can anyone advise me

Iv been rendering for 17 years and just invested in a machine. My question is to do with the gun, how far back do you have air nozzle on 14mm cap for best results? Im doing a weber chaulk job and although im new to spraying i feel as though it could be preforming better. It seems to fart alot but if the gear was any wetter it would sag down the wall. Any spray application advise would be great. thanks
 
Iv been rendering for 17 years and just invested in a machine. My question is to do with the gun, how far back do you have air nozzle on 14mm cap for best results? Im doing a weber chaulk job and although im new to spraying i feel as though it could be preforming better. It seems to fart alot but if the gear was any wetter it would sag down the wall. Any spray application advise would be great. thanks
Screenshot_2023-04-20-21-36-35-24_680d03679600f7af0b4c700c6b270fe7~2.jpg
 
Iv been rendering for 17 years and just invested in a machine. My question is to do with the gun, how far back do you have air nozzle on 14mm cap for best results? Im doing a weber chaulk job and although im new to spraying i feel as though it could be preforming better. It seems to fart alot but if the gear was any wetter it would sag down the wall. Any spray application advise would be great. thanks



They used to do a key/gauge to set it. I think it 14mm back for a 14mm hole.
 
Iv been rendering for 17 years and just invested in a machine. My question is to do with the gun, how far back do you have air nozzle on 14mm cap for best results? Im doing a weber chaulk job and although im new to spraying i feel as though it could be preforming better. It seems to fart alot but if the gear was any wetter it would sag down the wall. Any spray application advise would be great. thanks
shut up GIF
 
It should be the same distance back as the diameter of the hole apparently have you tried maybe making the mix a little stiffer if you’re worried about it running down the walls
 
It should be the same distance back as the diameter of the hole apparently have you tried maybe making the mix a little stiffer if you’re worried about it running down the walls
Hi mate, appreciate the reply. That's what i was told when i had the training as well. Yeah i played around with the gear a lot and eventually found it going on really nice. just the transition from hand appling i guess. thanks again.
 
The hight of the bit with the hole in it plus the hole or just use a gage key from pft
And if it's farting you are settling it up wrong what machine is it
 
The hight of the bit with the hole in it plus the hole or just use a gage key from pft
And if it's farting you are settling it up wrong what machine is it
m200 mate. I think i had it slightly dry as im now having success with it wetter. Im still learning machine application but its obviously a complete change of method from hand applying in terms of material consistency. Can i ask what bead thickness you would use with rendaid then top coat? would you be looking to cover in one pass or two? thanks
 
m200 mate. I think i had it slightly dry as im now having success with it wetter. Im still learning machine application but its obviously a complete change of method from hand applying in terms of material consistency. Can i ask what bead thickness you would use with rendaid then top coat? would you be looking to cover in one pass or two? thanks
You should be using 15mm beads really but you can get 13mm beads use either of these and yes I cover top coat in one pass
If it's misfiring you may be setting up with slightly too much water I use pft machines but with the ritmo that's the reason it would ever misfire it's a setup fault not a cap issue
 
You should be using 15mm beads really but you can get 13mm beads use either of these and yes I cover top coat in one pass
If it's misfiring you may be setting up with slightly too much water I use pft machines but with the ritmo that's the reason it would ever misfire it's a setup fault not a cap issue
thanks for the reply. iv got the hang of it now! user error lol
 
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