Hardwall on damp membrane

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open the windows? are you mad? NO NO NO NO NO, hack off the plaster 1 metre up and wrap some plastic around it, use a plaster designed for walls with suction, on a plastic with no suction and that will solve the problem lol
 
nick0412 said:
if u read a bag of hardwall it says doesnt stick to plastic. plus its for high suction. bonding is for low suction ie plastic concrete etc
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and bonding sticks to plastic. NOT. Its not hard lads, its a mechanical key ::)
 
all dpm's are effectively just covering up the damp so I don't see why this wouldn't work. Bit of a pants system for solid plastering though. I mean it's like trying to skim board that has the paper loose which you've stapled in a load of places......of course it's going to bubble. Needs to be more rigid or glued on temp while plaster sets or something ???
 
humm i feel he dint fix it in enuf! but a tight scratch should help it hold.. bit i dont like is we are apply hard wall but the finished effect is like a plasterboard wall as it sounds the same!

and i dont need to worri about the out come as i gave the damp job direct and its all covered under the damp mans grantee. no point in making £100-200 on top as i will be to blame if it all gos tits up.
 
frist time round cost £1500, then this time around £600 for damp man 2 fix and i charged 860 to hack off the old lime lite at 1.4 and bond back up, skim the living room (double size living room)
 
on the subject of how to plaster it the scratch coat layed on about 5mm and allowed to set provides a rigid base with a bit of suction. If you can put some more fixings in any loose bits it will help.
 
Probably have been better in sand and cement, its quicker, cheaper, easier and just as effective.

And no slumpy wobbly walls.
 
sprayit said:
on the subject of how to plaster it the scratch coat layed on about 5mm and allowed to set provides a rigid base with a bit of suction. If you can put some more fixings in any loose bits it will help.
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exactly you cant plaster that in one it does slump weve done basements in this but dabbed it if your going to solid plaster it scratch coat on with bonding let it pick up then either top it with bonding or hardwall then it will be fine
 
monk not telling you how to suck eggs but never top bonding with hard wall mate they shrink at different rates and the hardwall can be pulled off
 
oasis said:
frist time round cost £1500, then this time around £600 for damp man 2 fix and i charged 860 to hack off the old lime lite at 1.4 and bond back up, skim the living room (double size living room)
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Any idea what is causing the damp?
 
wasn't the original question about how to best tackle it who cares whats causing the problem . If you got any sense you will do what you're asked and say nowt unless you want to be involved in the callback. ooo
 
sprayit said:
wasn't the original question about how to best tackle it who cares whats causing the problem . If you got any sense you will do what you're asked and say nowt unless you want to be involved in the callback. ooo
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But doing the plastering, parking your van on the job signed up, an invoice with your firms name on it, taking the original job on (fair enough oasis subbed the DPC side out) surely your getting involved.

Sprayit if your the type of guy to do what your told wether its the right or wrong procedure youve got no sense or balls. I am interested in why its damp, if the original question was how to tackle it surely the damp problem has to come into it?
 
oasis said:
im not sure i will have a read of the report
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Is the job yours or the damp guys?
Did they ring you and you sorted it out and what happened to the guys who done the limelight?
Not relevent to the original post but im a nosey c**t and like asking questions cheers. :)
 
was my job, we found damp, i called damp guy, let him deal direct.. damp man said it failed cuz thye used lime lite and not s&C as it said ON THERE SPEC! had an injection and a S&C spec, the guy couldt be assed to Chase it all up as it was over 6 years ago..

can tell were all bored 2day! iv been 2 work doing my first coving job 2 day!
 
oasis said:
was my job, we found damp, i called damp guy, let him deal direct.. damp man said it failed cuz thye used lime lite and not s&C as it said ON THERE SPEC! had an injection and a S&C spec, the guy couldt be assed to Chase it all up as it was over 6 years ago..

can tell were all bored 2day! iv been 2 work doing my first coving job 2 day!
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You found the damp where? and working easter sunday is sacrilege
 
oasis said:
was my job, we found damp, i called damp guy, let him deal direct.. damp man said it failed cuz thye used lime lite and not s&C as it said ON THERE SPEC! had an injection and a S&C spec, the guy couldt be assed to Chase it all up as it was over 6 years ago..

can tell were all bored 2day! iv been 2 work doing my first coving job 2 day!
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how did it go? i'm skimming a living room then coving it tomorrow so i might take a couple of pics to show you how to scribe the internals if you want?
 
flynnyman said:
oasis said:
frist time round cost £1500, then this time around £600 for damp man 2 fix and i charged 860 to hack off the old lime lite at 1.4 and bond back up, skim the living room (double size living room)
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Any idea what is causing the damp?
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Water
 
well it was wallpapered and that was all comming away the whole lower wall was mold and black and lots of salts.
 
yea stev show us . i started off with a nightmare! couldt get the corners to look good even dow i was using a metal coving triangle thing, after getting a mate 2 take a look it turned out i wasnt cutting the agnles rite, just needed to take more time and expect in an old house that the angles wouldn't always meet tidy so have to step it back abit and fill them in with adhesive. looks ok now.

just a big more stress at first! been a reali stressfull week in all! so much that even in my sleep iv been grinning my teeth and chewing my jaw so bad i cant even eat! wot a prat
 
ok here is teh other sizeof damp wall..


4493678517_22f3df1eb7.jpg




here is the crappy thing flexing after a tight scrach has dryed out


4494318440_6861040a49_b.jpg



here is a vid of it flexing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggZ2YH7Uzw4



and here


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXxyFHBrVko
 
oasis said:
yea stev show us . i started off with a nightmare! couldt get the corners to look good even dow i was using a metal coving triangle thing, after getting a mate 2 take a look it turned out i wasnt cutting the agnles rite, just needed to take more time and expect in an old house that the angles wouldn't always meet tidy so have to step it back abit and fill them in with adhesive. looks ok now.

just a big more stress at first! been a reali stressfull week in all! so much that even in my sleep iv been grinning my teeth and chewing my jaw so bad i cant even eat! wot a prat
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i think the metal triangle coving things are crap. i think mitre boxes are much better
 
nick0412 said:
oasis said:
yea stev show us . i started off with a nightmare! couldt get the corners to look good even dow i was using a metal coving triangle thing, after getting a mate 2 take a look it turned out i wasnt cutting the agnles rite, just needed to take more time and expect in an old house that the angles wouldn't always meet tidy so have to step it back abit and fill them in with adhesive. looks ok now.

just a big more stress at first! been a reali stressfull week in all! so much that even in my sleep iv been grinning my teeth and chewing my jaw so bad i cant even eat! wot a prat
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i think the metal triangle coving things are crap. i think mitre boxes are much better
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y's that? i found i keept cutting it wrong! as in not 100% the angle..
 
find them a bit fiddly. with a mitre box coving sits in the right place and u cut it. the triangle u have to kinda balance it
 
Lath membrane should be fixed at 250mm centres to stop movement, if its moving or flexing a lot its going to cause a problem. 9 times out of 10 dot & dab 9mm board as long as it does'nt protrude from existing wall. If it does coat membrane with scratch coat of bonding and let it set, if you dont it will move and create problems. Then another coat to level off. Also rule it off using the original wall as your level as this is what you're working to. Once thats done bead and skim as normal.

Damp problems should be dealt with by the DPC company and its them that give the guarantee, wall should be injected prior to membrane being installed but thats down to DPC company.

The membrane allows the wall to breath whilst preventing any dampness penetrating the finished wall.
 
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