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FreeD

FreeD

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Hi all

Recently completed 8 week C&G course level 1, have been pushing for work since. Did some flyering door to door today and was pulled in by a lady who was renovating her house.

Talk about jumping in at the deep end! check out the photos...brick work is uneven and heavly painted with gloss.

What do you reckon chip off sections of gloss and dot dab skim? or will bonding stick to gloss? my instructor says nothing will, from my understanding some people on this forum cover whole walls in bonding? i was never taught this at college, surely it sets to quickly, and the finish very hard to get even? have i read this wrong?

or

Paintstrip (no doubt very time consuming) then float coat + skim?

or

screw in wooden battens, board up skim? ::)

What would you guys do to get it flush with door frame? as every other brick is already in line with it, and boarding will bring the wall out at least inch.

thats just the start more photos soon!

What do you guys do if lots of prep work required e.g. radiators to come of wall, curtain rails, coat hangers etc...tell the customer if they don't do it..will cost extra or just price it in?

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cool forum!

cheers Aaron
 
Yep sparky is coming in this week to finish electrics...i was wondering the same, skim was not to good on ceiling...upstairs has been left half done. Poor work generally. Didn't ask her why...maybe i should have done?

How would you tackle it?

Aaron
 
that door liner must be an odd size as a standard one is either 4 1/4" or 5 1/4" i.e 1 x 4"brick + 3/8 render both sides + 1/8 skim both sides... so put a new door liner in...
you can get a needle gun from any hire place, stick it on the gloss it'll key it up so you can hardwall it..
looks like a complete refurb so should be new architrave, skirting...sort electrics (as bod said), the rads no problem just turn off the valves and disconnect the rad from them leaving the valves on the pipes, remove the brackets...still if you aint confident on reconnecting id let a plumber do it, u might need to b end the pipes outward slightly to meet the valves on refitting if you hardwall it...
theres always that wba everyone swears by...got sand in for a key....slap it on the gloss and hardwall it..
if you dab it youll need a wider door liner (not standard) but you can get round that by removing the architrave and 'planting' door stop bead onto it but make sure the door is hung on the opposite side or the hinge screws end up in the gap between the stop bead and the door liner and wont hold, in fact will force off the stop bead...
if thats a kitchen and you aint a part p electrician you cant touch it...well u can but it needs a building notice, a first fix inspection then a part p test...
you could always find her a spark and a plumber so you can get on...
i'd get a deposit though...bod aint daft is he...
p.s looks quite old check it for damp, any salt showing on lower half of wall u got rising damp and it'll manifest itself through whatever you do if left untreated....if its got black spot mould u ok, its condensation...
 
wyas and means. If going to D&D black jack where the damp is. Also if Dot and Dab scutch walls where dabs going. seems like there's gloss paint on some of the walls. By the way i'd skim the ceiling also. Looks pants. Need to find out the source of the damp. Hack of and you could also use dri-coat.
 
any thing wrong with useing bonding on hole walls? hardwall allways seem soft and reacts loads from wot iv done.

and can most damp on lower walls be sorted with thero seal that white or gry paint on stuff..

just wondering..id D&D that job unless they wanted to pay more for a better finish and then is bond the walls and key them up by cuttin all the joints in the brick work with a pice that u put on the grinder..

iv got a new job my self the chimny breast edges are all curved round in the living room not sure how 2 do a curve ...qite a big curve not just the edge...
was thinking of makeing a template to run up and down when sand and cement.
 
you can buy salt repellant from any builders merchants, smells like battery acid, clear liquid but it needs to soad into the bricks, dunno about paint..
i only suggested it might be damp btw, i cant tell from the pics..
if there is salts, chances are its rising damp but it might not be, could be a leaky gutter, ground level too high, rendered to floor outside (bridging dpc), as previously suggested you really need to find the source...
tanking, blackjack(synthaproof, bitumen paint etc) will hold it back but that will stop any suction, not too sure if board adhesive will hold to it, might do though..
if you do blackjack it or whatever it needs to be a complete seal, drilling through it or keying it up in any way will just let the damp back through into the boards..
like i said, if theres no evidence of damp, scabble it up and dab some boards on, easiest and quickest way by far, good luck :cool:
 
Hi all

Many thanks for your replies, i quoted the customer a price for plasterboarding the whole kitchen. I told her that she would have to make the carpenter (for door liner etc) and electrician (sockets) aware that she planned to plasterboard the whole room and that the wall would be brought out apprx 2 inches? is this correct? and that they would have to make the necessary adjustments before plastering.

I'd never heard of a needle gun before but plan to use one on this job (if i get it). So thanks for that.

As for the damp...i'm not sure what i'm looking for but there was black mould...+ white crystals/mould at the bottom, i'm assuming this is because the previous sink unit was positioned there so water running down the back etc may have caused?

Would you guys just make the customer aware of damp and continue with job if asked to? or apply some kind of bitumen before boarding?

Oh yeah sounds like she wasn't happy with the previous plasterers quote way to high...+ unreliable hasn't completed previous jobs.

Now to write up quote.
 
well u have 2 say bout the damp area just incase it ever comes bk 2 you...sumtimes if there is damp i have sode a scrach coat of warterpoof render then dabed on to that..well i got told to do that once or twice anways.
 
the white crystals sound like hydroscopic salts, its in the bricks and the water/damp carries it through to the inside of the building..it could just be water from the gully or where the waste pipe exits through the wall...i'd prolly scrape it off and apply some salt repellant, charge em for it and make em aware...
the mould you found is black spot mould, only grows on distilled water, i.e. condensation, usually found behind things like kitchen units, wardrobes etc where there isnt enough ventilation to allow it to disperse into the atmosphere...50/50 bleach and water will clean it off...
 
FreeD said:
Hi all

Recently completed 8 week C&G course level 1, have been pushing for work since. Did some flyering door to door today and was pulled in by a lady who was renovating her house.

Talk about jumping in at the deep end! check out the photos...brick work is uneven and heavly painted with gloss.

What do you reckon chip off sections of gloss and dot dab skim? or will bonding stick to gloss? my instructor says nothing will, from my understanding some people on this forum cover whole walls in bonding? i was never taught this at college, surely it sets to quickly, and the finish very hard to get even? have i read this wrong?

or

Paintstrip (no doubt very time consuming) then float coat + skim?

or

screw in wooden battens, board up skim? ::)

What would you guys do to get it flush with door frame? as every other brick is already in line with it, and boarding will bring the wall out at least inch.

thats just the start more photos soon!

What do you guys do if lots of prep work required e.g. radiators to come of wall, curtain rails, coat hangers etc...tell the customer if they don't do it..will cost extra or just price it in?

IMG_0645-vi.jpg


IMG_0647-vi.jpg


IMG_0648-vi.jpg


IMG_0650-vi.jpg


IMG_0646-vi.jpg


cool forum!

cheers Aaron
Click to expand...

:rolleyes)
 
Yea I remember what I was like back then...enthusiastic and keen to learn 6 years on this forum I turned into a c**t like the rest of you....although I'm not thick.
 
FreeD said:
Yea I remember what I was like back then...enthusiastic and keen to learn 6 years on this forum I turned into a c**t like the rest of you....although I'm not thick.
Click to expand...


i was a slow night, free d. i was just going through old threads, getting a few laughs. says more about me than you. enthusiasm, new methods, tricks of the trade .... you're right :RpS_thumbup: and you charge a good rate and get it. thats all thats counts :RpS_thumbup:
 
Olican said:
how you been Zombie.....you've been missed bud :RpS_thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Hi Oli,

Thanks bud. Long story fela ref the break and il not bore everyone....

Anyhows been reading and catching up on missed threads and see you've been having some dramas with your back hope your on the mend mate.

And many congrats on your new littlun hope your all doing well!!!

Zombie:RpS_thumbsup:
 
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