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It's the windows on an old victorian number, lime pointed bricks, so the damp can breathe out the walls as it should do, no worries patching with s & C then. It's a tricky job, i'll need to build it up to get the lines and make it contingent. Just want to be sure it sticks !

I was wondering if any of you have experience patching sandstone (to be painted obv), dunno whether to use pva or sbr, and any other tips ? Some of it's so far gone I'll need to mesh and shutter it out . The lady's been quoted about 40 grand to re[lace with new stone, and that's not an option...

Anyone got any leads for foreign work, preferably in Holland/Germany? How do you find out about jobs abroad? Much appreciated for any info, I've got itchy feet...cheers.

http://www.lime.org.uk/products/mortars-and-plasters/lime-plasters/premixed-fat-lime-internal-finish-plaster/ tank it downstairs, skim it upstairs, but this product looks handy if you want to keep it traditional ;)

http://www.ribaproductselector.com/Product.aspx?ci=6375&pr=Rockwool-RockShieldSystem and what grandwizard said .

http://www.ribaproductselector.com/Product.aspx?ci=6375&pr=Rockwool-RockShieldSystem

i did mine a few months ago as part of the osat and didn't revise at all, but in the waiting room before going in had a quick look at a colour coded fire extinguisher poster..f.king piece of piss, total common sense. anyone that fails it must be thick as fook

go to any hardware shop and buy a small bag of one coat plaster for about 2 quid. this will be sufficient for your needs. as far as hydaulic lime goes it'd harder to source and i don't think it comes in any less than 25kg bags...but yes you just mix it dry with sand, usually 3 : 1 to form a...

dpc inside and french ditch/landscape the exterior.a liquid membrane would work well in between your cement scratch and a coat of bonding b4 you skim it.

dickies.or on a tuesday my yellow polka dot bikini

or even spray it all with s & c, dead easy if you've got the kit ;)

oasis tell him hes a dick for buying it and that you could fix it for a fee...light butter and throw some more stones at it

never two coated since college..unless im asked to do it and even then i one coat when noones looking hee hee

for fucks sake just use the good ones youve always got a couple of benders left over to throw in the skip or poke someone in the eye with anyway.

i always carry a zippo

i mean it's easy to see if it's got any dings on it

if you want to see any imperfections on your trowel then look at it in front of your tft whilst reading this :D it's easy to e if it's bent or not!

well at least our mark up on sourcing materials will go up accordingly

Put cards up in pubs. but not phone boxes. :D

i'd do this job in a day - no need for a skip either just chuck the s**t in to an old ton bag in the back of the van and drop off on the way home.

why dont you just take the high spots off and skim it, otherwise start at the edges and guess in 60's, unless its lime and lathe in which case youre better off pulling it down and re boarding on to new sticks

depends on timing...if it's still green then it'll suck less giving you more time...whereas if you've bonded it the day before you'll have to move faster...and if it was a rush to the boozer on a friday afternoon an its dry you may need to pva it before skim on the monday

thanks render systems, lets just hope the weather behaves itself lol .'-)

cheers mate, how long will it hang around for?

Hello lads ;D i usually just do board and skim work these days, but have just got the job of re-pointing the outside of an old stone converted church with lime mortar. i've looked in to it and it seems i've to use hydraulic lime 3.5, which is all well and good...i understand that it's to be...

Ey up do any of you know where i can get a decent hard case or bag for all my trowels, i've been chucking them all in various buckets willy nilly and noticed yesterday that my prized 13" skim trowel had a wee nick leaving lines as a result :'( think i'd better get more organised

quality of life in this country's a fook of a lot better than some other places you should count yersel lucky

mate you can bet your last bag a multi that this guy's been thru the yellow pages gettin quotes off other spreads an you must have put in a favourably , theres thrifty folk in all cultures, yeh some more than others granted but these piss takin chancing ***** will always be the worst part of...

good luck with it mate should be a doddle if ya prep it right ;)

run your finger along it, if its powdery thats not a good sign could be old distemper, sucks like f**k an you run the risk of it coming down on your head in one big sheet soon even after liberal coatings of pva it just sucks the juice that gets behind it an hey presto :'( However if it feels...

personally mate i wouldn't overboard, as you say cut back to joists patch then make sure theres no play or dampness anywhere,scrim, then just PVA or use bondit depending on the artex - scrape off high spots with a floof scraper, you will have to get right in there with a sharp scraper round the...

wonder why that is ? same with cement like, not so bad when concreting cos ya dont need so much time. i spose its cos the lime goes off or sommit.maybe a handful lime to bring it back? :-/

anyone ever used some seriously out of date multi and got away with it? :D

oops bit pished :D meant to say im well prepped providing it dosent slash it down monday or snow ha ha last thing i need is another "administrative" day :-X ;)

f**king h i never expected all these replys you guys but it certainly has been a crash course in the dos an donts of rendering!!!!!! ::) I feel well prepped for Monday mornin now .i since found out that there are indeed expansion brackets going in so the sections should be nae bother got a guy...

dude i'm inspired! there's light at the end of the tunnel :'( :-* :-* ;) anyone want alook at that site it's http://www.pomsinoz.com/

Hello all! I haven't got that much experience rendering large areas, that's not to say that what i have done's turned out alright with a sponge float! Anyway, ive got the whole exterior of a newbuild to do. front and back's no problem but i'm worried the two side walls are too big for me to do...

Well alg, how did your project turn out? - did you even manage to complete yet given the wet weather up here? I'm based in Arran, been doing mostly indoor work recently....

Roughcasting .! :-/ Anyone got any experience with it any tips tricks of the trade? I mainly do skimmin and plain faced rendering, done a bit of pebbledash but never had to do any roughcasting til now.... any help appreciated .. are there any demos online at all? cheers.

I always just work out how long its gonna take, then work out how much i want for it and then divide that by the number of metres. If you need the work you may have to come down a bit on what you want for it.

I reckon the cement backing was incorrectly gauged, too much cement that may account for the cracking/ movement. Just chip off any shitey bits with a floor scraper and then stanley V/ scrim the cracks before re skimming. Shoul;d do the trick, after initial movement the backing should have...

Ya gotta joint fill perfectly flat then seal the whole wall before painting otherewise ya get stripes!

roller in each hand :D

luckily they've only papered over a few choice areas where the joints are particularly crap. should be able to get the paper off alright in time, just didn't notice when i priced it up. Oh well we live and learn :'(

it's as i feared then a warm sponge and elbow grease! i had hoped there was some miracle product that would soak through the painted paper and bond witht the board beneath. oh well i'll just get on with it then and think of the dosh ;) thanks for advice lads

i've got a job skimming over some painted lining paper. the board joints have been very badly taped and overfilled, every joint is cracked may'be not even taped then, and you can see the ***kin bulge. What a load of s**t >:( Anyway, i don't like scraping is there any other way to deal with it ...

sweep old path down, remove any loose bits, dust etc then splatter a cement slurry to provide your key. The depth should be as deep as poss to prevent shrinkage/cracking, a minimum of 50mm, cover with polythene or keep perpetually wet once it's tamped and floated. ;)

just put a plank on top the wall and render up to it to get your edge, let go off a bit and then make good on top, float up. Alternatively you could just put copains on and render up to them.. how high is it?

i always use a roller for a nice thin and even coat of pva