Shallow studwork (15mm) for plasterboard?

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gooty

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As I walk up my stairs, the wall on the left is an external one that is always in the shade.
The plaster was shot and mold kept returning due to the constant cold.
After removing the old plaster, I found that the cement between the bricks was 99% sand and so I have removed it all and repointed the bricks. None of the bricks were laid level and they go in/out by 20mm in places.
I have plastered before, but this is a very large area in a narrow space with a height that requires a platform of some sort.

My idea was to use shallow wood studwork instead (ideally 15mm thick) with 12mm plasterboard. This way it will meet the edge of the stairs at the correct distance of the old plaster/render. I guess I'd also have to use plastic packing behind the studwork to correct the wonky brickwork.

I've never seen thin wood studwork used like this before, so would like to know if it could be done? Is there any metal C stud 15mm thick? If it can be done, is there a type of plasterboard best used to stop mold returning?

Any advice will be much appreciated
 
thanks.
Is there a specific type of plasterboard that i should use for a cold damp external wall?
Any specific type of insulation between wall/plasterboard?
 
Last edited:
thanks.
Is there a specific type of plasterboard that i should use for a cold damp external wall?
Any specific type of insulation between wall/plasterboard?
Get them ones on top if you screwing on to stud
20211218_112917.jpg
 
Interesting solution that. Query though - BG says fix to brick work with gypsum product but surely the condensation damp through the brickwork would cause anything gypsum to eventually fail ? - I'd use a more expensive cement tile adhesive
Metal stud = thermal bridging, and cokd lines in the boards.

What about just sticking insulated thermaline board directly to the wall, levelling it out with a cement based adhesive?
 
Interesting solution that. Query though - BG says fix to brick work with gypsum product but surely the condensation damp through the brickwork would cause anything gypsum to eventually fail ? - I'd use a more expensive cement tile adhesive
Metal stud = thermal bridging, and cokd lines in the boards.

What about just sticking insulated thermaline board directly to the wall, levelling it out with a cement based adhesive?
Fair point. Thinnest insulated board is 22nm which is 9.5mm board and the rest polystyrene (if they still make it) Haven’t seen it for years so might be 27mm minimum now. If the wall is plumb, then dry fix foam could be used to fix them, plus a secondary fixing. Know what you mean about gypsum on damp walls. If walls were sound, then use foil backed board on the mf10
 
what screws would I use to fix 12.5mm plasterboard safely to 10mm furring channel (clipped tight to wall)?

where can I order the the channel/flat clips/screws?
 
what screws would I use to fix 12.5mm plasterboard safely to 10mm furring channel (clipped tight to wall)?

where can I order the the channel/flat clips/screws?
20mm screws and run a bead of caulk on the channel for additional grip
 
Interesting solution that. Query though - BG says fix to brick work with gypsum product but surely the condensation damp through the brickwork would cause anything gypsum to eventually fail ? - I'd use a more expensive cement tile adhesive
Metal stud = thermal bridging, and cokd lines in the boards.

What about just sticking insulated thermaline board directly to the wall, levelling it out with a cement based adhesive?
With the insulation there's no ( or minimal condensation ) , did many houses before foam became viable and no known fails.
Use dab to fix toilet pans with no screws , never failed
 
Use dab to fix toilet pans with no screws , never failed :confused: Amazing you can get away with that, larger ladies tend to land heavily at a sort of glide angle - always breaking the lousy plastic lid mountings. I don't want to think what about what woulod happen if the pan tips over as they land! :frenetico:
 
Use dab to fix toilet pans with no screws , never failed :confused: Amazing you can get away with that, larger ladies tend to land heavily at a sort of glide angle - always breaking the lousy plastic lid mountings. I don't want to think what about what woulod happen if the pan tips over as they land! :frenetico:
Life is for experimenting
 
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