What layer to put the mesh on?

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Chief0milo

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Doing SBR slurry mix, base coat and then top coat, at what point does the mesh go on?
I was thinking get it on straight away (slurry) as it'll be the first point of crack protection helping to prevent it going further... but then I thought slurry is only really thin and so would make it difficult to apply the slurry properly, and then messin around with mesh while slurry is going off... or trying to apply slurry with mesh on would just be a pita... So then I thought top coat, as that is where the crack would show.... but then I'm thinking base coat as if it doesn't go through the base coat, it shouldn't go through to the top coat and would take longer to get through to the top coat...

Help!
 
Thank you Kyle.
Is that the general consensus of how most would put it on?

Im not sure my workmate would appreciate a meshed finish jack :p
 
Mesh should always be as close to the finished surface as u can get. The final front 3rd of the render is most companies spec.

Mesh against the background will allow a stress or a split the lads through it performs better closer to the surface where u would see any crack visibly
 
So in that case, would you recommend *not* nailing the edges of the mesh to the chimney? The mesh is 220mm wide going over a crack no longer than 1.5 ft
 
Chief0milo said:
So in that case, would you recommend *not* nailing the edges of the mesh to the chimney? The mesh is 220mm wide going over a crack no longer than 1.5 ft
Click to expand...
If it's to cover a crack then the advise will be different,I'd use eml for a start and close to the substrate,if you think there is chance of any movement in the crack put some building paper under the eml so the mortar does not stick to the area around the crack. This may just allow the crack to move without the finished top coat being effected.
 
The chimney has been sorted so there should be no movement, surveyor said it's solid and not going anywhere, the brickie who sorted it has said it won't be moving at all, and to be honest the crack ill be putting the eml over (didnt realise the mesh was actually called eml, lookong at it) wasnt the issue previously, its an old crack, i just wanted to be extra safe. I hate any chance of cracks coming through anything i do :s
 
Forgot to ask, just out of interest, how come not to nail it? Tue link above even says it can be attached...? Is it a personal choice, or do you have a reason for suggezting not nailing it this time round?
 
I did a chimney last September - sounds like your job. I told the owner that the best way to fix this was to take the top of the chimney off down to the roof line and then rebuild it then I'd come back and plaster it. He didn't want to go that far with it. I ended up removing the stucco off of the brick in the cracked out area, then I epoxyed the brick that was loose. Bonded and stuccoed the patch. Then I embedded fiberglass sheeting over the whole top of the chimney into a bed of Parex base coat. Then finished with Parex acrylic finish. Done quite a few chimneys this way as long as they're not too far gone to begin with.
 

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Loren said:
I did a chimney last September - sounds like your job. I told the owner that the best way to fix this was to take the top of the chimney off down to the roof line and then rebuild it then I'd come back and plaster it. He didn't want to go that far with it. I ended up removing the stucco off of the brick in the cracked out area, then I epoxyed the brick that was loose. Bonded and stuccoed the patch. Then I embedded fiberglass sheeting over the whole top of the chimney into a bed of Parex base coat. Then finished with Parex acrylic finish. Done quite a few chimneys this way as long as they're not too far gone to begin with.
Click to expand...


I would hazard a guess and say the reason it failed the first time is due to there being no cope and therefore water ingress, then freezing/thawing causing crack..unless there was a cope previous??
 
dieselpower said:
I would hazard a guess and say the reason it failed the first time is due to there being no cope and therefore water ingress, then freezing/thawing causing crack..unless there was a cope previous??
Click to expand...
That's exactly what we thought the problem was. I really wanted to see the top of the chimney get rebuilt from the top roof line up. Also a good part of the problem seemed to be the brick layers fault, the corner bricks weren't staggered and overlapping one another.
 
Chief0milo said:
So in that case, would you recommend *not* nailing the edges of the mesh to the chimney? The mesh is 220mm wide going over a crack no longer than 1.5 ft
Click to expand...

U are getting confused , eml is made of metal and the mesh is made of fibre glass just like a big scrim just not sticky
 
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