Parex Micro
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Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
I used it recently with a different mono manufacturer and I was so impressed with the grab and suction control I am going to use it more often. If it's good enough for Parex then it's good enough for anybody else's.
It will off course be a get out clause if it it goes tits up!
It will off course be a get out clause if it it goes tits up!
User___removed
Well-Known Member
Can't see why not
user__removed
Private Member
It's blinding gear I can't see why not either.
Kylewesley
Active Member
What exactly does the micro do is it like the r10 primer ?
What are the limits of it?
We always stick to systems and will base/ mesh pretty much everything unless the rare 7n blocks come up ( usually when the builder isn't tight) can it be use on hack off?
What's the damage on it per tub
Kylewesley
Active Member
So basically a primer and can go tits up...
Is it cheap?
Is it cheap?
Arti
Well-Known Member
£42 +Vat from durham render
User___removed
Well-Known Member
It does make you wonder how they spec 18 mm of render to hang off it.
user_removed
Well-Known Member
We use a fair amount of micro, r10/r7 and will always push to use manufacturers that have liquid primers, Eco rend have one, which is S10.
Believe JUB do one, but I haven't used it.
It should only be a matter of time before Weber do one.
I'm not a massive fan of rend-aid due to price and the application process, your basically rendering the house twice, we will use rend-aid on very poor substrates or on painted substrates, or other basecoats to suit, I am going to try and push a very wet rendaid through the hopper gun using the lk402 compressor to see if we can prime a house in a few hours using it, it should leave a stipple effect but only be 2/3mm at most.
We wash walls down with water and then use these liquid primers, which kill high suction and neutralise the wall, we water it down slightly to avoid it skinning on the surface as it's better if its absorbed into the brickwork I feel.
Touch wood, we haven't had a problem, render always seems to bond nicely to the wall.
Believe JUB do one, but I haven't used it.
It should only be a matter of time before Weber do one.
I'm not a massive fan of rend-aid due to price and the application process, your basically rendering the house twice, we will use rend-aid on very poor substrates or on painted substrates, or other basecoats to suit, I am going to try and push a very wet rendaid through the hopper gun using the lk402 compressor to see if we can prime a house in a few hours using it, it should leave a stipple effect but only be 2/3mm at most.
We wash walls down with water and then use these liquid primers, which kill high suction and neutralise the wall, we water it down slightly to avoid it skinning on the surface as it's better if its absorbed into the brickwork I feel.
Touch wood, we haven't had a problem, render always seems to bond nicely to the wall.
user_removed
Well-Known Member
We have a large k-rend job coming up in a week or 2 and I spoke with the rep who said he was fine with me drenching it in there primer and cracking on.
Mixture of old brickwork and new block work.
Mixture of old brickwork and new block work.
user_removed
Well-Known Member
A simple way to test is to hose the wall down, what does the water do, if it runs of as it would do on say engineering brick, glossy paint then get a basecoat on it.
If the water absorbs into the brickwork at a nice slow pace, then I'd have no qualms about getting straight on washed, primed walls, the primer just to neutralise the dust and hold off any high suction areas.
If the brickwork is a mess, they need a bricklayer, not a renderer.
Large damaged areas where a bricklayer isn't warranted we fill out with OCR or something similar, small holes, expanding foam sawn off then primed over.
I am moving away from weber as I think they are overkill, money orientated and a poor brittle brand of render.
If the water absorbs into the brickwork at a nice slow pace, then I'd have no qualms about getting straight on washed, primed walls, the primer just to neutralise the dust and hold off any high suction areas.
If the brickwork is a mess, they need a bricklayer, not a renderer.
Large damaged areas where a bricklayer isn't warranted we fill out with OCR or something similar, small holes, expanding foam sawn off then primed over.
I am moving away from weber as I think they are overkill, money orientated and a poor brittle brand of render.
jamesthefirst
Private Member
Is the grit size of the r10/r7 similar to micro, can it be watered down?
Danny
-
same way the bondit stuff does maybe? even that I am not sure how it works...
SpankySouthport
Private Member
Bond-it & blue grit have massive grits compared to micro, micro is almost no grain what so ever but still works ):
Kylewesley
Active Member
So in effect it's not a bonding agent but more like to give consistent suction.
We like base coat and mesh as it creates a substrate with a sound, hard pre coat that has mesh almost at the substrate. Then mesh stress points on top coat.
Maybe over kill but works good
We like base coat and mesh as it creates a substrate with a sound, hard pre coat that has mesh almost at the substrate. Then mesh stress points on top coat.
Maybe over kill but works good
FreeD
Private Member
I've tried the Rend Aid through hopper and compressor, you can get peaks 2-3mm although Weber say that is not enough, they want between 5-8mm. So we sprayed a couple of m2 then got a textured roller on it, that worked well. But I hate the stuff, it's so time consuming and messy compared to applying Micro.
I spoke to the Weber rep the other day and he said there were no plans for a liquid primer, although there were other products coming soon...
Why would you not use Micro on engineering? I thought that it was designed for low suction...
Also can you recommend an alternative to Weber OCR?
Kylewesley
Active Member
Kmix
Pamurex
Pamurex
Kylewesley
Active Member
That's what I don't understand with weber if a peak is 8mm and the total thickness is 15 mm for mono if their is a decrepency in the wall their is a good chance of rend aid grinning throu. We apply 3mm fully mesh another 3mm scratch. Bead and top.
When we went to flitwick they had the test panel of rendaid which was deep stipple IMO great for a shuttered wall with no key but on a hack off/ re render I'd wanna ocr rule and scratch over that then 15 mm mono.
Any other opinions??
When we went to flitwick they had the test panel of rendaid which was deep stipple IMO great for a shuttered wall with no key but on a hack off/ re render I'd wanna ocr rule and scratch over that then 15 mm mono.
Any other opinions??
Frankly, I don't see why you would bother using weber over Parex, It's more expensive for starters, rend aid is a ball ache compared to micro, and you have to wait for it to dry, webers mesh is to small for mono imo, and the end finish isn't as good.
user_removed
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't use micro on engineering bricks as I think bonding 15mm of render to a smooth faced brick is a bit much for any liquid primer, even if I was doing a parex job, id use a proper basecoat, different strokes for different folks an all that.
I don't use micro to bond anything to the wall, it's to get rid of the dust and the kill suction, most renders will stick to the wall anyway.
Most jobs I see they don't do anything, hack off and straight on.
As said, I am now finding WEBER to be a poor product and will not give it the same backing to customers I use to, it's very brittle, doesn't take to beading very well and is expensive for what it is.
I don't use micro to bond anything to the wall, it's to get rid of the dust and the kill suction, most renders will stick to the wall anyway.
Most jobs I see they don't do anything, hack off and straight on.
As said, I am now finding WEBER to be a poor product and will not give it the same backing to customers I use to, it's very brittle, doesn't take to beading very well and is expensive for what it is.
FreeD
Private Member
Most of the time on hack offs we scratch it first get it bang on with mesh if required, then whack 10mm beads on. If using Weber you can OCR then pral M. Getting your beads on first is usually a nightmare, and as you say the depth requirements you can be really tight in areas or 2 heavy in others.
Completely different if new build, straight forward then, I've never seen the need for 8mm peaks 5mm is fine.
Kylewesley
Active Member
I wouldn't want to risk only 10mm over a peak.. Especially as one high spot and your on the limit.
keithuk
Private Member
Why is Weber a "poor " product ?
FreeD
Private Member
Just common sense really if the substrate is poor then you need to get your base/scratch coat on first then dab your beads on and you will have no problem with scratching back.
FreeD
Private Member
I've never had a problem with Weber, I've often thought of moving to Parex Mono after reading on here...but I've seen a couple of re furb jobs done over a basecoat that have cracked up badly so never made the move...I'll try and get some pics next week of one by mine...
The mono products are supposedly very similar...anyway..
Arti
Well-Known Member
do you mean the peaks you get from keying rendaid ?. we stopped using a roller to key it cos off the high peaks you can get
user_removed
Well-Known Member
Apologies, I meant there pral m, which I am noticing is very brittle & not taking to beads as well.
It also seems to mark up quicker when other trades are working around a fresh finished wall, the slightest touch leaving marks and for a highly priced render I see products that are just as good but cost less £.
Might be me, I work with mainly weber gear, but am wanting to move away
FreeD
Private Member
Yep it doesn't make sense to peak it 8mm, considering scratch is normally around 3mm deep.
They had a few failures down to renderers not keying sufficiently so have obviously exaggerated the technical specs to drive it home, to be honest those that had failures probably don't read the specs anyway...
Personally I think a good 3mm scratch or peaks is fine
user_removed
Well-Known Member
I'll put the cat amongst the pigeons now....
When speaking to a weber instructor on a training course, I was told they would wash they're hands on anything not 15mm + on mono work
When speaking to a weber instructor on a training course, I was told they would wash they're hands on anything not 15mm + on mono work
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
They would wash their hands of anything.
But saying that I have seen Parex crack.
user_removed
Well-Known Member
I don't doubt.
I'll give you a call if your not busy buddy tomorrow, not spoke for a while.
How you get on with Dave, any good?
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