What exactly does the micro do is it like the r10 primer ?I used it recently with a different mono manufacturer and I was so impressed with the grab and suction control I am going to use it more often. If it's good enough for Parex then it's good enough for anybody else's.
It will off course be a get out clause if it it goes tits up!
£42 +Vat from durham renderSo basically a primer and can go tits up...
Is it cheap?
We have a large k-rend job coming up in a week or 2 and I spoke with the rep who said he was fine with me drenching it in there primer and cracking on.
Mixture of old brickwork and new block work.
I have asked how does a film that is allowed to dry work as a bonding agent? When material is applied to it how does it adhere?
No answer as yet.
same way the bondit stuff does maybe? even that I am not sure how it works...
We use a fair amount of micro, r10/r7 and will always push to use manufacturers that have liquid primers, Eco rend have one, which is S10.
Believe JUB do one, but I haven't used it.
It should only be a matter of time before Weber do one.
I'm not a massive fan of rend-aid due to price and the application process, your basically rendering the house twice, we will use rend-aid on very poor substrates or on painted substrates, or other basecoats to suit, I am going to try and push a very wet rendaid through the hopper gun using the lk402 compressor to see if we can prime a house in a few hours using it, it should leave a stipple effect but only be 2/3mm at most.
We wash walls down with water and then use these liquid primers, which kill high suction and neutralise the wall, we water it down slightly to avoid it skinning on the surface as it's better if its absorbed into the brickwork I feel.
Touch wood, we haven't had a problem, render always seems to bond nicely to the wall.
Frankly, I don't see why you would bother using weber over Parex, It's more expensive for starters, rend aid is a ball ache compared to micro, and you have to wait for it to dry, webers mesh is to small for mono imo, and the end finish isn't as good.That's what I don't understand with weber if a peak is 8mm and the total thickness is 15 mm for mono if their is a decrepency in the wall their is a good chance of rend aid grinning throu. We apply 3mm fully mesh another 3mm scratch. Bead and top.
When we went to flitwick they had the test panel of rendaid which was deep stipple IMO great for a shuttered wall with no key but on a hack off/ re render I'd wanna ocr rule and scratch over that then 15 mm mono.
Any other opinions??
That's what I don't understand with weber if a peak is 8mm and the total thickness is 15 mm for mono if their is a decrepency in the wall their is a good chance of rend aid grinning throu. We apply 3mm fully mesh another 3mm scratch. Bead and top.
When we went to flitwick they had the test panel of rendaid which was deep stipple IMO great for a shuttered wall with no key but on a hack off/ re render I'd wanna ocr rule and scratch over that then 15 mm mono.
Any other opinions??
I wouldn't want to risk only 10mm over a peak.. Especially as one high spot and your on the limit.Most of the time on hack offs we scratch it first get it bang on with mesh if required, then whack 10mm beads on. If using Weber you can OCR then pral M. Getting your beads on first is usually a nightmare, and as you say the depth requirements you can be really tight in areas or 2 heavy in others.
Completely different if new build, straight forward then, I've never seen the need for 8mm peaks 5mm is fine.
Why is Weber a "poor " product ?I wouldn't use micro on engineering bricks as I think bonding 15mm of render to a smooth faced brick is a bit much for any liquid primer, even if I was doing a parex job, id use a proper basecoat, different strokes for different folks an all that.
I don't use micro to bond anything to the wall, it's to get rid of the dust and the kill suction, most renders will stick to the wall anyway.
Most jobs I see they don't do anything, hack off and straight on.
As said, I am now finding WEBER to be a poor product and will not give it the same backing to customers I use to, it's very brittle, doesn't take to beading very well and is expensive for what it is.
I wouldn't want to risk only 10mm over a peak.. Especially as one high spot and your on the limit.
Why is Weber a "poor " product ?
do you mean the peaks you get from keying rendaid ?. we stopped using a roller to key it cos off the high peaks you can getThat's what I don't understand with weber if a peak is 8mm and the total thickness is 15 mm for mono if their is a decrepency in the wall their is a good chance of rend aid grinning throu. We apply 3mm fully mesh another 3mm scratch. Bead and top.
When we went to flitwick they had the test panel of rendaid which was deep stipple IMO great for a shuttered wall with no key but on a hack off/ re render I'd wanna ocr rule and scratch over that then 15 mm mono.
Any other opinions??
Why is Weber a "poor " product ?
I used to peak rend aid but you had to flatten the area's where the stress patches went and there was always the risk of the peaks coming out of the surface of the mono. Weber Chalk with grey spots. Scratch It now
I'll put the cat amongst the pigeons now....
When speaking to a weber instructor on a training course, I was told they would wash they're hands on anything not 15mm + on mono work
They would wash their hands of anything.
But saying that I have seen Parex crack.