spunky
Private Member
Not if one would have a heart attack before one hit the deck mr foreman who didn't see it coming through the gates
Parex or Lime Render?
- Thread starter Plasteringrooky
- Start date
- Status
Not if one would have a heart attack before one hit the deck mr foreman who didn't see it coming through the gates
brendankelly
New Member
I cannot pm you either. I put my email address on my bio page on this forum.
brendankelly
New Member
A great tool for the first coat on rubble stone, straw bale etc but a waste of time for the second coat or on even surfaces like heroclytt etc. A complete waste of time if you do not have a 200 litre compressor. We have invented a new machine that will pump the render direct from the mixer. This is for pumping in hemp/lime insulation and we will be testing it I would say the end of July.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
Hopefully got a rep from a company called Socli coming out on Monday to show us some Chaux Aerienne products for the internal walls, not a nhl. I think it's probably a non-hydraulic lime cement mix.
brendankelly
New Member
We were going to use Gutex on the inside. either with or without the fibre board.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
Here's a link to the actual blocks I've used, R50's which are 500mm deep.
http://www.wienerberger.fr/servlet/...filename=Porotherm_R50,0.pdf&sl=wb_fr_home_fr
The walls look like they've been on steroids at half a metre thick. I've just been reading about the Gutex products, interesting. I think they work on similar principles by using a combination of thermal resistance and thermal inertia.
After speeking to my freind at the Builders Merchants, he doesn't recommend d'n'd plasterboard as it hinders the inertia effect.
What do you use to finish Gutex?
Plasteringrooky
New Member
I think it goes like this.
It's very much like electric room storage heaters. The fire bricks inside the heater, which are high mass, take-on-board heat from an electrical element and stocks it until needed. It then gives it back on demand.
In the case of high mass insulation, the walls mass is charged while the room air temperature is higher than the walls temperature. It then gives back the heat when the temperatures are reversed i.e wall temperature higher than room air temperature. The trick is to have as little ‘lost’ heat energy in this process, heat traversing right through the wall to the outside. I’ve found that cavity walls with the likes of Thermalite on the inside and cavity fill insulation have a similar effect. The room takes longer to heat up, charging the walls mass (blocks) but stays warm for longer once the heat source has been cut, giving back stocked heat as it has not been allowed to pass the cavity insulation.
Walls constructed with very little mass on the heat source side (inside) and before the insulation layer, like timber framed structures, have higher fluctuations in temperature as it only takes an air change to remove the majority of the applied heat, no mass to stock the heat.
Higher Mass = Equitable climates, a bit like the uk surrounded by the mass of the sea acting as a huge heat sink.
Some say that mass insulation has no place in modern living as we spend more and more time out of the home and therefore is better to have quick reacting heating systems that only heat the air on demand. Because of this, we also rely more and more on Air Conditioning in hot weather.
I’ve used these blocks because during the summer the blocks are very good insulators from the suns heat and also extract heat from the inside air as the blocks are cooler (heat sink). In the evenings/night when the outside air temperatures are lower, I’ll run basic air circulation, or even just open windows to release the heat extracted by the blocks during the day. Hopefully no need for Air Con, which I can’t stand.
Sorry for lengthy explanation.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
Meshing sounds complicated.
brendankelly
New Member
These are the same as we used in Cork. The secret is in laying them. You must be pretty exact. The builder on our job was German and he knew them from there. They are amassing. In many ways they are the same as rubble stone and lime.
We ruled out dot and dab as well. We have used Gutex on old buildings where we first floated a lime plaster on rubble stone and then stuck the gutex fibre board and then finished this with the gutex plaster. I am doing one at present and if you fancy a holiday you are welcome to see it.
We ruled out dot and dab as well. We have used Gutex on old buildings where we first floated a lime plaster on rubble stone and then stuck the gutex fibre board and then finished this with the gutex plaster. I am doing one at present and if you fancy a holiday you are welcome to see it.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
I've found the trick with these blocks is to be very exact in the laying of the first course. It must be bag-on level and plumb as there is no room to alter later, with there being no bed joint. The rest ‘should’ have been pretty easy, however, the 50’s do not come with the accessory blocks like the smaller depth blocks. I also built swept heads into the window openings. The problem with this is that you break the level bed for the next lift, especially as they are in-situ concrete lintels. I also had to double up on everything, used 37cm wide lintel channels and also formed an additional 13cm lintel at the back and tied the two together. Worked out quite nicely as the front lintel blocks stopped a cold bridge being formed which flowed with the windows. I’ve not seen this design done before, neither had the supplier.
Thanks for the offer Brendan. Would that be a working holiday? bearing in mind it’s me looking for a plasterer ;-)
brendankelly
New Member
When I went to see this job they had all the external walls done and were finishing the internal walls. I was impressed with the German builder. It was like leggo. Every block perfect. As straight as the barrel of a gun. He had a big saw for cutting the blocks and they were cut to the mm. He had all the poroton lintels and a U poroton block with concrete to hold the rag bolts. It is about 3 hours from my house but I will go to see it to see what happened after the German builder left (Him and the house owner fell out over money).
You can write it off as a working holiday, I will try to write it off as an International meeting of minds. I doubt it my accountant will buy into it.
You can write it off as a working holiday, I will try to write it off as an International meeting of minds. I doubt it my accountant will buy into it.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
The machined faces on the blocks I used where as flat as any machine bed I've ever seen, they were exact and the thin bed joint worked well.
bodplasterer
Active Member
I still mix all our s,n,c renders by hand but what i gather is the alure of prebagged render is the ratios are the same i cant guarentee that my labourer is gonna get a spot on mix ever time as in the past its come out all different colours even though hes convinced he has done the same mix, also if there is a problems with the likes of k-rend or weber you have great customer service and they would be glad to put anything right we have just looked at a job the other day and some one had f**ked up the render and not even being k-rends thought had some come out and look at the job and has offered the people a ton of k-rend as compensation so you get that peace of of mind.
lucius
Well-Known Member
The ones we get in Spain are not machined well enough to thin bed in fact some of them are like bannanas so obviously we have a difference of quality between the two countries which dosent surprise me, do you hane any photos of the lintol details.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
I'd be keen to keep customers happy if I were charging 4-500% the cost of the materials just for mixing and bagging.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
Normal clay blocks are made from a log extrusion, cut and then fired. The cutting and firing distorts the block a little. Not normally a problem if laid with a normal 10mm mortar bed joint. These blocks are extruded in long lengths, the lengths are then fired and then the blocks are prescision cut after firing so no disortion.
lucius
Well-Known Member
brendankelly
New Member
lucius
Well-Known Member
Well i doupt thin bed will cause condensation even though it is physicly possible but it would be to thin to cause any real problem, maybe thats why in Spain they shellface with morter no cold bridging.
brendankelly
New Member
I was at a presentation where a guy showed that the wall ties in the cavity block houses could cause cold bridging and with the -6 and -7 degree frost we are now getting cold bridging, condensation and moulds are a real concern.
brendankelly
New Member
If I knew I would be someplace warm with a beer in each hand.
rockhardsolidplastering
Active Member
:-0
Plasteringrooky
New Member
Is that internal surface condensation or interstitial condensation?
Plasteringrooky
New Member
Heat and Ventilation.
Plasteringrooky
New Member
[FONT="]It's the sealed windows and doors that cause the problem. It always makes me laugh when we buy weather sealed windows and doors and then fit background ventilation vents in the frames.[/FONT]
lucius
Well-Known Member
YOU have lost me Brendan first you say thin bedding can cause condensation which i said i doupt then you answer with wall ties, we are talking about solid walls not cavity work.:RpS_unsure:
- Status