Inset stove plaster peeling and cracked plasterboard

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Skyeguy

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Hi Folks, I have an inset stove and the plaster has cracked above it. I've peeled off some wall today and can see the plasterboard has cracked too. If I knock on the wall it sounds like the plasterboard is loose.

What's the best way to repair this? I'm thinking it needs cut back to solid wall which is approx 400mm wide x 500mm high.

Appreciate any help and advice.
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Should be render, hack off and render.
Could hack off put up hardibacker cement board and tile it feature wall style if you can pull stove a smidge forward to accommodate new front dimensions as pic below or tile it up to ceiling but not if you have cornice unless you can pull cornice forward too :p
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Steve Brown said:
I bet the majority of plaster on that fire breast wall was shot and had no key before the fire got fitted.
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Got a plasterer in today, had to hack off a fair amount of plasterboard to get anything solid. The boards were stuck on dot and dab which had failed allowing the board to move and crack my guess. Thick layer of render going on, will hopefully do the trick
 
What is needed in this situation is Vitcus heat resistant plaster. Expensive but that is what it is designed for.
 
Skyeguy said:
Got a plasterer in today, had to hack off a fair amount of plasterboard to get anything solid. The boards were stuck on dot and dab which had failed allowing the board to move and crack my guess. Thick layer of render going on, will hopefully do the trick
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what's your spread said he's gonna use to render it?
 
malc said:
What is needed in this situation is Vitcus heat resistant plaster. Expensive but that is what it is designed for.
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chancing skim slags on here would'nt have a clue about vitcas...slap bonding on anything and everything...they would'nt be able to quote high enough to pay for it anyway working for cheap ass clientele
 
Skyeguy said:
Hi Folks, I have an inset stove and the plaster has cracked above it. I've peeled off some wall today and can see the plasterboard has cracked too. If I knock on the wall it sounds like the plasterboard is loose.

What's the best way to repair this? I'm thinking it needs cut back to solid wall which is approx 400mm wide x 500mm high.

Appreciate any help and advice.
View attachment 75974View attachment 75973
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Should never of been installed from the outset with those materials ….

THE END .
 
clone of lurpak said:
chancing skim slags on here would'nt have a clue about vitcas...slap bonding on anything and everything...they would'nt be able to quote high enough to pay for it anyway working for cheap ass clientele
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What about site slags what would they use . Oh I know 6mm contour board that'll do the job . Yeeee haaaa
 
not even a stop bead, no expansion gap, ordinary plaster not lime render or even chancer mesh and skim with a gap
Stove is fitted too far in, the finish is supposed to go behind it with at least a trowel thickness air gap.

and why would you want to let the boards move and crack?
 
Breast should have been dry lined with battens and board. Sand and cement will likely fail due to the heat.

We dry line the breast and always cement boards internally.

Never render.

Good luck.
 
FreeD said:
Breast should have been dry lined with battens and board. Sand and cement will likely fail due to the heat.

We dry line the breast and always cement boards internally.

Never render.

Good luck.
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Don't let the victus heat resistant gang hear that you'll be in the Shite then . Ha ha
 
FreeD said:
Breast should have been dry lined with battens and board. Sand and cement will likely fail due to the heat.

We dry line the breast and always cement boards internally.

Never render.

Good luck.
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I prefer cement boards in the chamber but lime render and render of breasts can work fine. Inside the chamber it depends upon clearances to the stove and the amount of heat/size of the stove.
There's lots of good reasons why you shouldn't batten and board chimney breasts - main one is to prevent fumes and heat/oxygen getting up the back, needs to be well sealed off even with a stove where the risk is less.
 
Brimstone said:
I prefer cement boards in the chamber but lime render and render of breasts can work fine. Inside the chamber it depends upon clearances to the stove and the amount of heat/size of the stove.
There's lots of good reasons why you shouldn't batten and board chimney breasts - main one is to prevent fumes and heat/oxygen getting up the back, needs to be well sealed off even with a stove where the risk is less.
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There's no way fumes/heat can get in the cavity...the breast is dry lined first and the opening cement boarded bridging the cavity. I'm not saying render doesn't work but chimney breast are often a have contaminants and damp that can affect the render e.g salts...then find me a customer that will wait 4-6 weeks before using the burner?
 
FreeD said:
There's no way fumes/heat can get in the cavity...the breast is dry lined first and the opening cement boarded bridging the cavity. I'm not saying render doesn't work but chimney breast are often a have contaminants and damp that can affect the render e.g salts...then find me a customer that will wait 4-6 weeks before using the burner?
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Often its ok the way you say, but if the battening is touching or close to the cement board, the heat goes thru the board like a cooker hotplate and can cause the batten to char then burn or bend and create a crack/gap.
It's one of the common HETAS practical exam challenges to spot it. Pink board crumbles away from the back first.

I agree I wouldn't render if it was damp or had a lot of salts/dirty brickwork. I've not had any fail but it does take time and a few days between coats, so most clients don't want to wait more than a couple of days after.
 
malc said:
What is needed in this situation is Vitcus heat resistant plaster. Expensive but that is what it is designed for.
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I had to use the backing coat at 30mm about 12m square omg it’s like ruling ballast, it was a small enclosed fire we only did the face of the wall not even the inside, skimmed it with there finish plaster the painter refused to paint it looked shite haha
 
Brimstone said:
Often its ok the way you say, but if the battening is touching or close to the cement board, the heat goes thru the board like a cooker hotplate and can cause the batten to char then burn or bend and create a crack/gap.
It's one of the common HETAS practical exam challenges to spot it. Pink board crumbles away from the back first.

I agree I wouldn't render if it was damp or had a lot of salts/dirty brickwork. I've not had any fail but it does take time and a few days between coats, so most clients don't want to wait more than a couple of days after.
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You are obviously the pro mate as you install them daily. I'm quite particular about these things and if I thought there was a fire risk I certainly wouldn't do it but appreciate you have to meet regs. I don't take the battens right down on the face I leave them around 8 inches from the cement board.
 
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