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After finishing my kitchen wall, I'm finding that the finish is very powdery, and can rub my finger across it and the powder has come off, I've found this on a few of the walls Ive done, always thought it was because i was using too much water while troweling, but now am using very little...

Do you guys always go over 2nd pva coat when its tacky? Ive always left both glue coats to dry as the scrapped artex gives out a good mechanical key, and it gives you that little bit longer to work the ceiling

PVA does 2 things, seals the wall, and creates a chemical key. If the paint holds back the water well, then you could either give it a weak coat of PVA and leave it to dry, the another and skim when tacky. Or you could give it 1 good coat of 3-1 and skim when its tacky

You could always give your screeds a quick rub up before floating the middle areas

Plat, might be a daft question, but did you use 1 coat of PVA or 2 coats?

So you just use the stabaliser, then pva once, and skim when tacky then?

Thanks for that Segs, 1 more question though mate. Going on from this thread were the homeowner is going to brick up the hole. How would you install this vent if you were going to float up the wall. Would you tell the customer to leave the right gap in the brickwork or just get customer to sort...

I prefer to staple them where possible, so much easier than mixing a tiny bit of bonding/skim etc

Where abouts would you put the vent?

No probs mate. Enjoy it, its a nice little job that. Let us know how you get on ;D

Depends if your gonna D+D the patch of float it with hardwall/bonding. If your gonna D+D i'd use 12.5mm board and you'll need about 10mm for the adhesive so you want bricks layed about 22.5mm back from flush, the scrim joints, PVA 3:1 exsisting wall (no need to PVA plasterboard) and skim it...

I think I was troweling with too much pressure. Trowel was fairly flat to the wall, wasnt much of an angle on it. The wall was cheesey when I troweled although there was still a lot of water and the plaster was still soft, prob should have left it another 5 mins. Wall was old plaster, no paint...

Ive been having a real big problem with the first trowel when skimming a wall, the plaster had nearly set by the time I had finished today, every time I trowel over an area and fill in I create more gauls to fill, I'm using enough water as plaster not dragging. Got really frustrated with it in...

was using one. But its a nightmare to use along the joists, and the joist cutting is what took up most of the time.

how do you guys cut out patches on boarded ceilings. Was fixing a 200mm hole in a bellied section of a ceiling, and cutting along the joist was a right ball ache. Took me about an hour to cut a 780mm square hole.

Ive been having it here this morning, the top part of the page with the 'Plasterers Forums' and my account details show up instantly, but the rest of the page wasnt loading. although if I pressed the 'home' button it the page would come up fine. It seems fine now though.

Thanks for the replys guys.

Alright guys, just a quick question, What PVA strength do you guys use for your 2 coats of PVA on matt emulsion? Cheers

haha, bet you wouldnt be saying that if you saw a photo of my ugly mug. ;D

Oh, it is a lintel then, lol. Thanks for the quick reply nicksey

I'm boarding out our new porch, problem being that above where the door is is a small sheet of metal on the door reveal (sorry, dont know the specific name), so i'm guessing that the adhesive wont stick to it, so whats the best method to attach the board to it?

What a disaster that was  :(  Didnt cut the hole out as square as I thought, so the board just didnt fit in properly, there were some hge gaps around the edging.  Hate boarding ceilings.

Think i'm gonna run with this, will the individual laths take the weight of the board + skim? There could be a lot of weight on 1 lath, and next to nothing on the lath next to it. Mind you, i suppose the weight of board is a lot less than the weight of set bonding.

Old style ceilings, pre plasterboard era, usuually found in old houses (in this case a terrace house), the ceiling has joists, then lotsof small batons of timber running square against the joists (laths), then a backing plaster is used to fill in the gaps between the laths and give depth...

hmmm, not sure if the board would fit over the top, it could quite well do!!! i did think of that, but dismissed it thinking there wasnt enough depth without actaully measuring the gap between the lath and excisting ceiling. That could save a lot of work though. If I need bonding, i'll just...

Thanks for the help segs,  :) Havent got any cement at the moment, would a splash of pva or dirty water do fine for helping it pull in quicker? EDIT: Final question (i promise  ;)), with or against the laths with bonding?

No, def dont want it on the floor!!!  :o How much would you put on (to what depth) and how long would you leave it for before building it up?

Dont know the exact dimensions, but the ceiling is very big, otherwise i would have recomended it (its a long terraced house kitchen) Is there any special way to bonding coat into the laths, do I just get it inbetween the laths and get it level, leave it to firm up, then build up the depth, or...

Alright guys, Ive got a water damaged lath and plaster ceiling repair to do, its about 2mx1m.  Ive squared up the hole, and hacked off the previous plaster.  Some of the laths are water damaged due to a boiler leak (which has been repaired), but there still quite strong. What would you guys...

Is there any easier way to cut damaged ceiling boards out of a ceiling, other than with a hammer, knife and board saw and just hacking away to it falls, any easier tips out there, it seems to take me hours? thanks

scratch and float the same day do you mean? Thanks for the help segs, muchly appreciated!

Would you still put an sbr surry on first? Do you mean put the stop beading all around the panel, or just on the brick area?

Its not cladding, thats where the render is (the pics not the house, just a very similar bungalow, that I found off google as an example)   The panel is 3 metres along the vertical. I'm gonna hack off all the render, prob drill lots of holes, then hack it off with a chisel.  And yes, by...

Firstly, i'm not a highly experienced external renderer, I'm still building battons then filling in the middle to build the wall.  Ive got a small job (which looks very similar to the pic below, except there is render where that PVC is) which requires me rendering a small panal on a gable wall...

Cheers Bigsegs, would you recommend keying, pva, then tight coat of bondit and board skim.

Alright guys, How do you all re skim over gloss paint, I heard of a few methods, one being PVA days before the job, then pva on the day and skim. And another method being sand the wall to give it a key, then PVA and skim. Thanks for any help.

Sorry, to come across daft, but how would you vent it the flue?

Google, think I just searched 'plastering' and the site was near the top.

I'm 22 and doing a City and Guilds plastering course, and trying to get as much experience and knowledge as I can. I find these forums very helpful, ive learnt guite a lot from it :) Good work guys!

By better, I mean there are allegedly more facilities in the one I am at, but there are approx 20 students per teacher, and not enough walls, its happened twice were Ive rendered a wall one week, come to it the next to find someone else has already skimmed it >:( All of us students are at...

Yeah, The college I'm at is supposed to be better than our local college, I'm not convinced though. It is pretty much a shambles!

Thanks for the help guys. Much appreciated, I understand it now. The course is a joke, proplem being there are too many people enrolled on it, so tutors swampt all the time.

Hi, alright guys. I'm fairly new to Plastering, I'm doin an adult City & Guilds course. I'm picking up the skills really well, but the problem I have is that the tutors dont explain the theory behind whats happening, they just tell us what to do next. My main brain puzzler is the whole suction...