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Would you change your boiler yourself? Or totally rewire the house ? I wouldn't so why think that plastering basically a refurb is any different skill wise ?get a bloody plasterer in!!


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yep rewired our place..... well jane did... did 99% of the chippy work... repaired and repaired all the parquet flooring...

:D
 
Hey,

Thanks for looking.

So I've got myself into a bit of a mess with a property I'm developing. We managed to buy a house to develop with my GF and her Dad, but costs are quickly adding up and unfortunately we can't afford all the trades to come and do this stuff for us.

Basically, I want to try and get at least some of the plastering sorted myself (probably not the skim) but experience is lacking. Hopefully you guys can take a look at the stuff below and give me some advise:

  • Salts in the brick
When we managed to get the wall paper off the wall we found that there was damp half way up the wall (Pics: https://imgur.com/a/JgBUS). We first thought that it was raising damp, but we got a damp survey and they said it was hygroscopic salts in the brick pulling moisture out of the air and into the plaster. They recommended using a tanking slurry on the wall to stop it, but I've read on some forums that you can just use 50/50 water and vinegar with a few drops of washing up liquid in it to neutralise the salts. Is that true? If not what should I use on it?

We also have a few spots of Efflorescence, would that be treated the same way? We've had a full damp course done anyway since it needed doing in other areas.

  • Dot and Dab
We're going to be dot and dabbing the house, basically all the ground floor and some upstairs (mainly patching upstairs). We're going to use 9.5mm stuff for a ceiling (screwed to beams), but weren't sure on weather to use 12.5mm on the walls - does it make that much difference? Also any tips on getting the sheets level would be great.

We've got a wall where an old chimney stack used to be, and it's covered it soot. I've heard that the soot will eventually make it's way through the adhesive and stain yellow on the other side - what do you guys suggest? Batton the wall out so that the soot won't soak through?



Any advise for a total novice would be great (I ain't giving up my day job)!

Cheers,

Martin

Martin please hear what people are saying..

I've just done one that sounds exactly like your situation..

The fella wanted to 'have a go' to save money, he extended his house front, back & sites builders got it all up and water tight in 6-7 weeks, then it was over to him...

He had to board & dab all the new extensions, a year down the line and he was still at it! He was doing it at night & weekends etc, then he finally got to a point where he was close to finishing and called a plasterer in to just skim...

Every socket was cut way to big, the dabbing was atrocious and nowhere near level, it wouldn't have been upto fire regs so he's risking his only family in the event of a fire, it took us double the time it would have taken us to skim because we had to put right all the mistakes, which of course cost him double as well.

All this was going on when he had 3 kids in the house 1 of which was a new born!

If the boarding & dabbing isn't done properly long and short of it is it won't last, you'll be constantly filling round sockets & where boards are flapping,

It will take you an age especially if you are only on it part time, it won't be up to regulations, you won't be happy with the substandard finish..


Couple of questions for you..


How much do you value your time?
Have you got a mortgage on the house? (Every month you take doing the property will cost)
 
And I thought you were on our side Danny [emoji15]


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To be fair a diyer will always be a diyer and you are not going to change that :D I will have crack at doing anything myself then I will make a decision whether I want to do it again :)

I build kit cars but still pay someone else to service our every day cars :D
 
Nice to see a fellow pie eater on the forum.. a mate of mine did this a few years ago his brother and dad kept telling him to get me in but he ploughed on by himself . To cut a long story short it took him months to board and dab it and he paid more in mortgage payments that the labour would have been to get us in and he still ended up paying us to finish the job. Also I wouldn't use anything less that 12.5 mm boards on the ceilings if they have been stripped back to the beams for fire resistance more than anything. I'm not pitching for the job by the way I'm too busy but Wigan is the plastering capital of the north-west, I swear everyone is a plasterer In Wigan I'd just get some one in room by room you'll pay more overall but it will be easier to manage the costs
 
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