Plastering victorian solid walls

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cornsack

Member
Hi all,

My parents bought a nice Victorian terraced about a year ago and I've been helping renovate a room at a time when I can spare a week here or a week there.

Have done their main bedroom with much success and they are going with exposed chimney breasts in the bedrooms.

I've now started working on another bedroom but I've now noticed ezch wall sounds hollow/blown in patches across about 50% of each wall. I was originally tempted to prime and skim and hope for the best, should take the extra weight, but now I'm not sure it's worth risking, even though it's not a punters house. Looks like I'll have to hack most or maybe ALL back to brick and start again.

They are 9 inch solid walls. I have heard lots of conflicting advice what to use as the base coat. I would rather not use s&c if i can avoid it because it's a faf and I haven't got much experience with it.

I saw an experienced member on here saying that hardwall actually replaced the old renovating plaster, and the idea that using it will cause damp problem is simply not true and BG have confirmed this.

So I was thinking of hacking the old plaster off, coating all the brick with green plasprime and floating out with hardwall. Or possibly even dot and dabbing the internal walls (probably float them though to be safe)

Advice/opinions please.

If someone could tell me how to upload pictures from my phone to here I can stick them on

Thanks

Charlie
 

cornsack

Member
Worked out how to attach.

First picture is the finished bedroom. I cross battened, levelled and overboarded the old lathe ceiling, skimmed the walls, exposed the chimney breast, decorated and installed new fireplace. I did not however install the silly light up coving, that definitely wasn't my idea.

Other pictures are of the room in question
 

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zolco

Private Member
Don't use hardwall that would be the worst choice.
Use renovation plaster there is a fair few different brands out there, like limelite, or try @Bauwer prebagged products.
 

cornsack

Member
Thanks Zolco.

Only reason I'm asking is I remember seeing it being discussed in another thread and I believe it was 'superspread' saying that hardwall replaced the renovating plaster that BG used to do and they had confirmed this to him and it could be used on external walls, wether sold or cavity without issues.

But a lot of people still say no
 

zolco

Private Member
Thanks Zolco.

Only reason I'm asking is I remember seeing it being discussed in another thread and I believe it was 'superspread' saying that hardwall replaced the renovating plaster that BG used to do and they had confirmed this to him and it could be used on external walls, wether sold or cavity without issues.

But a lot of people still say no
I remember the above, still I wouldn't use material as a renovation plaster which contains gypsum. There's plenty of threads about recently about the use of modern mats in old houses
 

Pagey

Private Member
Don't use hardwall that would be the worst choice.
Use renovation plaster there is a fair few different brands out there, like limelite, or try @Bauwer prebagged products.
Why not use hardwall if no Damp present can't see it being a problem I'd probably pick hardwall if I'm honest
 

Smudger1

Well-Known Member
If no damp anywhere I'd probably dot n dab it, but if you don't fancy it bagged base coats suitable for the surfaces will do the job, I prefer s&c where practicable .
 

beader

Private Member
Dab with thermal boards if it has no cavity . MY house is 1921, upstairs is solid construction so i hacked off all external walls and dabbed with 27mm gtec boards . has made a massive difference and no issues .
 

superspread

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

My parents bought a nice Victorian terraced about a year ago and I've been helping renovate a room at a time when I can spare a week here or a week there.

Have done their main bedroom with much success and they are going with exposed chimney breasts in the bedrooms.

I've now started working on another bedroom but I've now noticed ezch wall sounds hollow/blown in patches across about 50% of each wall. I was originally tempted to prime and skim and hope for the best, should take the extra weight, but now I'm not sure it's worth risking, even though it's not a punters house. Looks like I'll have to hack most or maybe ALL back to brick and start again.

They are 9 inch solid walls. I have heard lots of conflicting advice what to use as the base coat. I would rather not use s&c if i can avoid it because it's a faf and I haven't got much experience with it.

I saw an experienced member on here saying that hardwall actually replaced the old renovating plaster, and the idea that using it will cause damp problem is simply not true and BG have confirmed this.

So I was thinking of hacking the old plaster off, coating all the brick with green plasprime and floating out with hardwall. Or possibly even dot and dabbing the internal walls (probably float them though to be safe)

Advice/opinions please.

If someone could tell me how to upload pictures from my phone to here I can stick them on

Thanks

Charlie
If your not going for the traditional sand and lime course stuff , hardwall would be perfect , it's what I use all the time , I've only been plastering 35 years :coffe:
 

cornsack

Member
Cheers for the feedback boys. Think I'll float with hardwall, need the practice anyway, hardly come across any floating jobs these days, everyone always sticking or tacking.

Just out of interest what are those limelite, etc renovating plasters like to use and where do you even get em? Do they mix up, spread, rule and go off like hardwall or s&c? Or do they take a long time to go off because of lime?
 

Squarehead

Well-Known Member
Aware of porosity/low suction, but I guess it's all down to the experience you have with it. I stopped using hardwall on Victorian after few jobs with hairlines 15 years ago. Used bonding ever since and no probs, just trust it more, even though as you say pagey it's not nice to work with compared to hw. Zolco - Oxford job didn't come off but met Alex at bauwer other day, genuine guy, great product. Already put another lead my way. Cornsack (great name btw) bauwer rules off beautifully, can put some serious thickness on as so light. Can't skim same day, has to be next day. Finish takes a day in my experience too before final trowel.
 
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