Help with amounts please.

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Haggis

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Guys,
I have my first (internal) render job looming and I'm not sure how much material I'll need and could do with a bit of advice.
I reckon I have about 40m2 needing covered.
The old stuff has blown all over the place, so I plan on hacking it all off, back to the stonework. It is in a 200 year old farmhouse and going by the outside and some visible inner stuff (looking into the attic) the wall will be a nightmare: small blocks of stone loosely stuck together with dollops of cement so the surface wil most definately NOT be even.

I've been advised to use 3:1 sand/cement mix, but other than that I'm in the dark.
I said it should be D&D'd but was told no, as wonky walls are part of the character of the house - so render it is (and no feathering).
Can anyone give me a clue as to how much sand & cement I'll need, please.
I assume I will go through a tub or two of PVA first, sealing the walls.

Obviously I'll be taking lots of pictures for you guys to have a laugh at. :RpS_blushing:
 
You don't have to use pva see what the suctions like if you just wet them down first I think a tonne will do 40m so it's a good starting point just get cement and lime if you want to use it as you go
 
Ta for the reply.
Pity the sand seem to come in 800~850Kg bags.
So I'll be looking at about 10 bags of cement for the job.
Will 5 bags of Multi-finish cover over that? It seems a bit light to me, but maybe I'm still just a bit heavy handed.
 
Haggis I have to ask the question at 50 yrs old and this is your first rendering job internal ? are you new to the trade or are you taking the piss.
 
Haggis I have to ask the question at 50 yrs old and this is your first rendering job internal ? are you new to the trade or are you taking the piss.
No mate. As per my 1st post:
[
Hi folks,
I'm just breaking into plastering, so please excuse any stupid questions.
I'm currently on a C&G multi skills course in South Wales and seem to be getting on quite well with my plastering and am looking forward to getting some work in. Starting off small and working up as I get more experienced.

Cheers,
Alan
]

I've been working in IT for the past 15 years, mostly in and around London. There was just too much 'politics' in the job and I had hit a 'ceiling', my wife found the job of her dreams here in Wales, not far from where her mum lives and as we were short of cash we took her up on her invite to come stay with her. I've been a house husband for the last 2 years mainly looking after our two young kids. They are both now full time at school, so I can go back to work. However: (you may have noticed) there isn't much of anything going on at the mo, so no jobs in IT for my skills. The farm house where we lnow live has been kept going on a budget that has been run on the 'get everything done as cheaply as possible' theory. So I figured I can get some knowledge (from the course I'm currently on) that will help get this place back into shape as cheaply as possible (I won't charge the family for my time), but to a better standard - oh, and perhaps find a trade that I can make a living at.

Bet you're sorry you asked now :RpS_laugh:

So what would your advice on quantities/mix/methods be?
 
If you're not ruling it I wouldn't bother with waterproofer you might aswell put lime in both coats this won't hurt it'll make it easier to use and take the edge of the brittleness use as much as you're cement
 
Concrete Block Association - Aggregate Concrete Block FAQ
gives you some idea but it wont be anywhere near 0.7 as it is so that means you stuck with making it hit 0.3 and nope... theres no fancy solid system that will hit that figure...
insulation boards or just dont tell the punter or building inspector... its the punter thats liable.. your call...


that said, if you decide to conform to the regs, give the old bco a ring and get him down... might just have a cheaper or better plan for you with it being stone... you can argue breathability etc..
 
If you're not ruling it I wouldn't bother with waterproofer you might aswell put lime in both coats this won't hurt it'll make it easier to use and take the edge of the brittleness use as much as you're cement

So 4 or 5+1+1?
 
get it all hacked off and then work out what your gonna do , you need to see what your up against before you work out what you need ... 1st things 1st
 
4/5/6-1 just keep the second coat weaker a lad I used to work with would use 3-1 you can use plasterciser to don't go over the top just a couple of splashes in a builders bucket of water if you're using lime
 
Hi haggis
I think you are best to go down a sand and lime mix with the background your going onto . For me a sand and cement 3-1 mix is far to strong for this back ground. If you choose to go with S+C make it 5-1 mix again all depends on the sand . This background would serve you bette with a more sharper grade of sand then the crap BQ and wicks sell. At about 10 -15 mm thick a barrow of render will do about 3 m2 if your having to dubb out it could well double this amount.
 
Good luck mate, at least yr practising on yr own - or families - property first. As said, get the old stuff off first, but be prepared to build some of the old stonework back up as by the sounds of it, it might fall to bits when you strip it. This would be the only time I would use a 3:1 sand/cement mix(for re-building) Other than that - sand & lime sounds a good idea, then if you ever do dry-line it put a few air vents through the boards to maintain an air flow. Just my opinion without seeing the job:RpS_thumbup:
 
dunno about through the boards mate, thats gonna completely eliminate the vapour barrier...
air bricks to outside might not be a bad idea though... maintain an air gap between insulation and wall, and ventilate this gap...
black hole vents installed diagonally across the corners will prolly do it nicely...
 
ok....
just thought that building a studwall in front of it and sticking some insulation in there then boarding it is a whole site easier than p'ssing around rendering it and having the bloke ring him back 3 weeks later with cracks appearing having found out he should have insulated the f;cker in the first place...

if it were me i'd offer him the 'do it to the regs' and 'just render it' for the same price...
telling him about the building regs, money saved on heating bills etc...
and let him make an informed decision...

not my problem if he makes the wrong'un.... his funeral..

I'm only paid from the neck down...
 
Good luck mate, at least yr practising on yr own - or families - property first. As said, get the old stuff off first, but be prepared to build some of the old stonework back up as by the sounds of it, it might fall to bits when you strip it. This would be the only time I would use a 3:1 sand/cement mix(for re-building) Other than that - sand & lime sounds a good idea, then if you ever do dry-line it put a few air vents through the boards to maintain an air flow. Just my opinion without seeing the job:RpS_thumbup:

Yup, I may as well cock up my own MIL's gaff first :RpS_laugh:
The stonework falling apart does cause me some concern I do admit.

Ta for all the replies, it has given me much to think on and cleared up a fair bit too.
 
Hi haggis
I think you are best to go down a sand and lime mix with the background your going onto . For me a sand and cement 3-1 mix is far to strong for this back ground. If you choose to go with S+C make it 5-1 mix again all depends on the sand . This background would serve you bette with a more sharper grade of sand then the crap BQ and wicks sell. At about 10 -15 mm thick a barrow of render will do about 3 m2 if your having to dubb out it could well double this amount.

So should I use 'builders' sand or 'sharp' sand?
Is 'plastering' sand pants then (why)?
 
plastering sand comes in different forms in different parts of the country,in my eyes river sand is fracking pants(mersey or its a creamish coloured sand up here)its dead as a doornail.

i use washed sharp sand,its great to use,use a 4x1 for you dubbing out,and a 5x1x1 for you float coat,adding water proofer and feb.

wouldent worry to much about the reg thingie,its up to the customer,and id prefer wet plaster to dot and dab anyday,defo on solid random rubble as well
 
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