantities but it feels and looks damp.

The surveyor advised to dry-line the wall. Builders have advised foil-backed insulation or alternatively painting on a damp-proof membrane.

My question is: whichever method I use, do I need to take the existing plaster back to the block-work and then apply the new coating?

Also, on both the walls that join the exterior wall, the plaster is old and uneven, due to the tiling adhesive. Should this be taken back to the brick/blocks and completely re-plastered or just skimmed?

Thanks for any advice!
 
I am not a plasterer. There are also other things to consider. Are you changing your cabinets? Remember you will lose 4 or more inches per framed wall. You can "fur" the wall and not lose as much, but not have as much insulation. Are you going to rewire? If you rewire you may need to build or fur, to get the wiring in place. I wouldn't like the damp issue either. Kitchen is a bad place to get mold. Hope this helps, best of luck.
 
You have lots of options.
Firstly tho, if there is water penetrating in this needs to be stopped.
On the inside you could then tank the walls with synthaprufe or similar product then batten out the walls with min 50x50mm timbers and insulate between, apply a vapour barrier and then board and skimm or use foil backed board and omit the vapour check. If kitchen fixings could be a problem you can install osb board behind the plasterboard.

Another option would be to install an external wall insulation system on the outside and just tank and board on the inside.

I would hack off the inside plastering yes if it is defective.
 
The moisture is coming from outside, so the render must be at fault. A good render decorated properly will stop the weather.

Stud wall etc will only cover the damp up. Not stop it at source.
 
The moisture is coming from outside, so the render must be at fault. A good render decorated properly will stop the weather.

Stud wall etc will only cover the damp up. Not stop it at source.

Exactly!
 
Like John said, build a new stud wall at least 50 mm off of the wall effectively making your single skin wall a cavity wall. If it was me I would paint 3 coats of liquid dpm on the wall first and put 100mm celotex between the studs and use PIR boards but this will take up a bit more room.
 
Many thanks for all the advice!

Interesting to hear the advice to waterproof outside and use of both liquid dpm and celotex too.

New kitchen units going in but they were ordered before this was taken in to consideration! So not much space to play with! Probably have about 50mm space allowed.

Should be enough to use 25mm celotex - would this then be boarded over in plasterboard?

Thanks again?
 
Many thanks for all the advice!

Interesting to hear the advice to waterproof outside and use of both liquid dpm and celotex too.

New kitchen units going in but they were ordered before this was taken in to consideration! So not much space to play with! Probably have about 50mm space allowed.

Should be enough to use 25mm celotex - would this then be boarded over in plasterboard?

Thanks again?

Thats not enough space to have a cavity and new stud wall then. You'll have to waterproof the single skin (waterproof render), then you can either screw battens to internal wall and fill with celotex or stick on insulated plasterboard.
 
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