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just use a stop bead or a shadow gap bead, i've done a couple of these over the years and always think traditional is best.

seen it in the 80s on nexts flagship store on oxford st.

This is where all this BLM s**t makes me laugh because the biggest threat to a young black persons life is another black person.

Just finished a silicone job 4, 25sqm panels done the first panel and went home and waited a week for cooler weather that s**t don't half go off in the sun.

A builder when mentioning waterproofing in a quote means putting a splash of waterproofer in the mix all this will do is stop the plastering from setting it will not act as a water proof barrier. To waterproof anything internally you need to apply a tanking slurry, usually for below ground or...

I would sbr bricks and use a cement slurry., messy s**t job.

i always use dry wall adhesive with scrim to fill chases ,trowel flat then easi fill 20 .a couple of days later.

Day one nvq plaster boarding or what ever s**t they call it today spacing on the boards, why does it say plaster other side only on boards derrrr,, No wonder the industry is f**k*d.

As long as it is tacky throw it on but keep it to 6 mm stone and wash it before hand .

You will need the underside of the stairs framed to form a curve in timber then boarded with 6mm plasterboard it's more a carpentry job.

i usually go over paint with a wire attachment on a grinder and score end with cuts then grit.

s**t position to be in , everyone of us who have been in this game for along time me over 30 years would have experienced same issues , there are just T***s who make a living out of ripping people off give HMRC a call and drop him in it with dealing in cash and not vat resisted his and the...

The problem i found with a 50s -60s house is the render is done to last and hacking off all the render was leaving a lot of damage to the fabric of the building with the bricks being shot to bits especially around pipes and windows and leaving cracks to the inside with either a 50mm cavity or...

I've done a couple of these as long as the existing render is sound, wire attachment on a grinder to take off any loose paint ,cut lines with said grinder for a good key ,rendagrit then mesh basecoat and silicone finish takes all the hassle out of hacking off .

The spec we used back in the 80s was pva stipple with a tyrolean gun and render rule flat and scim, absolute bitch of a job

That's about as basic as it gets ,if you do not know how to sort that little mess out what the f**k are you doing in this game and i presume your charging the customer or should i say fleecing..

Got over-boarding written all over it .for what you would pay for easifill and pva you could board it. Not a Mr Patel is it who wants the job done for nothing that would be a surprise.

why don't you try k rend k1 and bed mesh in and float up.

used a couple of bags of it that a plumber got for me to do a bathroom and i found it ok, like the old knauf stuff i used to use on barretts sites,.i suppose the secret is to be a real spread.

when ever i measure up a house or extension i always get the same question where bi-folds or window walls are , i hope your not going measure that whole wall up,i always reply no i do not measure window or door walls up as whole i measure them up as a liner metre for reveals and heads, shuts...

And that is why we have now got the kung flu because we have sold out our great quality British manufacturing base to this cheap s**t.

mix it 50 /50 with lime and it's the same as fresh plaster, been doing it for weeks.

wash the dash before you use so you get all the dust ,s**t off the stones.

i just hope that BG have not furlough staff when they could have keeped going like the supermarkets have and have now caused a problem with 10s000 of trades unable to work due to jobs unable to progress, it would be criminal if they received government money.

i would imagine b&q are just shifting stock which as a sell by date to these stores so they don't get caught with loads of out of date stock thinking of themselves. shut the f**k down.

You should not be working for peanuts if you are self employed ,it's your own business the only problem is there are to many fake self employed with the employer having to pick up no responsibility for your welfare , i can't believe the amount of people earning under £200 a day and calling...

bluebirds , enough said.

with tools i have always associated cheap with crap , i was just checking out all these new trowels everybody is raving about but they seem to be no better or as good than a good old marshalltown ss ,after my second coat there is not a mark on the wall,but i think people want to put one coat...

how much

16 in, tool station i think £40 .

bought the oxo ultra flex a couple of months ago and leaves marks everywhere, bit disappointing as i'm trying all these new ways after over 30 years of plastering and nothing comes close to a marshalltown ss trowel, second coat and not a mark, ultra flex and lines everywhere.

so i take it no one has ever taken anything off site when we have had a hobble on,because that would be intentionally stealing off your employer.

if they can't be bothered to look for whats on the trolley and bill me for what they can only be bothered to scan that's their problem,i am sure we are all standing there saying, or you missed that and have not scanned this, would not happen in selcos well switched on in there, glass houses and...

if i ever wanted anything i would just go and buy it but i have on occasions caught someone using one of my trowels as a scraper and it pisses me right off, that cost me over £50 and is 5 years old and your scraping the floor with it,as they say a good runner will always beat a good fighter ,so...

when ever i need new blades ,tape ,pad saw or any other small tools i go to b and q and get them but put them under a couple of bags of sand or finish, if they can't be bothered to look what you have got their problem. that's what you get when you pay your workforce the min wage they don't give...

the everbuild stuff i found was great but i did go over whole entire side of house with wire attachment on a drill to remove any loose paint render then put in deep scratches with a diamond blade before base coating with fibre mesh and silicone topcoat.

everbuild rendergrip the whole lot and alpine over the top,i have also done this myself.

Never paper , you might of used bandage scrim instead of hessian as it is a bit more easier to put on,what would you use scrim tape or traditional,we are talking north of £5sqm on my jobs, not your house bashing s**it.

i just tell them it's a minimum of a day £150 and if you want me to sweep up or fill the skip i'm quite happy

Try sbr and sand with food colour and leave to dry nextt day pva neat with a roller and you will have no problem.

leave a day and just be quick, no bubbles but like glass

You need to tap the render to find out how much of it is hollow before you remove it, it's been on for 8 years so can't be that bad,if you are in the south east you will probably be using pit sand which is s**t compared to dredged sand which is much coarser . If it's all hollow get it off and...

all self adhesive tape is crap,only developed for house bashing. if you want a quality job use hessian like in the 80s bit more time but no cracks. i remember going in on a saturday just to tape up the house with cloth for a monday start and it's nice to see those same houses over 30 years later...

With a pourus sandy render i have tried going over it with sbr in the past to try and stabilise it, do a 10sqm test patch and see what it's like.