Wornoutboot
New Member
Well not much else on at Chrimbo, is there. Not a plasterer, more a plastering groupie, as I have an undying respect for your trade, ever since my late bestie, an artisan plasterer pointed out his brilliance to me more than once over a pint, then proved it by sorting out my walls and ceilings, flat as. I'm here picking brains a bit, as he showed me the basics, but its got a bit more serious since he went to plasterers heaven, and left me to do part 2 on my tod, and at my age too.
My question to start is.... I'm plaster boarding out a low loft space wall (650 to 720 mm) in France, lower edges are no problem as they are flat and level to the floor boards but the upper edge comes up to wooden beams all the way round, some of which ARE square (less than 25%), the rest is rough hewn timber with intermittent round or angled edge, which I want to leave exposed.
This means, as I see it, either, stopping the board below the beam at same level as attached stud and plaster or caulk filling to smooth up to the beam, or chamfering back edge of plasterboard to meet angle/round of beam then fixing in with an adhesive before filling. I'm planning to cover beams edges which have already been 1st coat varnished with 14 day masking tape, to avoid plaster/caulk ingress and staining, then cut and lift tape, but am just wondering if either of the above can be trumped by some knowledge one of you might have.
There are no straight lines, no equal distances or 2 measurements the same; nor full round or ovals, nearly every few mm the shapes of the beams change, as befits timber hand cut and placed over 100 years ago, by rural artisans. On this I don't think draw or flex will be a problem?
Its an interesting challenge for a pro, and I'm going to give it a crack as an am, and hope, with me ol' mates spirit in my bonce, it looks nice once done. So any advice gratefully received.
My question to start is.... I'm plaster boarding out a low loft space wall (650 to 720 mm) in France, lower edges are no problem as they are flat and level to the floor boards but the upper edge comes up to wooden beams all the way round, some of which ARE square (less than 25%), the rest is rough hewn timber with intermittent round or angled edge, which I want to leave exposed.
This means, as I see it, either, stopping the board below the beam at same level as attached stud and plaster or caulk filling to smooth up to the beam, or chamfering back edge of plasterboard to meet angle/round of beam then fixing in with an adhesive before filling. I'm planning to cover beams edges which have already been 1st coat varnished with 14 day masking tape, to avoid plaster/caulk ingress and staining, then cut and lift tape, but am just wondering if either of the above can be trumped by some knowledge one of you might have.
There are no straight lines, no equal distances or 2 measurements the same; nor full round or ovals, nearly every few mm the shapes of the beams change, as befits timber hand cut and placed over 100 years ago, by rural artisans. On this I don't think draw or flex will be a problem?
Its an interesting challenge for a pro, and I'm going to give it a crack as an am, and hope, with me ol' mates spirit in my bonce, it looks nice once done. So any advice gratefully received.