I'm a brickie, want to k rend top half of my house.

Members online

Total: 862 (members: 16, guests: 846)

Share this page

W

Wire

New Member
Hi all.

So, having scoured and read almost everything in the rendering section of this forum i now want to 'have a go ' at doing my own home and the extension i'm soon to build.

I'm planning on building the new gable in brickwork and k rendering the front and back.

Although i'd like to save money on doing it myself, my main motive is, i want to do it and have the satisfaction of saying " i did that".

I plan on doing the back first , prepping really well and see how it goes. If i f**k it up or it's not accepteable i'll just knock it all off and get the right people into do it. My questions to you are.
1. If i have to take the base coat,mesh and top coat off after it has set, does it come off easy or is it a t**t to get off. I don't mind the expense per se , it's the time that i'm really short of.

2. Knowing the information i've just given, what would be your top tips to the "wannabee " k renderer.
Be gentle , i'm only a Brickie....;-)
 
Same as Scottie
I am a bricklayer , I would choose stone / brickwork, any day over render ..
You got the skills , no brainier
 
I'm a plasterer I want to build a double story extension on my house I've read how to do it and mastered using fairy liquid in the mix

Quick question if I use lemon liquid will ill be able to lay more than 8 courses in a day?

If i build it with thermolites would I be less muscular ?
 
Saving money yourself... So you'd take time off paid work to do it, why not take that paid work and get someone into do it and pay for it, your no worse off then and get an a1 job with out the hassle of doing it yourself.
 
scottie5 said:
pub land Lord?.

:birras:
the Duke still open?.
I see there's planning consent been granted to marstons to build another pub on the old royal hunt site.
makes sense knock a decent pub down to build another pub in its place :nocausagracia:.
Click to expand...
Drove past the Duke last week all the windows were boarded up ..


So presumed business as usual,lol
 
Last edited by a moderator:
owls said:
Saving money yourself... So you'd take time off paid work to do it, why not take that paid work and get someone into do it and pay for it, your no worse off then and get an a1 job with out the hassle of doing it yourself.
Click to expand...


Only if bg approved though lol
 
Ok. Existing house is rendered, top half. I'm building a side extension, double story, this new gable, i'm doing in brickwork. I'll remove the old render off the front and back and re render the front and back only leaving the new gable in brickwork.

I like a challenge, as i have said, money per se, isn't the problem. I want to stand back and say i did that. Nothing risked nothing gained.

So, any answers?
 
Wire said:
Hi all.

So, having scoured and read almost everything in the rendering section of this forum i now want to 'have a go ' at doing my own home and the extension i'm soon to build.

I'm planning on building the new gable in brickwork and k rendering the front and back.

Although i'd like to save money on doing it myself, my main motive is, i want to do it and have the satisfaction of saying " i did that".

I plan on doing the back first , prepping really well and see how it goes. If i f**k it up or it's not accepteable i'll just knock it all off and get the right people into do it. My questions to you are.
1. If i have to take the base coat,mesh and top coat off after it has set, does it come off easy or is it a t**t to get off. I don't mind the expense per se , it's the time that i'm really short of.

2. Knowing the information i've just given, what would be your top tips to the "wannabee " k renderer.
Be gentle , i'm only a Brickie....;-)
Click to expand...

Chances are you won't be happy with it if it's your first attempt and your doing it by hand. These products are best applied by machine, either hire a machine or get someone in who has got one.
 
yeah nothing like standing back and seen your own f##k up.We have straighten walls after brickies so the best of luck.Old saying stick to what you know.Best of luck.
 
As much as a nice mono job looks i dont think you can beat good stonework
Id use a renderer pal mono can be hard at the best of times bever mind if you have never done it before.
You could always offer to help maybe then at least you can still say you have helped do it
 
FreeD said:
Chances are you won't be happy with it if it's your first attempt and your doing it by hand. These products are best applied by machine, either hire a machine or get someone in who has got one.
Click to expand...

You guys and your machines make me chuckle. We'd have the render on the wall and levelled off on a job that size before you'd finished knobbing about with the pressure gauge and squirting bags into the skip. Its literally 4 5bag mixes.

In answer to the OP.

Prime the walls with R7, 5mm of HP12 base left with a key the first day. 12mm of the top coat of your choice the next day, rule it off so its pretty level, then once you cant get your thumb nail in it scrape 2mm off with an I bar to get flat and textured and use a scraper to lightly finish your scratch off if you feel it needs it.

Not rocket science, as much as some here seem to make out.
 
Last edited:
Thankyou jimbob. Decent answer. Should i not embed mesh in the base coat?
When you say rule it off, is that a darby or a speedskim straight edge, or are they one and the same.

When would you use a serated edge? ,immediately after i've applied the whole of the top coat or as i proceed with the top coat.

When i put the top coat on, would i apply two passes , each being 6mm or apply 12mm in one pass.?

The k rend will go over the top of some lead flashing, how do i apply the stop bead, same as i would the reveals and corners with gripfill or is there another method. Thanks again Jimbob, i know it's a difficult product but i 'm gonna have a go. What's the worse that can happen, i'm down the cost of the materials and some of my time. If i do muck it up how easy is it to hack off....?
 
Jimbob9 said:
You guys and your machines make me chuckle. We'd have the render on the wall and levelled off on a job that size before you'd finished knobbing about with the pressure gauge and squirting bags into the skip. Its literally 4 5bag mixes.

In answer to the OP.

Prime the walls with R7, 5mm of HP12 base left with a key the first day. 12mm of the top coat of your choice the next day, rule it off so its pretty level, then once you cant get your thumb nail in it scrape 2mm off with an I bar to get flat and textured and use a scraper to lightly finish your scratch off if you feel it needs it.

Not rocket science, as much as some here seem to make out.
Click to expand...
Priceless
You love k rend and your reckon it's quicker by hand
2 knob jockey trophy's for you son
 
Th
Wire said:
Thankyou jimbob. Decent answer. Should i not embed mesh in the base coat?
When you say rule it off, is that a darby or a speedskim straight edge, or are they one and the same.

When would you use a serated edge? ,immediately after i've applied the whole of the top coat or as i proceed with the top coat.

When i put the top coat on, would i apply two passes , each being 6mm or apply 12mm in one pass.?

The k rend will go over the top of some lead flashing, how do i apply the stop bead, same as i would the reveals and corners with gripfill or is there another method. Thanks again Jimbob, i know it's a difficult product but i 'm gonna have a go. What's the worse that can happen, i'm down the cost of the materials and some of my time. If i do muck it up how easy is it to hack off....?
Click to expand...
e worse and most Likely outcome is you spend decent money and it looks s**t
 
Wire said:
Thankyou jimbob. Decent answer. Should i not embed mesh in the base coat?
When you say rule it off, is that a darby or a speedskim straight edge, or are they one and the same.

When would you use a serated edge? ,immediately after i've applied the whole of the top coat or as i proceed with the top coat.

When i put the top coat on, would i apply two passes , each being 6mm or apply 12mm in one pass.?

The k rend will go over the top of some lead flashing, how do i apply the stop bead, same as i would the reveals and corners with gripfill or is there another method. Thanks again Jimbob, i know it's a difficult product but i 'm gonna have a go. What's the worse that can happen, i'm down the cost of the materials and some of my time. If i do muck it up how easy is it to hack off....?
Click to expand...
Get this guy in he's cheap and keen:sisi:
 
Wire said:
Thankyou jimbob. Decent answer. Should i not embed mesh in the base coat?
When you say rule it off, is that a darby or a speedskim straight edge, or are they one and the same.

When would you use a serated edge? ,immediately after i've applied the whole of the top coat or as i proceed with the top coat.

When i put the top coat on, would i apply two passes , each being 6mm or apply 12mm in one pass.?

The k rend will go over the top of some lead flashing, how do i apply the stop bead, same as i would the reveals and corners with gripfill or is there another method. Thanks again Jimbob, i know it's a difficult product but i 'm gonna have a go. What's the worse that can happen, i'm down the cost of the materials and some of my time. If i do muck it up how easy is it to hack off....?
Click to expand...

Wouldn't worry about mesh too much on existing solid brick and small job, but can't harm owt using it if you want to give it a try. Embed it in the base coat and float it in.

Use hp12 to bed your beads it'll stick s**t to a blanket.

If you're handy with a trowel and used to flattening up with one, just trowel it, maybe spatula it up then use the I bar to get it flat when it's hardened. Jobs not really big enough to need loads of tools. Bang the 12mm on in one hit, don't do two passes or you'll probably halo the finish when scratching. Keep in mind that you can get away with more when you scratch the render harder rather than softer. Dry, raspy and dusty the scrape wants to be.

It's not that hard mate, piece of piss if you don't over complicate the job.

I know loads of guys who always do a pin sharp job armed with nothing but a mixing bucket, mixer, trowel, I bar and a scraper.
 
Thanks again jimbob. Does an i bar go by another name, i can't seem to find them in th 1 stop plasterers shop? How many bags should i mix in one batch, base coat and top coat? Do i need to prime the brickwork before the base coat goes on? Cheers mate. It costs nothing to be nice..Unlike some folk on here...
 
Wire said:
Thanks again jimbob. Does an i bar go by another name, i can't seem to find them in th 1 stop plasterers shop? How many bags should i mix in one batch, base coat and top coat? Do i need to prime the brickwork before the base coat goes on? Cheers mate. It costs nothing to be nice..Unlike some folk on here...
Click to expand...
They not being not nice ,tbh I normally like the advice jimbob gives but for you to take on a render job I have to agree with the rest.
It's disaster waiting happen.
Most plasterers see it as kind of like disrespect for what we do and know.
 
Sorry Wire, I'm going to put the boot in too! I can lay bricks but it'll take me a day to do what you can do in and couple of hours. If the muck in my board gets stiff I'll knock it up a carry on. Plastering doesn't work like that. Most of us took on small areas when we where learning and as our speed and skill improved we took on larger areas. I get that you want to say "I done that" But have a look at the terrible rendering compilation thread. You wouldn't want to own up to any of those.
 
Last edited:
Who is it a disaster for? What's the worst that can happen , it's s**t, i take it off.
Think about it from my perspective. I get to do it on my terms, when i want, no hanging around and not having to deal with renderers suckin'each other off saying " specialist work this" under no circumstances should anyone attempt to do this, you'll f**k it up. I might , granted, i might also nail it and then , much more importantly to me, i say to myself, " i did that"

There's lots of non plasterers and punters who come and have a look in this forum, its certainly beneficial to you renderer folk to protect your positions by scaremongering about all the pitfalls and shoddy work that goes on. And therein lies another problem, only get someone who is accreditted by the render manufacturer's you might say. Yeah , but there all way too busy i can do it in two weeks or three or two months, so i pick a so called plasterer / renderer and they f**k it up.
Someone has just had done on their house what i want to do on mine, a low sun was shining on it tonight , high's and low's all over the place, misses and portholes everywhere, couple of beads awry.

I'll have a go at it theplasterman, i've done some before, an external wall about 5m long by about 1.5 m long in Germany. I didn' t know what render it was , i just did what my German wife and the father in law told me to do, there was abase coat , plastic mesh and a top coat. The tool i used for scratching up was different to the ones i've seen over here , it left a much more textured finish.
Father in law was happy, and it looked just like the render on the house, and that was having my mrs translate all the information to me..

We'll see buddy....if i nail it, i'll put some pics up, if i f**k it up you'll never know, nor likely to care...
 
  • Like
Reactions: s61
Wire said:
Who is it a disaster for? What's the worst that can happen , it's s**t, i take it off.
Think about it from my perspective. I get to do it on my terms, when i want, no hanging around and not having to deal with renderers suckin'each other off saying " specialist work this" under no circumstances should anyone attempt to do this, you'll f**k it up. I might , granted, i might also nail it and then , much more importantly to me, i say to myself, " i did that"

There's lots of non plasterers and punters who come and have a look in this forum, its certainly beneficial to you renderer folk to protect your positions by scaremongering about all the pitfalls and shoddy work that goes on. And therein lies another problem, only get someone who is accreditted by the render manufacturer's you might say. Yeah , but there all way too busy i can do it in two weeks or three or two months, so i pick a so called plasterer / renderer and they f**k it up.
Someone has just had done on their house what i want to do on mine, a low sun was shining on it tonight , high's and low's all over the place, misses and portholes everywhere, couple of beads awry.

I'll have a go at it theplasterman, i've done some before, an external wall about 5m long by about 1.5 m long in Germany. I didn' t know what render it was , i just did what my German wife and the father in law told me to do, there was abase coat , plastic mesh and a top coat. The tool i used for scratching up was different to the ones i've seen over here , it left a much more textured finish.
Father in law was happy, and it looked just like the render on the house, and that was having my mrs translate all the information to me..

We'll see buddy....if i nail it, i'll put some pics up, if i f**k it up you'll never know, nor likely to care...
Click to expand...
Mate I wasn't having a go
I'll leave it at that
Best of luck
 
Wire said:
Who is it a disaster for? What's the worst that can happen , it's s**t, i take it off.
Think about it from my perspective. I get to do it on my terms, when i want, no hanging around and not having to deal with renderers suckin'each other off saying " specialist work this" under no circumstances should anyone attempt to do this, you'll f**k it up. I might , granted, i might also nail it and then , much more importantly to me, i say to myself, " i did that"

There's lots of non plasterers and punters who come and have a look in this forum, its certainly beneficial to you renderer folk to protect your positions by scaremongering about all the pitfalls and shoddy work that goes on. And therein lies another problem, only get someone who is accreditted by the render manufacturer's you might say. Yeah , but there all way too busy i can do it in two weeks or three or two months, so i pick a so called plasterer / renderer and they f**k it up.
Someone has just had done on their house what i want to do on mine, a low sun was shining on it tonight , high's and low's all over the place, misses and portholes everywhere, couple of beads awry.

I'll have a go at it theplasterman, i've done some before, an external wall about 5m long by about 1.5 m long in Germany. I didn' t know what render it was , i just did what my German wife and the father in law told me to do, there was abase coat , plastic mesh and a top coat. The tool i used for scratching up was different to the ones i've seen over here , it left a much more textured finish.
Father in law was happy, and it looked just like the render on the house, and that was having my mrs translate all the information to me..

We'll see buddy....if i nail it, i'll put some pics up, if i f**k it up you'll never know, nor likely to care...
Click to expand...
where you based pal
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top