Whole house blown. re plaster!

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oasis

oasis

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have an insurance job do next week. in oldish house were maybe the walls were already blowen a bit but shes had a new heating system fitted and some how they cranked the p 2 much in one go and end resualt in all the walls having loads of cracks in them and sounding blown.

we have to strip back to brick and redo..

my question is would it better 2 dab boards on or use hardwall?
 
if you are working to door frames,you might not be able to dot and dab,i would dot and dab but if not possible sand/cement with or without lime depending on preference.my mix would be 6:1:1 and then multi-finish.
 
down to the fixtures and fittings really, you aint always gonna get away with dabbing it. also its prob best to replace like for like in this case
 
ask the customer what they want,

1. tough walls that will withstand a few knocks at a more costly price or

2. boarded and skimmed, which we all know get damaged alot easier but for less the price.

if you board it and have trouble around the door frames but some lenths of lath and bring the frame out to suit where you sit they board, fidley but attention like this leaves a good impression.
 
well the reason i ask the question is. what is more likely to crack say for some reason they bang loads of heat out again. will board joints crack on dabs as sometimes they randomly do or will hardwall be less likely to crack, S&C iv read on here allways cracks?

we can strip back first and see if we have room to dab?

thanks for quick replies!
 
frames no probs go to wicks you can buy some nice planed wood strips they come in 2.4 lengths set them back about 10 mm then the new arc sit s bang on i always do it and on over skims too if they are having new woodwork .don't take long to do either
 
richie said:
frames no probs go to wicks you can buy some nice planed wood strips they come in 2.4 lengths set them back about 10 mm then the new arc sit s bang on i always do it and on over skims too if they are having new woodwork .don't take long to do either
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Yeh that's what i do too when i have to,
I set them back 5-10mm from edge of door casing board up to this & skim,
then architrave will be set back around 5mm.
Looks good when all painted up ;)
 
pristineplastering said:
Cant speak for others, but theres no way I'd be Hardwalling an entire house !!! Too much hassle

Dab em chief
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"To much hassle", Jesus you're supposed to be a plasterer ???
No plasterer worth his salt should ever recommend dot & dab over solid plastering ever :mad:
And sand and cement definitely doesn't always crack Oasis.
 
Plastering changing home boy so get with it , know need for this so solid stuff anymore ,just dab round da rads .
 
I would never recommend Dot and Dab to anyone, I have heard their plastering is sh1t!!

Just a joke Oasis take no offence.

I personally dont think Dot and Dab has any place in an old house.

I did it to my living room and really regret it.
 
someone let me come and help them do some wet plastering for a couple of days if they're near me? we very rarely get to do it and i'd love someone to show me their method and let me loose on a couple of rooms.
 
give them the option - solid walls are best for obvios reasons...make sure you check for damp also...personally i'd float and set 6:1:1 sand and cement if they pay for it cause I like doing that best! you could also hardwall...if not dot and dab cheap quick and effective but boring!
 
i would never dot and dat unless i had no other choice. i think its for cowboys

pristineplastering. was just looking at your site. looks good. but what is that scratch coat about? ???
 
nick0412 said:
i would never dot and dat unless i had no other choice. i think its for cowboys

pristineplastering. was just looking at your site. looks good. but what is that scratch coat about? ???
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Must of left the afro-comb at home!Anyway would float and set mate.
 
With hardwall u can get the job done quicker but what I'm reali after is witch is less likely to crack again.?
 
Its hard to guarentee that nothing will crack as you never know what movement will be in the house but there are options you have to try and prevent it, if SnC try using fibres in the mix and EML all cracks.
 
If i was you oasis,id be wanting to know for sure why the cracks happend before i even thought about which method to use.
A hole house doesnt just crack and blow for any reason unless its age related or a more serious underline problem.The insurance wont pay for old age related plaster repair.
A new heating system wont make old plaster crack and fall off either unless the house was left cold and damp for many months than got lots of heating whih i doubt very much.
Sounds odd to me,id board it all mate less chance of problems later on.
If you do insurance work its gotta be done right,cus theyl chase you if theres any problems,you will have to put them right even after decoration work then ul have to put that right.
 
you said you knew the cause of the cracks, going by what your saying sand and cement or hardwall should be fine...but if for example its and old building with lots of movement and the walls are prone to cracking check nxt door etc...then plasterboard is the better option. Sound like a good job get a nice high price in!
 
just do it the proper way...
this is what i do, knock off all plaster-thistle bond it all walls then eml all walls, then bonding coat all walls with fibres in the bonding, first coat walls with dura finish then mesh all walls then second coat with dura finish.... bomb proof! ;D
 
OK thanks, well basically iv worked in the house before and skimed the odd room (here we go its all my fault lol) but the walls were never in that good a shape as and they sounded a bit blowen last time. i skimmed the H/S/L but this was over a year ago. its been fine but a few weeks ago a company put a new boiler and a few rads in and some how pumped the heat and pressure up doing sumit or other all the cracks turned up within a day?walls sounding more blowen but lots of cracks all over walls. British G are taking most of the blame the rest is on the house insurance.
 
How old is the house Oasis? if its old 9 inch brickwork and possibly combined with poor pointing and recent weather the walls are probably saturated and pumping up the heat will cause these type of cracks, the answer to your question is that plasterboard is less likely to crack just dont butt the boards together leave a penny gap.
Mo.
 
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