Lime harl

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dh7626

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Hi all
I hope you can advice
This wall was batoned and plastered but the plaster was in need of replacing. Once removed the old plaster was revealed and was mostly falling off so I removed the loose and am left with basically a mud wall must be about a foot deep and separates from my neighbours so can’t be removed.
I need to line plaster it.
I want the brick at the bottom left exposed but the plaster will have to be deep in parts.
Question is:
Thick lime mortar or build it out with another material first?
Thanks in advance
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Thanks, it’s a stone and timber structure house Devon/Cornwall border but has brick laid onto stone from 2 thirds up.
The mud wall seems to be sat on the top of the top level brick up to the roof beams, it doesn’t look to be supporting any sort of weight (luckily) and must of been a dividing wall.
How would you get the wideboy to sit tight to the mud wall which is uneven and loose if dug at?
Thanks
 
Hi all
I hope you can advice
This wall was batoned and plastered but the plaster was in need of replacing. Once removed the old plaster was revealed and was mostly falling off so I removed the loose and am left with basically a mud wall must be about a foot deep and separates from my neighbours so can’t be removed.
I need to line plaster it.
I want the brick at the bottom left exposed but the plaster will have to be deep in parts.
Question is:
Thick lime mortar or build it out with another material first?
Thanks in advance View attachment 63536View attachment 63536View attachment 63537View attachment 63537View attachment 63536

How thick is it? I would just wet it well, harl it and then build up with a specified lime system. A lime supplier would be able to give you a spec given the thickness and estimate the number of tubs of material for a palette delivery

a fairly standard spec is 3mm harling, 15ml haired mortar scratch, 10mm float hairless mortar and then 2-3ml of fine plaster finish.
I would also embed a fibreglass mesh if very thick.

You can use plastic stop beads or stainless steel above the brick or just attach a temporary batten to the brick for a less formal stop.
 
There’s two saucer sized dips about 10cm deep, could I damp them and standard mortar them first? Is there need for that or use the lime
 
There’s two saucer sized dips about 10cm deep, could I damp them and standard mortar them first? Is there need for that or use the lime
you can dub out holes - thoroughly wet the dipped areas and fill with course lime mortar with some stones.
 
you can dub out holes - thoroughly wet the dipped areas and fill with course lime mortar with some stones.

another alternative is to use a product like diathonite or another insulating plaster. I've used it to fill in pretty hefty holes up to 60mm depth - can apply two coats to make it even thicker.
Very east to use
 
another alternative is to use a product like diathonite or another insulating plaster. I've used it to fill in pretty hefty holes up to 60mm depth - can apply two coats to make it even thicker.
Very east to use
Thanks for your help and advice.
I’ll have a go, this could go terribly wrong!!
 
Okay, would that be a bought lime primer? Brand? I’ve never seen that in my research.
brush application ?
Would that be a lime and water wash?
 
it's not easy to tell from a picture,
it's the "it's a mud wall" comment that sounds worrying to me.

you should definately get someone out to look at it in person
 
you might be best to contact these for some info about your wall, it probably wants stabilising with rods,
also after looking at the picture more closely it looks to me that the bottom part of the wall above the brick
wouldn't have enough depth for a lime plaster to adhere to it.

 
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