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i dunno but we just had the whole house removed of this stuff and it was 5 days work in total. an absolute nightmare. the bricks were mostly ok but the odd face would come off. from the fragments it's basically a concrete with 2-4mm aggregate and texture appears to be cement slapped on like...

this guy did a reflective piece after he mashed his hand up

side light always shows up defects but this looks terrible for daylight. when it's not up to scratch it doesn't make that much difference how bad it is if it has to be redone or vacate the room to sand + fill the crap out of it

it sounds like a type of asbestos. probably as nasty!

Essentially don't. you are looking at a solution rather than the problem.chemical DPC is expensive, never considers the underlying cause = usless and likely to be damaging to old properties.

just looking….there is a method for repairing movement cracks from weber: https://www.uk.weber/weber-guides-you-through-repairing-fine-cracks-monocouche-render

Nah there’s no official requirement with non combustibles just stove guidance. The HETAS guy sourced an appropriate burner with back flue which pushes it forward 300mm from the back wall. While not ideal size . With a stove fan to improve circulation it works very well

Yes, exposed bricks on inside the chamber but for the back. I used a 20mm vermiculite board fas an insulator as the back chimney wall single skin = heatloss outside.. Stuck to the back bricks with fire grade adhesive and sprayed black with stove paint. I did think about doing the inside but...

Hempcrete is a great material for garden rooms. You need much reduced amount of timber for load bearing the roof and will need some sheet material for the temporary shuttering which is moved around as you construct (can be old damaged boards) Completely fireproof and at the right thickness...

ha. The top coat is marble flour + lime which gives this colouring. I since finished it with claypaint which is also heat resistant.

Lime putty based coat is prefect option for fireplaces. It tolerates heat and you can finish with a very fine plaster for very little material costs. My 1930s fireplace had a 70s treatment with a brick heath which was soaking due to a cement and DPM. I took it back down below the floor level...

That’s how long it takes going up and down the hills

another alternative is to use a product like diathonite or another insulating plaster. I've used it to fill in pretty hefty holes up to 60mm depth - can apply two coats to make it even thicker. Very east to use

you can dub out holes - thoroughly wet the dipped areas and fill with course lime mortar with some stones.

How thick is it? I would just wet it well, harl it and then build up with a specified lime system. A lime supplier would be able to give you a spec given the thickness and estimate the number of tubs of material for a palette delivery a fairly standard spec is 3mm harling, 15ml haired mortar...

you don't want a semi around caustic material :D

milk is actually acidic PH 6.7 to 6.9. Plaster of paris is close to neutral so it's likely the small amount of additives to products like multifinish that make them irritant. Gypsum in the eye is much less concerning than a caustic substance like hydrated lime which is found in modern renders...

That building looks in great condition perfectly in tune with its surroundings. Good overhangs for weather protection too. It looks as if the anex closest to the camera is a more recent addition? Would be a very sad day to cover it or Flat characterless EWI.

how was the cavity confirmed. i'm a bit confused with the brick - it's a flemish bond in the last picture suggesting the base might be solid wall, There are a number ot mixed type houses built late 1920-1930s which had cavity ground floor / solid upper floor or vice versa with the top floor...

I had similar situation [DIY renovating old house] -the walls had all sort of patches of lime, painted artex (with asbestos so couldn't easily remove) and i'd rebuilt a corner window lintel using diathonite as an insulating render on the thermal bridge - so quite challenging suction variability...

Picture 3 looks like rolled on artex or artex like product in which case possibly contains asbestos (which has since been skimmed over). I'd avoid making dust until you are sure.

this was my thought. quickest fix is to keep the heating running constantly and make sure there are no cold radiators. Sell it in summer

yes i know it's not rising damp. more a general principle of invetigation rather than assumptionsFrom the follow on information there's likely several contributing factors.

tell them you consent for the images to be uploaded to checkatrade as exemplars of their work

my advice is don't do anything on the back of a 'i reckon it's x' response. We have the tools and means to diagnose damp and i dread to think the millions of wasted pounds in the uk spent on 'solutions' when a diagnosis have never been made. I've heard of walls having 10x damp proof...

PVA or not doesn’t explain the poor finish.

sounds like you need to watch casanova plasterer Kirk Giordano . He's got plenty of videos on 'stucco' on wood with mesh. Hydrated Lime is mainly used to improve workability similar to plasticiser or fairy liquid. Some info on mixing your own here

ah moisture + gypsum covered in lime doesn't sound good.

if it's possible for the rain to travel over 18 inches through the flint wall? Yes walls repeatedly hit by wind driven rain can eventually transmit moisture to the inside which is why cavity were first introduced around costal areas and islands. If it happened after just one episode then...

What you have is a unventilated box. Any moisture from within the room /occupancy will increase the relative humidity. Get a cheap logging humidity sensor to see what you are dealing...

Had recent experience with window people. They were talking so much s**t and average home owner would probably accept it if said with confidence. Clearly there is a specific defect at the window detail . Common problem is drip from the edge of the sill from the window run off or here it looks...

i installed my own nest - had to disable and cross wire the existing 1970s kenwood thermostat. 1st nest would cack up and loose connection - i double checked everthing before deciding the unit must be fauly so sent it back. Replacement has worked flawlesslessly. Useful for unprediable work...

The 1 meter gypsum is almost certainly 'damp proofing' that needs to come off - do a little test to see what's behind. The surface of lime is often quite crumbly/dusty and needs stabilising. Clay paints are the best for external walls and a watered down clay plaint will stabilise the lime before...

recommendation is to test more than one place as the mixing of the asbestos fibres was often uneven so like covid-19 - a single negative test is not always useful.

yep, artex should always be considered asbestos until tested negative in a few places. artex stoped including it 1985 (but supplies were not recalled so abesetos versions were still on sale for years aferwards).

He mentioned 'specialist hardwall' - hardwall is speced for masonary background not 'matted' so a complete contradication. "manufacturer specifications, this guarantees the quality of the work." I would ask who the manufacurer so that you can send this to them to check if they agree that it...

this sounds like complete bollix the only purpose of lining paper is to be able to paint or wall paper on less than perfect walls in the hope that it covers up. It is just like a primer wall paper. How did he establish this was 'matted'?

It's basically a over reaction of the blood vessels in the finger/toes - cold can set them off and they clamp up causing pale , numb fingers which they start throbbing and red when the blood returns. Keeping hands warm in winter essential but you can take a daily tablet to keep the blood vessels...

this website is concise summary of the construction methods in use by era. https://fet.uwe.ac.uk/conweb/house_ages/period/print.htm 1930 was transitional - mostly cavity, a lot of gauged lime with gypsum or portland to 'speed up' the set. Some causes of crumbling

Cold bridge is absolute nonsense. Just trying to bamboozle. A cold bridge is where you have a cavity/insulating air gap and there is a building element or defect which causes a solid path across the cavity from inside to out. A wall tie is a very small cold bridge as it will transmits heat...

I think the most reasonable view is that it's still an area of uncertainty. If you read Hot Mixed Lime and Traditional Mortars by Nigel Copsey it's clear that the word 'breathable' is not sufficient. Traditional hot lime mortar and mixes were often mixed with crushed lime stone and the result...

I wouldn't worry too much about multifinishon internal walls but lime putty for external walls + clay paint. Or silicate might be ok. Lime creates a buffer for moisture which is why you dont want to seal it all up with a modern paint. Depending how your ventilation is you might find black...

Iceland are pretty much able to test and contain their population.

You need to address the damp problems before sealing it up. Inner cavity wall should be dry so either penetrating or humidity but also early cavity walls had nasty things like rat trap bonds instead of wall ties and so need to treat them more like a solid wall.

What was the purpose of the DPM? Existing damp problems? Seems like a bad idea to put a plastic bag around a room which of course will trap moisture. Do you have ventilation that room?

is this the reflection of the building in a ripping pool ?

now that is a practical idea for our times

We had this very odd square patch of damp with salts precipitating around it and through the thick textured wall paper. \ After stripping the wall paper i found it was a perfect square of damp gypsum - the rest of the wall is some sort of sand and cement render. I dug it out - about 10cm of...

Yes, it was a concern but in practice the stove is awesome and makes the room very cosy.Certainly a lot better than the old open fire in which the heat was sucked out of the chimney. I put a 20mm vermiculite back to it so that most of the heat goes into the bricks or the room and thermal mass...