Arti
Well-Known Member
lets just leave it a spread.........................I'm surprised he even said average ,I'll take that
Bonding or Hardwall
- Thread starter Adrianwingate
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Smudger1
Well-Known Member
May not be popular with some on here but last few celcon skins I've sbr50/50 then scratched n floated S&C before skimming no problem ! It was tiled for shower after and for units on others, I prefer them on solid background where possible. No cracks maybe just lucky aye ?
Vincey
Private Member
To be fair think the guy who posted thread was a bit unsure cuz his builder said bonding coat and plasterer said hardwall,
Know I would just listen to whatever plasterer said he wants to do.
Plasterers plaster.
Builders build.
Electricians do electrics.
Plumbers plumb.
Painters paint.
User___removed
Well-Known Member
I would dot and dab.a decent kitchen fitter would know what fixings to use
If not hardwall and skim
If the background is poor mesh the first pass
If not hardwall and skim
If the background is poor mesh the first pass
vfr12
MOTORC*NT
Customers customise
it's the last nail in the coffin
And who's fault is when goes wrong?
Adrianwingate
New Member
I'm not customising. I've just been told of two options and want sure which to go for. Now I've got three options.
What's reason u dnt like dot and dab Adrian?
Adrianwingate
New Member
I like things to be totally solid. I bought a new build about 15 years ago and when I moved I promised myself never to buy a house that had walls that were plasterboard.
I never hung anything up on my new build. I hated it.
I just prefer totally solid walls.
Thank you for asking though.
Ye but If you get duraline boards and tell them to solid band the walls and put loads of dots in between it will be solid as f**k..or and never ever buy a new build trust me
Bet there are a lot of homeowners with 18inches of floodwater in ground floor wish they didn't have dot and dab, two coat C&S internal about to come back in a big way I reckon, could be a good thread in it actually."
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Nah dot and dab is king it always will be now and if your house was flooded with That dirty water etc ud still need to hack it off anyway and start again as s**t wud still get into the backing coat
Vincey
Private Member
Hi Adrian now we have all gave you some great advice from all over the country any chance you could take 3 or 4 photos and upload them for us all to see the job.?
Thanks Vince
I bet walls are a mile out,sockets mounted on walls and pipes not chase in and still needs floating or and snots every where
Pug
Well-Known Member
Seems odd to be paying the same rate though. I've got a mate who can board a 3 bedroom house in as many days on his tod. Get a couple of skimmers following him and you'd be quids in.
Vincey
Private Member
vfr12
MOTORC*NT
not in your case, I agree! We all had these customers trying to cut corners , but all they do is cutting short to disaster.
D
Deleted member 23452
Guest
With a lot of building materials and techniques familiarity and confidence are more of an issue than standards. Personally on a new build/extension I don't see that there is a better or worse choice between float and set or dabbed boards. That said, if the inner leaf is thermalite block then I would go for dabbed board as no matter what you put onto thermalites it's never going to be a 'solid' wall in the true sense.
That leads on to the subject of money. If your preference is for a solid construction then the inner leaf should be 7n blocks or brick. The thermal loss issue then has to be mitigated by thicker or higher grade insulation which can require a larger cavity with the associated wider footing. All of which makes for a more expensive construction method that needs to be discussed and quoted for before the first shovel is put in the ground.
That leads on to the subject of money. If your preference is for a solid construction then the inner leaf should be 7n blocks or brick. The thermal loss issue then has to be mitigated by thicker or higher grade insulation which can require a larger cavity with the associated wider footing. All of which makes for a more expensive construction method that needs to be discussed and quoted for before the first shovel is put in the ground.
Vincey
Private Member
Nicely put ...so @Adrianwingate can you post pictures so this can be assessed.
Gosh I can't wait to get back to work.
Andy0705
Active Member
Two coats of S&C comes up lovely internal, in flood prone builds keep sockets up three feet and a good quality external paint, try fibre glass apron with cement board + 2coat S&C on ground floor partitions, only issue I see is that insurers will pay to replace but not to upgrade, in present flooding event this needs looking at by insurance ombudsman.
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the insurance cos. have no say in the matter. they hand the problem over to lose adjusters who inturn hand the building work over to structural engineers as the work has got to be completed to a decent spec and standard.
The insurance companies I have sent quotations to directly will only cover like for like compensation.
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yes they do on small works.
Andy0705
Active Member
If sand cement is mixed and installed correctly it's good externally application of stress patches is a must , thing is house are thrown up now got no allowance for movement etc so can crack after a few years .
Never seen sand cement with mesh don't know if anyone else has used it ?
We've used rolled mesh on s&c on refurb renders where its ok brick and previous been hacked off..sbr walls 1st then scratched and meshed with plain face finish..makes it solid as a rock
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