Damp stone wall

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Dr.B

Dr.B

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This problem is in my own house on one of the old original stone walls which is 2.5 ft thick.

The place was renovated about 25 yrs ago, the stone walls were meant to be injected (but how can this be done with a stone wall this thick I don't know?) and then have just been dot and dabbed with plasterboard and skimmed.
As of late there has been an increasing level of moisture tracking up the wall about 600mm high and along the length of the wall.

I plan on removing the board and treating the wall and then stud the wall out, insulate, board and skimm.

Any pointers from you damp specialists?
And what can I treat the wall with? Local building control specify synthaprufe quite a lot but I'm not sure if it is bare stone underneath or what? Il find out when I pull the boards off.

Thanks in advance.
 
When you say treat the wall what do you mean? Inject some kind of product or tank it?
 
carlos said:
When you say treat the wall what do you mean? Inject some kind of product or tank it?
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Yes I mean tank it.
I can't see injecting a wall that thick being viable. The middle is probably filled with rubble. I'd be pumping stuff in all day!
 
Deri said:
Yes I mean tank it.
I can't see injecting a wall that thick being viable. The middle is probably filled with rubble. I'd be pumping stuff in all day!
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Injecting stone walls is a waste of time and money
 
I work on a lot of old farm houses with walls that thick and in the past have seen some one inject walls like this and a 25lt drum of kingfisher gear disappeared in 5mins :RpS_laugh:.
Anyway what i usually do is take them back to the stone then build stud wall in front of it using pressure treated and put vapour barrier on the back and tape up edges ( fix top and bottom to avoid bridging) get the sparks and plumbers to do whatever they need to do then insulate tape with silver tape then, board with foil backed and skim. any gaps at the top, bottom or sides of the frame get filled with foam before boarding cos you don't want warm air meeting the cold
 
raggles said:
I work on a lot of old farm houses with walls that thick and in the past have seen some one inject walls like this and a 25lt drum of kingfisher gear disappeared in 5mins :RpS_laugh:.
Anyway what i usually do is take them back to the stone then build stud wall in front of it using pressure treated and put vapour barrier on the back and tape up edges ( fix top and bottom to avoid bridging) get the sparks and plumbers to do whatever they need to do then insulate tape with silver tape then, board with foil backed and skim. any gaps at the top, bottom or sides of the frame get filled with foam before boarding cos you don't want warm air meeting the cold
Click to expand...

that injection fluid is fu@kin pricey as well..................:RpS_lol:
 
raggles said:
I work on a lot of old farm houses with walls that thick and in the past have seen some one inject walls like this and a 25lt drum of kingfisher gear disappeared in 5mins :RpS_laugh:.
Anyway what i usually do is take them back to the stone then build stud wall in front of it using pressure treated and put vapour barrier on the back and tape up edges ( fix top and bottom to avoid bridging) get the sparks and plumbers to do whatever they need to do then insulate tape with silver tape then, board with foil backed and skim. any gaps at the top, bottom or sides of the frame get filled with foam before boarding cos you don't want warm air meeting the cold
Click to expand...

So I don't necessarily need to tank the wall?

I could also put in a couple of vents in to circulate air behind the stud and help evaporate any dampness?
 
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