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Heard these are just coated in stainless steel so once scratched potentially rust.? I use upvc all the time but we have a conservation officer specifying stainless beads and i see no advantage whatsoever over upvc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnsS_bwVeOw Anyone know where I can get one of these from

Looking to purchase one for spray applying spatterdash or scud coats...wondered if anyone has used one, if there any good, or if there's a better model in the refina range thanks J

Lime plaster failure..(tadelakt, marmorino, carrara etc etc etc) 90% of the time will be due to..1) Fault of the applicator...2.) incorrect system to which it has been applied to..(bad substrate prep).....the applicator seldom accept they have made an error and then start blaming the...

Lime eating in to sandstone!!!!!!??????:RpS_lol:.. well I thought I'd heard it all...wow!!!!! and PVA instead of sbr for external use!!!!!:RpS_cursing:... Seriously Please if you CLEARLY don't understand the materials you are using do not give wrong advice and mislead people. Over time...

A japanese shikkui master...wow!! thats quit a title.....so, we've gone from clay and now its shikkui...and a master of shikkui....do u mean a master of distribution and 'sales', marketing????...or as an applicator???....because to be refered to as a master!!...well u must have been using this...

A japanese shikkui master...wow!! thats quit a title.....so, we've gone from clay and now its shikkui...and a master of shikkui....do u mean a master of distribution and 'sales', marketing????...or as an applicator???....because to be refered to as a master!!...well u must have been using this...

Ok in the tubs before application, yes, any lime plaster which has been slaked from pure burnt quicklime in to calcium hydroxide is now at ph 13...this is chemically the same in marmorino and ANY pure non hydraulic lime plaster on the market, be that from Coverit, Domus Aurea or Mike Wye's in...

Lime plasters once carbonated to calcium carbonate are fairly neutral, around ph 7.5 to 8. What makes their environments resistant to bacteria and moulds is the function of breathability which allows oxygen in and out (a natural disinfactant) to kill bacteria. However where applicators are...

Technically a solid wall has more benefits and advantages than a plasterboard wall (if done properly substrate prep to the finish). With regards price, dot n dab will always be the solution for low budget systems and plasterers who want to turn around jobs quick. Personnaly i prefer float and...

looks ace!!...u say boarded and skimmed, have u formed the curves with bonding on the boards or used the boards to form the curves...heard of a few effective techniques using boards like cutting ribs in the back to arch them and even slightly wetting the boards, leave over night to bend in to...

I've got a job to look at which from the clients description has not gone well at all from a previous applicator and are looking for this to be re done. I asked what products the applicator used and they said he was using stucco italiano classic with the addition of farrel & ball emulsion for...

absolutley agree with that comment and from much appreciated advice i'm using a proper resin primer...as for the plaster, coverit venezia 24/7 carrara and classic...sealers and wax are thomsons waterseal, cera wax, parrafic wax...

Also i have a tub of bees wax from about 2 years ago still in its pot...is this still ok to use or would it now be no good??

Is there a specialist primer required for venetian plasters or is WBA or Blue grit ok to use??

Thanks mike:RpS_thumbsup:...i used a stone sealer on my own bathroom before aplying the bees wax and a buff (just the natural white marmorino) it tinted it a bit tho, so i've been a bit hesitant about sealers...hence the post...so thomsons waterseal is ok then...how is that applied and how long...

Not done a great deal of venetian, only about 3 or 4 feature walls, chimey breasts in my time....been asked to do 2 bathrooms, so thought i'd ask the experts on here what the most waterproof and durable system is for splash back areas...currently use carrara for the base, 2 polish coats of...

tried to search online for a supplier for marble flour but no joy...does your supplier do different grades of the dust...i like to use carara for my base which has a slightly larger aggregate which gives it a bit more durability than the marmorino which i follow on with the polish coats...

looking to get back on with a tyzack after i had my nicked about a year ago...worked with these marshaltowns for a while now and even with them nicely warn in i still prefer the old tyzacks....any suppliers, ideally Tyzack themselves that anyone can link me to would be greatley appreciated as...

these days there just is'nt the opportunity for young people to learn the trade properly...very few young lads will get on board with a time served all rounded plasterer who is willing to bring them on over the years..anyone who does is very fortunate...but then in my eyes you make your own luck...

i've found it difficult to accuratley differentiate between multi and board as no 2 job conditions are the same and no 2 bags from any 2 suppliers will always be the same (production dates, conditions its been stored etc etc). there is an underlying chemistry with these products with many...

damp is most commonly a problem in old buildings as in most new builds when cements or gypsum plasters or non breathable paints are introduced....either that or the source will be water penetrating through leaking gutters or gaps or cracks in the walls, door or windows.....the approach is to...

its certainly not a great solution for damp walls or damp rooms..the hydraulic mix gets around this, but still needs carefull attention...we had a nightmare on a job in buckingham few years back with a firm who decided to try to speed things up with heaters...just baked it and it failed...got...

keen's or casting plaster will be a lot easier to get ya hands on, prestia fine stuff thru southwestern, about £10 a bag is the best...great stuff to have in ya van anyway for speading up the process of making good...

yes the slurry coat is a good method of controlling suction too, forgot to add that and key also.....where a gypsum internal meats a lime internal it will crack over time, as with a ceiling line for obvious reasons...if u want something more compatable with the gypsum, then use keen's cement...

yes the primer mike wye does is very good, bit pricey tho....just as better off using bondit or wba, same principle...it is dangerous territory lime on plasterboard...lime is hygroscopic, it attracts moisture to its cell spaces then releases it regulating humity in a room...moisture with gypsum...

u should be ok with skimming fine stuff...ty mawr do the best pre mix or mike wye...about £8 for a bag which will do 3m2...control the suction a tad with a mist spray..its a tight first coat, literally scraping it on, then another tight 1 over that, wait for it to pick up, then scour with a...

I'd float it, rub up and apply the tyrolean the same day

there is a lot more to learn and it takes understanding and patience...u could bring on a gypsum plasterer to lime top coating and they would adapt to that in a couple of weeks...but it does take a few years to really get a feel for 2 and 3 coat work and vernacular work....there is so much more...

a corner rake...??? the only thing i can imagine any kind of plane being used for is scratching back to create a textured finish..like with mono renders...when floating, the internals are formed with a square when wet off ya adjacent levelled screeds and or adjacent external angle bead...if ya...

when a plasterers talkin about sanding down a finish its either jekyl gear or a jekyl plasterer

All the sites i've been on in the last 7 years snag u on anything that is'nt up to standard..u either don't get payed and chucked off site or you will be back to put it right in your own time...floating tolerances, misses, reveal measurements etc etc...any excuse to **** over the subbies and the...

site work (commercial work) requires experience and skill to hit the meterage expected to commercial standards, which is scrutinised!!...all work has to be bang on!! or it will not be passed and you will not be getting payed....if a spread has experience in commercial work u know they're...

sounds like a goodun Ian...i'm on £3 at the mo..5.50 float n set...workin on a site in bicester, big project 30 odd units to do, old m.o.d refurb...started today, board work was like this which really does amaze me being on site...i don't get how this kinda shite gets passed when our work gets...

will be getting one very soon...once used to flatten down the 2nd coat, do u still wet and dry trowel with a steel as normal or does it leave the finish nice just with the speedskim...these spats on the pole look the business for ceilings..so am i correct in saying the speedskims can be attached...

let me get this straight your still yet to finish a plastering course and your writting a guide...are u for real?? unbelievable!!

stipple coats or splatter dash coats...never seen the necessity myself on substates which already have key & suction, like concrete block or thermalite...the only time i use it is on really soft stone or house brick and thats using lime where key is paramount.... thermalite being such hi...

same here..depends on the aggregate being used with lime...the void ratio will dictate what ratio of binder that should be gauged...

Nice work m8!! nice corners...the job i did with ty mawr's fine hemp lime produced a more light green finish in the end, yours seems to have gone off a nice white/cream colour??...Did u protect round the masonry and all adjacent timber??

good question...with non hydraulic lime u can still come back the following day with it green and carry on...top coating would need to be done all in 1....NHL is different as u have the hydraulic set...u can close in fissues and shrinkage cracks the following day but a break on a facade would be...

is there anywhere that sells these

he may have no breaks and have to do all 50m2 tho

fantastic job!! Question about your corners...do you float the wall first then work up to a straight edge on the corner, or vice versa?? hand formed all the corners for a garage i did recently which were very slightly rounded...ended up having to do the whole 3 facades 40m2 in total all in 1 due...

same principles apply for assssing the background and substrate of any render system, don't get miselad by the product names thinkin they require anything differnt in assessing this, as it does'nt....analyse the coating currently on there first for blown areas and if it is suitable to recieve a...

Corners, edges, make such a huge difference to every job being the first aspect of a room or facade that the human eye will pick up...well most human eyes lol....If taping up is required to work quick to adjacent areas which are to be left as they are, some surfaces (wood, plastic, painted...

sorry that link does'nt go to thew pic i wanted.. its the pic under easton neston, guy running the rule

Is this a fixed curved runner??? Skillingtons | Gallery | Plastering

and where u can buy them from cheers

Anyone knows what size (litres) those big blue site butts are...wanted to get one to rip in half for mixin hardwall for float and set work...cheers

CKJ I like to make people think in a constructive positive way towards the trade as a whole...the sort of nonsence you write about eco products needed to be pulled apart and put straight....it clearly changed your tone in your reply, which puts a smile on my face The main thing that got my...