alternative to metal lathing

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ruddez

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is there an alternative to eml for rendering with sand and cement over an old stone wall to prevent cracking as it will be going on quite thick in places,thanks
 
Rib lathe is similar to eml is it not ??
Similar mate....but......as you fix it your overlap is more solid, as the ribs overlap one another = less chance of cracking.
Little tip......
If the wall is really, really uneven, ....scratch it first, then lath, then scratch out to the ribs, then float out to a finish......several days between coats is best.
Otherwise use render mesh.
 
I know what it is that's y I said it's similar. So they ain't a great deal of difference to eml
 
if using render mesh with sand and cement is it trowelled into the scratch coat or tacked on as i have never used it before,as the stonework has some cracks running down along the mortar joints would the render mesh do the same job as eml as anybody knows who have used eml its a pain to put on especially trying to keep it flat even with fixing with screws and washers,
 
You will find rib lath has more strength and key than eml. Eml is a render carrier.

But as suggested above. Treat your existing surface first with a bonding agent like an sbr slurry or Rendagrip. Build out your hollows and let cure. Use mesh fibres in your mix. Them fix your wire mesh.

Personally, after going to the trouble of building out the stone as described above, I would use a modern polyester rendering mesh 8-10 mm mesh. Maybe 6mm fibreglass strands as well for good measure.

Parex TV 10 mesh is ideal for sand and cement. The usual 4mm mesh is too small for sand and cement.

Once you have got that far just render as normal.
 
You will find rib lath has more strength and key than eml. Eml is a render carrier.

But as suggested above. Treat your existing surface first with a bonding agent like an sbr slurry or Rendagrip. Build out your hollows and let cure. Use mesh fibres in your mix. Them fix your wire mesh.

Personally, after going to the trouble of building out the stone as described above, I would use a modern polyester rendering mesh 8-10 mm mesh. Maybe 6mm fibreglass strands as well for good measure.

Parex TV 10 mesh is ideal for sand and cement. The usual 4mm mesh is too small for sand and cement.

Once you have got that far just render as normal.

Top advise as always




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one more thing,when using the polyester render mesh how do you fix it,do you paint a slurry of unibond over it to hold down or just render straight over,thanks
 
Similar mate....but......as you fix it your overlap is more solid, as the ribs overlap one another = less chance of cracking.
Little tip......
If the wall is really, really uneven, ....scratch it first, then lath, then scratch out to the ribs, then float out to a finish......several days between coats is best.
Otherwise use render mesh.
Thought the ribs go against the wall
 
Just use lime, no need for all this mesh, primers etc. Harl a coat of 3-1 on then dub out with 3-1 will go on thick.
 
I have always do it so the ribs are pointing out as welll... seems like the other way makes sense as well
 
how deep into the render does the mesh go,i laid on the render and then trowelled the mesh in,when i scratched the render it was exposing surface of the mesh is that ok or should i have put another tight coat over the top to give it a bit more depth and then scratched,thanks
 
how deep into the render does the mesh go,i laid on the render and then trowelled the mesh in,when i scratched the render it was exposing surface of the mesh is that ok or should i have put another tight coat over the top to give it a bit more depth and then scratched,thanks
Yeh or do it in two passes so on a 10mm base 5mm bed in then top another 5mm
 
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