If your wanting plain run make your own template and run some, at least that way you'll get exactly what you want. Might be an idea to try any fibrous shops near you or phone round to see what they've got.
I've seen this done loads and all I think it is from the pic's is that the plasters not been applied thick enough and or not allowed to pull in enough before 2nd coating or flattening off.
I was not implying that you had gone for the cheapest quote but what people do not think about is the...
Not a thing mate honest LOL We have a fair bit of contact with S&J reps at work and I'm just wanting to prove to them that us spreads dont just base everything on price. All the lads and lasses get the chance to handle a centenary and they all say how good it feels etc.
Would it be worth...
How much would you guys & Gals be prepared to pay for a good skimming trowel? I mean of an exceptionally good standard similar to the old tyzack centenary, I know it all depends on preference but lets work on a 13" stainless.
Should be a gap 3 to 5mm between the boards to allow plaster to push through and strengthen the joint. If you mean that you can see a thin line of plaster that looks like it is sagging down the gaps may have been to wide in the boards. If you mean that where the tape is you can see a bulge then...
Looks like you'd be better using a bonding agent. 2 different ratios is just doing what it says on the tin and should ensure that you get a bit longer to work with your materials in my humble opinion of course.
Most colleges like you to have a level 3 so you can deliver at that level, if you've only got level 2 thats all you can teach.
Level 3 NVQ's are aimed at supervisors level.
Screw some timber batons through the undamged plasterboard then you can screw the new piece of board onto them. I also find it easier to cut the p/board for the patch first, hold over the hole and mark round it then cut the ceiling/wall board to fit. I know it sounds the wrong way round but it's...
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