Which option should I go for?

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Grumpy

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I have had two quotes to knock off and replace the rendering on our house. The walls are a mix of 50's brick for the original parts of the house and block for major extension done 11 years ago. The whole house was done 11 years ago but is cracked and blown in many places on both the original brick and newer block walls. Total area is around 100m2.

First quote is for:

Two coats PVA bonding
First coat 6-1-1 blended sand, lime, cement, plasticiser and fibre
Second coat 6-1-1 blended sand, lime, cement and plasticiser
Top coat Tyrolean finish

Second quote is for:

Base coat of Weber, apply mesh
Second coat of Weber - colour of my choice

Both quotes include knocking off old, scaffolding, disposal. Two different companies, both highly recommended. There is virtually no difference between the price of each quote, though I'll need to add painting to the S&C option.

I'd like to go with the one which is least likely to give me problems in the future.

Which should I go with (or should I be looking for another option)? Any advice welcome. Thanks.
 
PVA on external work !!??? No no no no nooooooo!!!!
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flynnyman said:
And his mixes are all wrong tut tut I wonder if he was the dear one or the other fella the cheap one?
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I gave up after reading PVA thats enough alarm bells for me. I dread to think what his "fibre" would be? Few handfuls of Branflakes perhaps??
 
Hmmm that's not what I was expecting! The sand and cement quote is from an old school local guy who I've had several recommendations for. Even the guy quoting the Weber option, who has been around for years too and also seems highly regarded, told me the other guy's work is top notch!

Is it just the use of PVA that's wrong?
 
Who told you the ratios he was going to use? Not something I'd go into detail wth a client about unless asked specifically.
Top coat would be ok ish, but scratch coat is ridiculous


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If he is using waterproof pva then that will work but most today use sbr. 2 coats of pva? One will be a primer the second a tack coat. If he uses ordinary pva give him a wide berth.

Blended sand? Well sand varies all over the country. I only use washed sharp sand but in some parts of the Country the sharp sand is so gritty some soften it up with a bit of building. 20% building sand max.

6:1:1 is too weak for the first coat. I would use 5 sand, 1 cement with water
proofer and a 6:1:1 top coat. Fibres are fine.

This is the old way but lets remember some of the old renders we have to hack off are often 60-70 years old.

The mono sounds Ok.

Tyrolean will get dirty faster than mono but even monocouche will get air polluted before long. For me pay a bit extra and have a nanotechnology finish.
 
Thanks very much for the advice. I'll ask about the nanotechnology finish. I don't mind paying extra for something that will reduce need for painting or cleaning.
 
If the brick work/block work is high suction then PVA is fine if it's just a weak mix to reduce the suction, but not ok if it's used as a bonding coat.

Too weak a mix for me, I'd prefer a 4-1 scratch and top, bit of lime in the tyrolean.

Anyway no brainer if Weber is the same cost go for it, quality product, seal it when finished and should be low maintenance for years.
 
If u wana go dwn s&c route we go 3-1 scratch and with urs with history of cracking and ur new extension blockwork render already blown after 11 years u wana bed sum mesh into ur scratch coat for piece of mind then 5-1 top coat..jobs a gud 1..ur s&c guy shud of recommended bedding mesh into ur scratch coat aswell if he's seen the cracks etc..sbr slurry on aswell b4 scratch
 
Kitchy said:
If u wana go dwn s&c route we go 3-1 scratch and with urs with history of cracking and ur new extension blockwork render already blown after 11 years u wana bed sum mesh into ur scratch coat for piece of mind then 5-1 top coat..jobs a gud 1..ur s&c guy shud of recommended bedding mesh into ur scratch coat aswell if he's seen the cracks etc..sbr slurry on aswell b4 scratch
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3/1 bloody hell thats a strong mix
You risk cracking at that ratio.
 
There's a property called the sugar cube in Bristol was on Grand Designs, was done in white STO thin coat, supposed to have all this self cleaning bullsh*t technology. I was doing a job opposite it couple off weeks back and trust me it doesn't look like a sugar cube anymore!

Mono and a decent sealer best your going to get right now.
 
FreeD said:
There's a property called the sugar cube in Bristol was on Grand Designs, was done in white STO thin coat, supposed to have all this self cleaning bullsh*t technology. I was doing a job opposite it couple off weeks back and trust me it doesn't look like a sugar cube anymore!

Mono and a decent sealer best your going to get right now.
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There's a mono or k rend job behind house we are doing its as green as the grass in the garden
 
bobby said:
I prefer a softer mix tbh
Plenty of lime and less cement
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I'm not saying ur wrong pal but I dnt think just because we do 3-1 its automatically guna crack..we don't put lime In ours its hard enough getting builders to stump up for gear as it is..we only do a few s&c jobs a year thank fck
 
Kitchy said:
I'm not saying ur wrong pal but I dnt think just because we do 3-1 its automatically guna crack..we don't put lime In ours its hard enough getting builders to stump up for gear as it is..we only do a few s&c jobs a year thank fck
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f**k rendering without lime!!!
The more cement content the higher chance it will crack
 
Got to agree with Bobby, 3:1 is way too strong. A chance of cracking but also if it end up stronger than the substrate it could blow off.

I usually use 4 to 4.5 sand on dashing because if it does microcrack you cant see them but on plain render then 5:1 scratch. Sets rock hard.

As for a sealer I don't think Weber do one. Could use the Parex stuff but it costs.

I have seen new builds turning green and ewi. It is down to good insulation.
 
Could argue about ratios all day but it's all sand quality dependant. 3:1 is very strong though. Lime has to be in top coat prior to tyrolean


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Could argue about ratios till the cows come home..end of day never been called back so it cnt of blown as we wudnt get repeat work off the builders..i like a good solid scratch coat boys lol..point taken tho as u guys no more about rendering than me
 
Bloke I laboured on and done my apprenticeship with used pva before rendering on some jobs and sbr on others.

Never ever had any problems 4 - 1 mixes , plenty of hosing down on the scratch cpat before topping and a shovel of lime per mix in top coat.

We could arguee with ratios and sealers until the cows come in but of it works for you then so be it.

Ever tryed hacking off a 3-1 mix? That stuff is on there!!!
 
Don't get blagged by that word nanotechnology lol it's a salesman's word all day long. I've lost count of the s**t mono jobs I've seen recent and even shitter after a year, it's not all it's cracked up to be ( no pun intended). Am I the only one who tyroleans straight onto the top coat without rubbing up on the same day as applying the top coat?
 
flynnyman said:
Don't get blagged by that word nanotechnology lol it's a salesman's word all day long. I've lost count of the s**t mono jobs I've seen recent and even shitter after a year, it's not all it's cracked up to be ( no pun intended). Am I the only one who tyroleans straight onto the top coat without rubbing up on the same day as applying the top coat?
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Probably.
 
flynnyman said:
Don't get blagged by that word nanotechnology lol it's a salesman's word all day long. I've lost count of the s**t mono jobs I've seen recent and even shitter after a year, it's not all it's cracked up to be ( no pun intended). Am I the only one who tyroleans straight onto the top coat without rubbing up on the same day as applying the top coat?
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Just do what works for you mate !lol
 
It's not about wether it works or not there is a reason your mixes are different in each coat. 3-1 is quite strong and as what's been mentioned if it's stronger than what it's going on you will have problems. It's a basic principal in rendering which goes back to the days of pyramids it's not a guessing game it really is quite simple.
 
FreeD said:
If the brick work/block work is high suction then PVA is fine if it's just a weak mix to reduce the suction, but not ok if it's used as a bonding coat.

Too weak a mix for me, I'd prefer a 4-1 scratch and top, bit of lime in the tyrolean.

Anyway no brainer if Weber is the same cost go for it, quality product, seal it when finished and should be low maintenance for years.
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Why would you put lime in the tyrolean? You want lime in the top coat to provide suction for the tyrolean

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flynnyman said:
It's not about wether it works or not there is a reason your mixes are different in each coat. 3-1 is quite strong and as what's been mentioned if it's stronger than what it's going on you will have problems. It's a basic principal in rendering which goes back to the days of pyramids it's not a guessing game it really is quite simple.
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Thanks for the lesson ,i have much to learn
 
flynnyman said:
Don't get blagged by that word nanotechnology lol it's a salesman's word all day long. I've lost count of the s**t mono jobs I've seen recent and even shitter after a year, it's not all it's cracked up to be ( no pun intended). Am I the only one who tyroleans straight onto the top coat without rubbing up on the same day as applying the top coat?
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Nah. Malc does it

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