Weber OCR
- Thread starter Rigsby
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plasterjfe
Private Member
just feel your way john
its easy gear to work with you will suss it in no time - water settings differ from machine to machine i find so just start hi and lower it with no hose until you can see it looks decent then bang your hose on. we usually start the pump at 300 and then turn the water down from there.
its easy gear to work with you will suss it in no time - water settings differ from machine to machine i find so just start hi and lower it with no hose until you can see it looks decent then bang your hose on. we usually start the pump at 300 and then turn the water down from there.
User___removed
Well-Known Member
wots weber ocr like to use.? do u use it like s&c,as in put on,rule,float then sponge?
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
I had sprayed once a small area but too stiff and it clogged at the last hurdle. I knew it was too stiff but would the others listen? Being a small area I let it happen to prove my point.
Nice stuff to use by hand. Going to try CPI as well but I don't expect it to be creamy as OCR. Just don.t want to put my money Webers way if I can help it.
Nice stuff to use by hand. Going to try CPI as well but I don't expect it to be creamy as OCR. Just don.t want to put my money Webers way if I can help it.
plasterjfe
Private Member
by parmurex then riggers there are a few places up there you can get it eh ?
User___removed
Well-Known Member
i`ve used cpi a few times now rigsby and its really creamy.i`m finding it alot harder to float than standard s&c.sand down in the southwest is decent to float so switching to cpi gear is a bit of a shocker.its taking alot longer to float due to it being so fatty.
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
This is surprising? Curriers vid of his dad spraying made it look sharp. Creamy is ok and our sand is sharp, Webers ocr is like using building sand in comparison.
The sample CPI stuff set hard and was well waterproof as a scratch coat anyone else found this? What is their High Bond like comparing it to rend-aid?
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Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Like off the shelf? Thought it was direct order and get through Travis Perkins. Is Paramurex their ocr equivalent?
User___removed
Well-Known Member
do u mesh first coat rigsby,then spray 2nd coat straight after?(ocr)
User___removed
Well-Known Member
another guy said he mesh`s first pass then 2nd straight over same day.
User___removed
Well-Known Member
although everyone has gone mesh mad if you ask me.if it`s straight over new block why bother
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
All my work is mostly refurb so would be rend-aid then ocr. Always fully meshed the rend-aid and stress patches in the ocr but we are trying the opposite on this job. 3-4mm of rend-aid with stress patches at 45 degrees and 10mm beads on a 2mm bed of rend-aid giving 11mm-12mm of ocr to spray. Put a first spread on then fully mesh then second pass.
Never done it this way before but I am thinking the rend-aid is thin and pliable so it is the more thicker and more solid coat that needs the reinforcement? Besides those idiots at weber told me to do full mesh in the rend-aid and stress in the ocr then the day after I did that and mentioned it the Caribean cat who told me to do it that way he then de-nighed it and told me to stress patch the rend-aid and fully mesh the ocr? So you are damned whichever way you do it.
Never done it this way before but I am thinking the rend-aid is thin and pliable so it is the more thicker and more solid coat that needs the reinforcement? Besides those idiots at weber told me to do full mesh in the rend-aid and stress in the ocr then the day after I did that and mentioned it the Caribean cat who told me to do it that way he then de-nighed it and told me to stress patch the rend-aid and fully mesh the ocr? So you are damned whichever way you do it.
johniosaif
Private Member
So you rendaid existing render or straight on to brickwork, what's costs in comparison to normal two coat sand/cement and the pros and cons ?
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Always hack off. I offer both. One as a traditional method done in the old way and then the other as a full rendering system with the advantages of polymers, mesh and expansion joints etc. I prefer the manufactured renders because they are easier but most go for the cheaper sand and cement and hope.
johniosaif
Private Member
Modern render is very expensive, we need a to one bag type of solution, 20 kg bags or 25 ate a joke for rendering
plasterjfe
Private Member
silo
plasterjfe
Private Member
encon leeds have it so do lumms or lumbs whatever they called just get it delivered to your place. when you done a hack off and the brickwork may be disturbed a little you can mix it with lankolatex to polymerfy it for your scratch coating - no need to rendaid then.
then top how your client wants mono or plain
plasterjfe
Private Member
no
it can be used as a pre coat onto sound paint if you wish to follow with a different finish but rendaid is a pure prep/slurry/key coat not a base coat and its a kind of sbr latex polymer cement blend where as parinter is mostly lime based. Parinter aint much of a polymer either
it can be used as a pre coat onto sound paint if you wish to follow with a different finish but rendaid is a pure prep/slurry/key coat not a base coat and its a kind of sbr latex polymer cement blend where as parinter is mostly lime based. Parinter aint much of a polymer either
plasterjfe
Private Member
dunno sponk because sand and cement aint something i woulod ever ask parex about.
say it was a sound wall with sound paint you could put a scratch coat of parinter then top it with mono - I am sure thats what i read on the tech data. but personally I aint a fan of puttin heavy render over already heavy rendered walls like.
done a parinter job today 5mm thick onto sound paint will be finished with dpr 1mm
say it was a sound wall with sound paint you could put a scratch coat of parinter then top it with mono - I am sure thats what i read on the tech data. but personally I aint a fan of puttin heavy render over already heavy rendered walls like.
done a parinter job today 5mm thick onto sound paint will be finished with dpr 1mm
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Did the ocr spraying this week. Rend ais was left for over the week end with 10mm beads stuck on. On average about 10mm give or take 1mm. Sprayed at water setting of 250 on the mono jet at about a 5mm first pass, flatten with a spat and bed Webers 4mm mesh into it. Go over again with a second pass and rule with a serrated rule then flatten with a spat.
Got it bang on flat and smooth. Temp was about 9-10c with a light breeze on the side of this semi doing the top half all round and about 40m2 in total.
Was impressed on how creamy it was and how easy it ruled and flattened with the spat.
Had a lunch then it was ready to start rubbing up. Being a bit breezy on the side that was going off first but i noticed the top was dry and the bottom was still quite wet on a 2.4m high wall. Found this to be the case on all 3 sides and it seems to wet one minute and then to set the next but at the end of the day all was nicely flattened with just a couple of small area which had dried for some reason before the rest. Then on final inspection we found a horizontal crack on the front but managed to rub it in. Next morning 5 horizontal cracks about 150mm long all near one another. Gutted! Thought being fully meshed I wouldn't have this problem.
Yesterday I sprayed the bottom half being 3m deep. Seemed to be a bit thicker this time (10mm+) but sprayed well except for some reason 2 minutes into spraying it turned to water. Lowered the water setting a bit and it was to stiff so put it back to 250 and it went ok? The day was colder maybe 7c overcast and no breeze. It took allday to go off. Got it rubbed up by 6pm and was pleased with the finish but being a tad thicker and not drying but setting I thought it might crack?
Turned up this morning after a night of light drizzle and there was one 100mm crack on a pier which was maybe 10-12mm thick.
I am thinking the upper lift cracks was either shrinkage with the breeze we had on that side or being wet and thick (maybe up to 12mm) it was tearing under it's own weight?
The bottom was still green this morning so I am assuming tearing under its own weight.
So for my first attempt at spraying ocr (well 2nd) I was impressed with how nice it sprayed but do think ocr is more like a building sand rather than rendering sand mixed with lime and sbr?. Maybe to fine to be a render? Only time will tell. I was disapointed with the cracks though especially with me going to the trouble of fully meshing it. Maybe if I hadn't there would have been more or deeper cracks?
The lads was impressed with the gear and want to do more flat renders with the monojet. I am going to try the other renders though. Although webers ocr is certainly nice to spray and rule the cracking spoilt it for me. I am going to use CPI and SAS's for comparison.
Anyone on here had cracking issues with any of the ocr's or CPI, SAS? On price CPI is cheaper and SAS is more expensive with Envirowall being priced out at £10.50 a bag for their render.
Got it bang on flat and smooth. Temp was about 9-10c with a light breeze on the side of this semi doing the top half all round and about 40m2 in total.
Was impressed on how creamy it was and how easy it ruled and flattened with the spat.
Had a lunch then it was ready to start rubbing up. Being a bit breezy on the side that was going off first but i noticed the top was dry and the bottom was still quite wet on a 2.4m high wall. Found this to be the case on all 3 sides and it seems to wet one minute and then to set the next but at the end of the day all was nicely flattened with just a couple of small area which had dried for some reason before the rest. Then on final inspection we found a horizontal crack on the front but managed to rub it in. Next morning 5 horizontal cracks about 150mm long all near one another. Gutted! Thought being fully meshed I wouldn't have this problem.
Yesterday I sprayed the bottom half being 3m deep. Seemed to be a bit thicker this time (10mm+) but sprayed well except for some reason 2 minutes into spraying it turned to water. Lowered the water setting a bit and it was to stiff so put it back to 250 and it went ok? The day was colder maybe 7c overcast and no breeze. It took allday to go off. Got it rubbed up by 6pm and was pleased with the finish but being a tad thicker and not drying but setting I thought it might crack?
Turned up this morning after a night of light drizzle and there was one 100mm crack on a pier which was maybe 10-12mm thick.
I am thinking the upper lift cracks was either shrinkage with the breeze we had on that side or being wet and thick (maybe up to 12mm) it was tearing under it's own weight?
The bottom was still green this morning so I am assuming tearing under its own weight.
So for my first attempt at spraying ocr (well 2nd) I was impressed with how nice it sprayed but do think ocr is more like a building sand rather than rendering sand mixed with lime and sbr?. Maybe to fine to be a render? Only time will tell. I was disapointed with the cracks though especially with me going to the trouble of fully meshing it. Maybe if I hadn't there would have been more or deeper cracks?
The lads was impressed with the gear and want to do more flat renders with the monojet. I am going to try the other renders though. Although webers ocr is certainly nice to spray and rule the cracking spoilt it for me. I am going to use CPI and SAS's for comparison.
Anyone on here had cracking issues with any of the ocr's or CPI, SAS? On price CPI is cheaper and SAS is more expensive with Envirowall being priced out at £10.50 a bag for their render.
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Rigsby, A good way to re fill the cracks is to mix a bit of gear late in the evening and pop it in a plastic bag and leave it somewhere cool overnight. Use that gear next day for your repairs. you need to stuff a good 5-10mm in the repair and pack it flush so maybe make the crack worse before you make it better. Lightly drag a damp sponge over the area to get the same texture. It saves time doing 2 visits and makes a very good repair. I do the same with mono also, but with no sponge obviously
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Thanks Ian for that. I did cut it out to a V down to the mesh without tearing it. I put sbr into the crack to avoid initial shrinkage and for adhesion.
I am not surprised it cracked. 10mm in virtually one go and a bit wetter than hand applied I would imagine there is an issue with the weight of the water wanting to make it sag and cause a tear. As said it seems more like a building sand than a sharp rendering sand but I was surprised how it didn't sag on the wall when wet.
In the warmer months would putting it in the fridge be ok overnight?
I doesn't look good when you sell to the customer polymer modified renders with anti crack mesh installed and the next day you are filling in cracks? But I have had the same with s&c when it has been a bit thick and not setting because of the damp or cold or when it is been a bit on the thick side but dried a bit to quick.
I wouldn't fancy my chances with ocr on a summers day. I would have to keep it cover up as soon as it is on.
Worrying!
I am not surprised it cracked. 10mm in virtually one go and a bit wetter than hand applied I would imagine there is an issue with the weight of the water wanting to make it sag and cause a tear. As said it seems more like a building sand than a sharp rendering sand but I was surprised how it didn't sag on the wall when wet.
In the warmer months would putting it in the fridge be ok overnight?
I doesn't look good when you sell to the customer polymer modified renders with anti crack mesh installed and the next day you are filling in cracks? But I have had the same with s&c when it has been a bit thick and not setting because of the damp or cold or when it is been a bit on the thick side but dried a bit to quick.
I wouldn't fancy my chances with ocr on a summers day. I would have to keep it cover up as soon as it is on.
Worrying!
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User___removed
Well-Known Member
i have just completed a re- render job using cpi rigs.i have also had a few issue`s with small cracks.as you said,i can see it being a massive issue in the summer months with the milder weather,and direct sunlight on it.i had to run a small float over the cracks the next day,causing the grit in the sand to scare the wall slightly.
is that enviro gear at 10.50 a ocr type of gear or s&c? bloody steep that
is that enviro gear at 10.50 a ocr type of gear or s&c? bloody steep that
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
yes Bobby was it sprayed?
So much for modern renders? polymers and meshed and it still cracks wtf?
I really do think if I hadn't had meshed it the cracks would have been worse.
The Envirowall stuff is there pre rend for mono but also there float coat. Grittier than weber and very sticky on the trowel. I don,t think it would rub up that easy but I have a few bags left over so I am going to do a bay with it. I think it relies on a sponge float more than a plastic float. Defo two coat gear.
So much for modern renders? polymers and meshed and it still cracks wtf?
I really do think if I hadn't had meshed it the cracks would have been worse.
The Envirowall stuff is there pre rend for mono but also there float coat. Grittier than weber and very sticky on the trowel. I don,t think it would rub up that easy but I have a few bags left over so I am going to do a bay with it. I think it relies on a sponge float more than a plastic float. Defo two coat gear.
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