fixing kitchen cupboards to plasterboard - whats possible?

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ksjs

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im in process of renovating our house. for various reasons we're boarding some walls - not best but all things considered thats how it'll be.

one of the walls being boarded will take kicthen cupboards. now i know there are fixings for plasterboard but do these things actually work?

im not convinced so i see options as:

1. use sufficient adhesive in areas where cupboards will be and fix into this using rawplugs as if fixing into brick
2. use battens / studs and fix to these

what do most people do? will plasterboard fixings eg

http://www.leofixings.com/fixings_Cavity+Fixings-8.html

actually do the job?

any help much appreciated - thanks
 
If your fixing plasterboard to stud work, the best way is to first fix sheets of ply along the walls that are going to be taking the cupboards. then board over with the plasterboard. This will make it easier as your have a good fixing anywhere on those walls. If dot and dabbing, look at the drawings of the kitchen, work out where the cupboards are going and put extra adhesive for fixings. Then plug and fix.
 
hi the item you are looking for is called rigifix. google it. its basically a fixing that takes the weight of the cupbourd into the brick. each fixing is cappable of holding half a tonne. its a very clever safe labour saving device. if you require more info or need to know where to get them from gladly private mesage me and ill point you in the right direction
 
if putting a stud wall up dont bother with ply as extra expence... just put your noggins in at the cuboard fixing height
 
smooth_exteriors said:
a fixing that takes the weight of the cupbourd into the brick.
thats part of the problem, the walls are stone hence very tough to drill and not even spacing so no guarantee of there being something solid to fix into
 
mikewestonplastering said:
If dot and dabbing, look at the drawings of the kitchen, work out where the cupboards are going and put extra adhesive for fixings. Then plug and fix.
are you saying that fixing into the adhesive is perfectly acceptable? i might not be able to do this though given exposed lime mortar (which the adhesive does not like [adhere to] at all!
 
Render Systems said:
if putting a stud wall up dont bother with ply as extra expence... just put your noggins in at the cuboard fixing height
and what if i use adhesive and the fixings that are designed for this type of load - will boards that are adequately fixed REALLY withstand the loading over time? i just dont believe that plasterboard is strong enough!
 
you can also put a bit of copper pipe in where you want to fix, it will stop the board from pulling back, ive never done it myself but have seen it done.
 
sounds like you would be better studding the walls out and putting a timber at the hieght you want to fix at,personally wouldnt want to be dabbing on to stone walls due to damp and salt problems
 
I use metal cavity anchors that you fix with a setting tool. They are very good but as a kitchen fitter I would not trust them to hold wall units for any time. if you can get battens fitted great, but to be honest mate I would be wanting the wall to be float and set! no problems of the units dropping and to be honest a better way of sorting your wall.
 
some good suggestions there..

you know when the sparks have been and run vertical cables all over your kitchen for the new regs - everythings gotta be on isolators above worktop height etc so theres f'cking cables everywhere....

what do you do when the cables in the way? you dont bother firing a fixing in, you forget it and screw the unit to the next one along.... what you sometimes end up with is 4 units supported on 4 red rawl plugs with 1 1/2 inch screws in em...

what im saying is - you aint gonna be yanking em out the wall like your hanging a wrought iron gate... 99% of the weight is vertically downward...

D+D wall? all I'd do is drill your 6mm hole as normal, use a longer screw and a red rawl plug... if that doesnt pull up either shove another plug in the same hole till it does or use a starfix 80mm or so... (the self tapping concrete screws)...

btw, I do these day in day out when Im not plastering....
for the council that is, and you know what council tennants are like, theyve gotta stay on or Ive gotta go back...

another suggestion is to hang it as normal then fire a 2x1 batten to the wall directly underneath the units if its gonna have a pelmet.... you wont see it - extra support...
 
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