Insulating Victorian walls

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Jbeesy718

Active Member
Hi after a bit of advise
I want to try and insulate the downstairs external walls of my Victorian house it has solid wall construction brick exterior which we get a bit of condensation on in the winter months not a lot just the odd bit behind a side board and storage box. I’m thinking maybe gypliner some insulated plasterboard in front of the external wall but I’m unsure if I’ll create more problems by creating a cavity anyone have any experience doing this or could point me in the right direction of someone who would know. Thanks.
 

bobski

Well-Known Member

Bricktop

Well-Known Member
Hi after a bit of advise
I want to try and insulate the downstairs external walls of my Victorian house it has solid wall construction brick exterior which we get a bit of condensation on in the winter months not a lot just the odd bit behind a side board and storage box. I’m thinking maybe gypliner some insulated plasterboard in front of the external wall but I’m unsure if I’ll create more problems by creating a cavity anyone have any experience doing this or could point me in the right direction of someone who would know. Thanks.
The insulated studs minimise cold bridging. You could do the same with normal studs but would require an overlay of PIR board.
 

Dollar

Well-Known Member
Hi after a bit of advise
I want to try and insulate the downstairs external walls of my Victorian house it has solid wall construction brick exterior which we get a bit of condensation on in the winter months not a lot just the odd bit behind a side board and storage box. I’m thinking maybe gypliner some insulated plasterboard in front of the external wall but I’m unsure if I’ll create more problems by creating a cavity anyone have any experience doing this or could point me in the right direction of someone who would know. Thanks.
Forget it you loose too much room IMO all plaster off skirting sockets need to be brought forward window reveals will be tricky no depth on frames , poss loss of coving


Your problem is cold air meeting the warm
Your welcome
 

tapit

Well-Known Member
insulation to walls, silver tape to joins. battens across insulation then plasterboard screwed to battens.
 

theshed

Active Member
If you can use Instastick foam and bond the insulated board directly to the existing
I used Instastick to fix 25mm celotex then stuck 12.5mm over the top on my house. It is now so cheap to heat. Wickes cheapest 25mm celotex type insulation is £23 +£8 for plasterboard . Bargain and thats without the 10% trade discount.
 

Jbeesy718

Active Member
Forget it you loose too much room IMO all plaster off skirting sockets need to be brought forward window reveals will be tricky no depth on frames , poss loss of coving


Your problem is cold air meeting the warm
Your welcome
Seen these paints another brand claiming to do the same. Have you experience with the paint or just a recommendation? Seems to good to be true to me?‍♂️
 

Jbeesy718

Active Member
The insulated studs minimise cold bridging. You could do the same with normal studs but would require an overlay of PIR board.
Thanks going to look into iwi.
No gypliner unless you have a massive house

D + D insulated plasterboard, the more expensive ones perform way better. Although the basic still does a job.

Wickes' version - around £40 right now - does a bloody good job for the thickness.


House isn’t massive but could lose 70mm either side of it helped with efficiency of the house and reduce the possibility of condensation. Just be worried about moisture between the pir and brick wall as there won’t be any ventilation.
 

Jbeesy718

Active Member
I used Instastick to fix 25mm celotex then stuck 12.5mm over the top on my house. It is now so cheap to heat. Wickes cheapest 25mm celotex type insulation is £23 +£8 for plasterboard . Bargain and thats without the 10% trade discount.
Did you do this on your own house? Or know if it’s resolved the issue? Just a little concerned moisture could form between the pir and brick wall, run down and cause damp at floor level.
 

Dollar

Well-Known Member
Seen these paints another brand claiming to do the same. Have you experience with the paint or just a recommendation? Seems to good to be true to me?‍♂️
Yes have had some renter with issue cottage
Solid walls same mould near furniture
but works put your hand on wall when dry & then untreated area you will get how it works


The stuff dries a bit orange peel but can decorate over with your choice
Worth a punt @ £70 on your situation

your welcome
 

Dollar

Well-Known Member
My own house, we had damp issues. It had been injected but that's a waste ot time as any guarantee is not worth a w@nk.
Yes likely external ground too high & bridging & either or cavity full or solid construction
Rising damp is another unicorn

your welcome
 

Jbeesy718

Active Member
Yes have had some renter with issue cottage
Solid walls same mould near furniture
but works put your hand on wall when dry & then untreated area you will get how it works


The stuff dries a bit orange peel but can decorate over with your choice
Worth a punt @ £70 on your situation

your welcome
Think the previous owners have used this upstairs in the master bed when I stripped the paper it looked like orange peel. Thought it was an oil based paint like zinsser so I ran over it with a drywall sander Thinking the paint might not take properly‍♂️
 

bobski

Well-Known Member
Thanks going to look into iwi.

House isn’t massive but could lose 70mm either side of it helped with efficiency of the house and reduce the possibility of condensation. Just be worried about moisture between the pir and brick wall as there won’t be any ventilation.

I wouldn't worry so much about condensation.
The board (insulation) slows down the transfer so massively decreases the chances.

If you have moisture present (check with meter/tester now) through possible damp (rising or penetrating) obviously address that first and make sure you're bone dry before committing to the board.
 

jamesthefirst

Private Member
Remember that stuff plasteronestop were sponsoring that was troweled on about 1mmm and had plastic bead technology? You had to go on a training course.
 

FreeD

Private Member
I wouldn't worry so much about condensation.
The board (insulation) slows down the transfer so massively decreases the chances.

If you have moisture present (check with meter/tester now) through possible damp (rising or penetrating) obviously address that first and make sure you're bone dry before committing to the board.

Or put a damp proof membrane on first
 

madmonk

Private Member
Hack it all off delta membrane fixwed to brickwork then gypliner with 25mm celotex inbetween then duplex plaster boards
 
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