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If your wanting plain run make your own template and run some, at least that way you'll get exactly what you want. Might be an idea to try any fibrous shops near you or phone round to see what they've got.

I've seen this done loads and all I think it is from the pic's is that the plasters not been applied thick enough and or not allowed to pull in enough before 2nd coating or flattening off. I was not implying that you had gone for the cheapest quote but what people do not think about is the...

Not a thing mate honest LOL We have a fair bit of contact with S&J reps at work and I'm just wanting to prove to them that us spreads dont just base everything on price. All the lads and lasses get the chance to handle a centenary and they all say how good it feels etc. Would it be worth...

New one, if you could get one

Dont get caught taking away rubbish lads, could cost you and customer can both be fined without the proper license >:(

How much would you guys & Gals be prepared to pay for a good skimming trowel? I mean of an exceptionally good standard similar to the old tyzack centenary, I know it all depends on preference but lets work on a 13" stainless.

Should be a gap 3 to 5mm between the boards to allow plaster to push through and strengthen the joint. If you mean that you can see a thin line of plaster that looks like it is sagging down the gaps may have been to wide in the boards. If you mean that where the tape is you can see a bulge then...

You need to be working as a plasterer to get the evidence as proof mate but no need to be full time.

Looks like you'd be better using a bonding agent. 2 different ratios is just doing what it says on the tin and should ensure that you get a bit longer to work with your materials in my humble opinion of course.

Should be 1st coat 5:1 and 2nd coat 3:1

Most colleges like you to have a level 3 so you can deliver at that level, if you've only got level 2 thats all you can teach. Level 3 NVQ's are aimed at supervisors level.

Most colleges will put you through the level 3 but you will also need to do your Cert Ed, a 2 year degree course to teach plastering :-?

150m rolls - £1 each + postage pm me to sort out. Cheers Gary

Screw some timber batons through the undamged plasterboard then you can screw the new piece of board onto them. I also find it easier to cut the p/board for the patch first, hold over the hole and mark round it then cut the ceiling/wall board to fit. I know it sounds the wrong way round but it's...

You can get hessian that will do the job, you'll need to ask for the width you need

Works as a plastisiser but just use lime, lime putty is mainly used for sand & lime work

Estimated figures for quantities of sand and cement required for 100m2 of wall area. No allowance has been made for wastage. Proportion by volume Ratio of Sand – Cement 3 sand , 1 cement 3 sand , 1 cement 4 sand , 1 cement 4sand , 1 cement                    ...

1. Yes 2. No but you get a better a finish and it closes the finish of the rendering. 3. No 4. Drys to quick 5. Only use them if the area is too big for you to do, otherwise look at what your doing and break up the area in to areas you can manage but will look ok when done 6. Water and brick...

Majority of backing plasters for use in damp conditions allow the wall to breathe and stipulate that gypsum based plasters should not be used, with the exception of dri-coat, see they all want to sell their products ;D I've been around for along time now and remember the days when everybody...

Will multi stand up to the damp Church?

The damp company will specify what must be done i.e. mix/materials additives etc, they do this for the insurance and also to make you buy their materials.

Re: whats the big deal bout starting top left corn And thats why you should work right to left (if your right handed) for rendering or floating walls to compact the material on to the background. Top to bottom with skimming - If you drop any its not going on to work you've just done, and yes...

Funding is available for level 2 quals provided you haven't already got a level 2 or equivalent. Personally I would advise anybody to go for it, specially when its FREE!! You can also get your CSCS card if your working towards the NVQ, thats if any sites are still going in your neck of the woods.

Pretty sure that the building regs state expansion joints should be at a maximum of 4m but its also important to put them on the backgrounds that will move differently.

Brit standards for plastering can be picked up on ebay for about a quid.

Perfect finish = immaculate conception Satisfactory finish = good times :-[

Manufacturers state a 5:1 coat then a 3:1 which should be tacky before skimming. I always used to use a 6:1 mix but with 3 coats and a good splash in the 1st mix and I never had a problem.

2 wet trowels, bit of sand and rub against each other against a flat surface. Added advantage of cleaning 2 trowels at a time.

You lot are all p***heads, oh thats right we're plasterers LOL As for pulling in, tbh I dont find a great deal of difference, both products if apllied correctly seal the background and stop the suction but I do find that bonding agents stop the moisture from getting to the background. This is...

Its all about comfort zones, if it works for you its fine. I go back to the days before bonding agents exsisted and now I use both. Tend to use bonding agents if I need to seal the background ie on artex etc and pva on most others. Old gadge that I started with always mixed pva at 6:1 and give...

Sometimes you need to start all over again mate or you can end up compromising yourself and the quality of the work you do.

Use as a normal backing plaster but dont rub up, sponge off when going off and use the fat to trowel up with.

1) Board adhesive is fine but pva the back of coving first and also screw to wall then fill. 2) Use a joint rule or a trowel blade will do, fill the gap and use the rule to cut off surplus. Make sure that the rule is flat against the coving and dont allow any build up on the coving. Wash off...

Cant guarantee this but I also think that if you've got your C&G they will not accept it for your qual towards the cscs card unless you've been an indentured apprentice. Sorry if I'm wrong by the way but I'll try & check in the morning and get back to you. See below for an email received. To...

Hi Scott It all depends on you, if you've got experience etc then you could do the NVQ via the OSAT route. As to the NVQ yet again this depends on what you want out of it due to lots of units that you can pick & choose from. Best thing to do is contact a local training provider or college that...

Gives you a nice straight angle, never used a feather edge just a skimming darby and you can see the diference a mile off if the backgrounds out a bit

Try an oil stone or a diamond block to speed up the process. I think Danny sends his trowels somewhere but nothing beats using them on s&c or the final trowel to be honest.

Mmmmmmmmmmmm take it you dont like air testing then

Cant beat a good cob mate!! Brim Common now but used to live in Newbold

Nicksey, tell your Mum that the real people are from Chesterfield, oh and by the way duck when you say it ;D

Think I know you both from somewhere :-X

Heard a little rumour that they will retail for £35ish, bit steep in my eyes

Are you doing to walls next to each other? If so try doing opposite walls so your working to a firm angle. If you need to use an internal angle trowel make sure you let the skimming pull in a little. As for the external, had 1 myself, carried it round with me for approx 15 years, lost it and...

The best bet to findout who can help you is to contact CITB or CSkills who should be able to put you in contact with thenearest provider offering the OSAT assessment route. The assessor should be checking that you have been working as a plasterer for a number of years (sorry forgot the amount)...

The trunking or sheathing is to stop the plaster rotting the cable away, unless the cable as been altered I would always cover it.

Thing is Bod if he's told you to do it then you do it, mind you his spec looks like that of a scared man, talk about OTT. Personally I like the tarmac finish when I'm on a day rate LOL

Now this looks a wicked bit of kit, and yes I will be getting 1 gyprocbladerunner.co.uk/index.html

Bod thought you were telling him to scratch on with limelite or dri-coat before he direct bonded the wall. Spec for limelite says not to use gypsum based products at all. Below are extracts taken off the Tarmac website and the link is to the pdf file Limelite Backing Plasters should never be...

Bod, limelite should not come into contact with gypsum based plaster even for fixing the beads but dri-coat should be skimmed with board finish so I presume that it is ok to direct bond to with bonding compound/dry-wall adhesive.

If your going to direct bond the boards make sure that you use dri-coat and not limelite.