Plaster Disaster

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Seriously....

And we wonder why the plastering trade is going down.....

I feel for you mate must be gutted..... Where abouts are you in the world? maybe one of the lads can drop round and see it in the flesh as even though all the info you have given is great nothing betas seeing it with your own eyes...

I dont do plastering any more as my full time job... so I will defend that... to a point... if your rough your rough thats that!

I dont have a van any more but I am not rough so that wont effect me.....

The chap has had him on recommendation ... he has not done it too cheap .... whats the guy to do.... he did everything the right way and should have got a perfect finish....

time served or a courser... rough is rough. We all have our bad days but seriously??

Let us know how it goes and if your local to me.. I will personally drop round and take a look.

The general public needs educating as to what is a good finish and what is not...... maybe we need a campaign to go educating people... make up some corners that are skimmed with good clean crisp corners and march around the streets...lol

Danny
 
In my many many years on this planet i have always found that there are always two sides to every story, but this one does seem to beggar belief
 
i got 7 pages in and not one person had asked what the origional finish was like e.g. shiny, silk, flaky, distemper whatever...
that in itself beggars belief.. but i got bored at that point and if its since been mentioned then i appologise, take no notice..
 
If he did most of your house in a day, that kind of answers your question, are you sure he even PVAd anything? with waiting for PVA to go tacky before skimming theres no way youd get that amount on!

Generally a spread will plaster an average front room in 1-2 days dependant on the spread, so to do half a house... Id advise you get someone else in to do the job dude, hope you sort it out!
 
Chris W said:
i got 7 pages in and not one person had asked what the origional finish was like e.g. shiny, silk, flaky, distemper whatever...
that in itself beggars belief.. but i got bored at that point and if its since been mentioned then i appologise, take no notice..
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:rolleyes):rolleyes)

>>
Nisus said:
It's not the pva mate it's bad workmanship!!!!
Sounds like he gave everywhere a very thin coat of pva then just one coated the lot!

Was there any limewash/distemperon the ceilings or any of the walls that he did?
As this would have needed a coat of stabilising solution before pva'ing or applying a bonding agent.
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Chris W said:
i got 7 pages in and not one person had asked what the origional finish was like e.g. shiny, silk, flaky, distemper whatever...
that in itself beggars belief.. but i got bored at that point and if its since been mentioned then i appologise, take no notice..
Click to expand...


what odds would that make? either way the jobs not been done correctly, its fell off and is rough in parts.
 
Hi all,

Just to give you all an update.

This time WE pva'd the ceiling and lapped it on 4 to 1. Came back and plastered. Just about to start trowling and noticed bubbling. Plaster just peeled off with what looked like a thin coat of paint.

I've just looked back through the thread and noticed someone has mentioned about limewash. Now, we've just had a painter/decorater round tonight to have a look and he's said exactly the same thing - limewash on ceiling could be stopping it sticking.

Now, this doesn't answer all questions for the rest of the house, but it may have contributed.

Any further thoughts?

Thanks for all your responses.
 
I was wondering if any one had given thought to the substrate being skimmed. If the property is of such an age that there is distemper on the wall or ceilings then any amount of good pva or otherwise will be pointless.As it will only sit on the distemper,dry then slowly delaminate from the surface.These points should be given due consideration prior to any plastering taking place.

Such surfaces will require acrilic or oil based primer sealer 48 hours prior to any over skimming, the skim MUST be applied while the PVA is still tacky.( glue will not stick anything once it has dried.My advise would be to over board the ceilings prior to skimming ( might have been artex on existing ceilings or distemper)Strip of all of the previous skim,survey the expsosed surface and make an accurate assesment of the procedures required prior to re plastering.Paying paricular attenetion to any blown areas and cracks within the existing walls.

Thirdly do not let this guy any where near your house again, get a quote for rectification, and write to him explaining , in veiw of the stress you have suffered ,that he is to cover all the costs.
 
Thanks Mark,

Just had someone to have another look, they say it is not distemper but could be the remains of some lead based paint?

The property is late 60's so this could be possible.

I really fear having to re-board the lot.
 
With out actually seeing it it is not possible to make an accurate assesment,each job is considered on its own merits.But generally we always advise overboarding prior to skimming on all ceilings,as we can then provide a 100% perfect job with a guarantee. This is only my opnion, but I opperate a belt and braces aproach to every job. Thistle Gypbond is another product to consider for over skim to walls.
 
mark ross said:
With out actually seeing it it is not possible to make an accurate assesment,each job is considered on its own merits.But generally we always advise overboarding prior to skimming on all ceilings,as we can then provide a 100% perfect job with a guarantee. This is only my opnion, but I opperate a belt and braces aproach to every job. Thistle Gypbond is another product to consider for over skim to walls.
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spot on mate :RpS_thumbup:
 
ill say it again plasprime or any other similar bonding agents like as mark has said thistle gypbond will more than likely solve the problem.except the job needs re doing.
 
Thanks to Mark and Martin for their latest posts. We have another plasterer coming on Monday to look at the job. This guy does the job for a living and has his own van. Seen his work and its superb.
 
mark if you 100% guarantee against cracking then you are foolish. you cannot guarantee something wont crack. you can do all in your power to prevent it but thats about it. what if the timbers you are screwing into have a bit of bounce in them and they decide to move a wardrobe upstairs.
 
bodplasterer said:
I wouldnt use pva on gloss mate you are gonna need thistle bond-it or wba
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Thanks mate, just trying to establish the route of the problem.

Whether it's the PVA having gone off in the bad weather?

Whether it's a reaction from the surface he's applied the plaster too?

I'm thinking it could be a mixture of both, but going to invest in a tub of Wickes Bonding Agent.

Is it best to apply this 24 hours prior to plastering? If so, I'll roller it on the day before and get him to skim over.

Does this require any further PVA? or just a case of plastering over it?

Thanks again.
 
There pretty much all the same wba is the same as the knauf version betacontact and bg's thistle bond-it is just a green version the only one i have used that wasnt any good was by a company called bond-it and they have made one which is yellow and is pretty much yellow pva with sand in so avoid that one but yeah just apply it a day prior to skimming and away you go no need to pva.
 
bob try bluegrit made by everbuild

same as bond it, wba etc but its around half the price and does the same job,thats what we use to use for jobs of this nature.
 
beddy said:
mark if you 100% guarantee against cracking then you are foolish. you cannot guarantee something wont crack. you can do all in your power to prevent it but thats about it. what if the timbers you are screwing into have a bit of bounce in them and they decide to move a wardrobe upstairs.
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Yes you are right Beddy, I think the point here was to gauruntee that the suff would stay up there in this instance. Flexing in ceilings is another issue alltogether.And only upon close inspection can you advise as to weither a ceiling will require additional noggins/bracing. Your comments are very true.I would never inform a client that there is 100% no risk from hairline cracks in celings.Although in cases where we have considered it a greater chance..( normally ceilings below a roof where wind loadings on the roof can be transferred into the ceiling joists) we have used thicker board and paper taped joints instead of scrim.
 
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