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skimmned over dried pva for years never had any comebacks

do you really think hes going to take you to court or is it just a bit of mouth,bet he aint got a clue what the f@@k hes on about, if hes that bothered he will send you solicitors letters first ,as i say f@@k him wait till it really happens

f**k him let him have the hassle of taking you to court

been to see a k-rend job that somebody had started apparantly took the customers money and gone,dont know why cause they have made a decent job,got to give them a price to finish off about 20m2 of krend and two bay windows that have been ply lined ,breathable felt and then eml,would we be ok to...

what sort of money are you talking, if i was you let him take you to court sounds like youve been fair to me

definitly the soot should have sbr then a coat of render on top as the soot will be drawing all the moisture from the air thats why youll always have damp patches where the dabs are

sounds cheap to me,what did they have to do to the walls

tell him to bill the bloke who did the bonding,how come it never had a skim coat on it before

just re board and skim dont split any money makes you sound dodgey

do loads of garage conversions just phone up the planning office with the postcode and they will tell you straight away if it needs planning as regards firecheck boards they are not usually required as it becoming part of the house and not a garage anymore

sounds like you would be better studding the walls out and putting a timber at the hieght you want to fix at,personally wouldnt want to be dabbing on to stone walls due to damp and salt problems

eml for defo or needle gun the lot,bitof chance just sbr straighton cant see it lasting long.

agree with flat boy why bother going on a course if you working with a plasterer, whats he say about it,better of giving him the money

been pva ing the day before and skimming over dry for years never had any comebacks,always do two coats of pva the day before

got an old workshop to do in weber mono over concrete blocks going to rendaid it all first, materials supplied,but in some area it has the old concrete lintels that were above the doors and windows do you think i would be ok to eml over these areas prior to the rendaid or do i need to get the...

always find that the makita ones always end up getting stuck in the end of the gun ,usually buy them from d.i.p.t ,just had a look at those and ended up buying 10000 brilliant price

do anyone now where to get weber mono from cheaper than 8.40 +vat need 100m2,midlands area

bricks sound like they were contaminated with soot or moisture from gas fire which has caused them to salt up,salty or sooty bricks will always draw the moisture from the air and when they try to dry out will always salt up and then when ou get a damp day they do the same again,need to sbr where...

should have given it a coat of sbr before s&c would have stopped any salt coming through,does the salt line look yellow

was it on top of a painted wall oasis if so always use bondit pva will always come away when you start to trowel up

what was the wall like before you s&c it

save any hassel over board it mate, no comebacks job done

good on ya mate for not giving up,now you can go for it!

if it can be cured mate i would let the wall dry out batton and board it putting 100mm felt behind the battons,insulate between battons,but i think your best of finding the soure of the damp problem first

weres the damp coming from?

if theres loads of it we have a skip, but if its only a van full have an ageement with our local skip hire company if we unload it £15 a van full

always get ours from travis perkins or buildbase

defo take down the damaged area and overboard the lot,cause you know what some customers are like best tell em what you doin

had quite a few jobs from the two vans ive had over ths past ten years,had two people ask yesterday ones got a barn conversion,as you say oasis its gotta be done

thank god for self adesive tape,used to use cotton or hessian back in the day

have a large set of dividers,always make them myself out of plasterboard then use plastic arch beads perfect everytime

will give you an update on keens tommorow,just now my mate used all the time in the 90s laggin vessels and he was the kiddie

about 12 pints

how many times as a spread used keens thats a laggers job

just a big stick with brushes on thats fine

been tryin to find out for years who to contact for this sort of work think most insurance companys use francised companys for the big jobs and leave it up to the jo public for the smaller jobs to find somebody

got a large hall stairs and landing next week £780,£300 that is cheap with materials as well

a good pld bit of roofing lath and im sure they use to make the board beads extra sharp so they cut ya hand to f***, and hand balling them bags of the back of the delivery truck

try using one of those knifes with snap off blades that you can push the blade right out and cut from the insulated side works no probs

try www.celotex.co.uk loads of info on there

dont talk to me about keys, yesterday morning looking for me van keys for 45 mins ended up finding them under me daughters home work book,after running round the house like a mainiac

if you know any roofers or builders see if theyve got any breathable felt you can have for that amount

just have a free ad with them had some jobs from it all right for nowt

waste of time, no to scrim on screws

same as, then finished yts got 60 a week thought i had hit the jackpot with twice as much money a week

always price solid same as you say it works out the same buy the time youve cut your reveals and beads

get the german ones there qaulity had 2 for about 8 years,screw a 3 foot piece of floor board to the plastic head piece holds up 8x4 no problem

give bondit a mix round every couple of roller fulls stops all the grit sinking to the bottom

doin it totally wrong shoud have used a milk pan much better finish

clearing up small jobs this week back at next week then all hell let loose in feb