What do I do with this mess?!

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herds

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Hi all,

Let me know how you would do this. I basically cut two chases, 1 for a spur and one for network/coax/ethernet for tv and then went about swapping the surface mounted double gang for a flush one.... except at there was a problem drilling the brick to mount the back box, the brick moved and a load of plaster cracked/fell off.

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..I am thinking, put the flush electric box back in with mortar and make it level with the wall, then fill the hole surrounded the box, fill the chases with easifill), remove rad then skim the wall... not sure how to fill the hole around the box as the bricks are uneven so I can't just trowel bonding onto it.

Cheers
 
Cheers guys, just a little wary of the depth of the whole around the socket,I suppose a couple layers of bonding?
 
Brush a weak solution of PVA and water into your chases and surrounding area before you bond them.

Don't forget to isolate that socket first.
 
I don't wanna put anyone's nose out of joint but surely he should be using Hardwall on commons. Bonding is for low suction like concrete, plastic cavity closers or painted surfaces. Bonding will dry too quick, shrink and crack and not stick to bricks properly even with PVA. Sorry - just my opinion.
 
currymunster said:
I don't wanna put anyone's nose out of joint but surely he should be using Hardwall on commons. Bonding is for low suction like concrete, plastic cavity closers or painted surfaces. Bonding will dry too quick, shrink and crack and not stick to bricks properly even with PVA. Sorry - just my opinion.
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Your right... but bonding is always my chice when it comes to patches.... dont know why but it is :)

hardwall never seems to do as good a job :)
 
currymunster said:
I don't wanna put anyone's nose out of joint but surely he should be using Hardwall on commons. Bonding is for low suction like concrete, plastic cavity closers or painted surfaces. Bonding will dry too quick, shrink and crack and not stick to bricks properly even with PVA. Sorry - just my opinion.
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Bonding is just fine for patching and if he uses some watered down pva on the chases first then the bonding will not shrink ,just make sure you get the pva on the edges of the chases.
 
i see on a lot of av forums where people have chased walls to float their tv that they use easifill. I take it easifill is used in these cases instead of bonding because they don't want to skim the whole wall afterwards.
 
herds said:
That was the old surface mounted white socket.

As I needed to add a spur I decided to replace it with a flush mounted one
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I think he means, why is there a metal back box behind the plastic one with the cable seemingly feeding through both? :RpS_lol:

Oh and fill it with easyfil if you really want to, dont forget to come back and tell us how you get on though.
 
herds said:
i see on a lot of av forums where people have chased walls to float their tv that they use easifill. I take it easifill is used in these cases instead of bonding because they don't want to skim the whole wall afterwards.
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What other forums??? There is only one plastering forum!! TPF the original and the best!!.......... Other forums FFs!...... Tut tut tut:RpS_sneaky::rolleyes)
 
DannyMac said:
He means the AVForum. (Audio Video) Not a great source of plastering knowledge.
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you do surprise me lol

hey i might nip over there as im gonna chase all my cables in and could do with some cheap places that sell the relevant long cables:RpS_thumbup:
 
NPS said:
you do surprise me lol

hey i might nip over there as im gonna chase all my cables in and could do with some cheap places that sell the relevant long cables:RpS_thumbup:
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What do you need? Most people on there will recommend expensive ones.
 
extra long HDMI cables (3 minimum, PS3, WIii and the Sky box) might chuck a scart lead in too, just wondering if its better to have a long telephone lead from the BT box to the router or a long Ethernet cable from the router to the tv and sky box
 
thats what i thought too be honest
HDMI cables will prob have to be about 3.5m if i go down the wall then across, shorter if i go diagonally across the wall, Ethernet cables will have to 3m max
 
Right o.
Easy fill can be used but hard wall and multi is far better.
I would wet down with a 5:1 water;PVA then mix a stiffish hardwall mix and apply going accross channels then smooth off vertically keeping surounding wall clean.
leave to stiffen up the scratch off about 2mm to leave room for multi finish.
when set - about 2 to 3 hours.
give a bit of 5;1 pva to hardwall but not essential.
mix multi and apply to hard wall and smooth off surrounding wall.
leave to stiffen for maybe 5 to 10 mins the either do either a new mix of multi or add water to old one(The latter will go off quicker) apply to wall keeping as tight to surrounding wall as possible but still proud. Can go over sides this time but not to much. Leave to stiffen for 10 mins
Now take a wet brush and wet down edges and work trowel over to smooth off. anything over edges can be brushed and then put trowel flat on wall and move in circular motions. it will work plaster off wall then smooth over. leave to stiffen for 5 to 10 mins then repeat twice. Keep some dead mix handy as you can use to butter up to fill in if need be.
at end you should have a nice neat channel filled in with a seamless joint to existing plaster.
unlike easyfill it won't be soft or dusty to touch IMHO a much better finish.
But hell thats just my opinion
No wall was hurt or injured during this example.

Also ethernet cable is good and you can buy a converter for it to hdmi - Think I saw it in screwfix.
Scarts are a nightmare as plugs are too big to go through trunking - You can buy the cable on ebay and a couple of solder on plugs. Also there is a list on internet for pin numbers as you need to cross wires over for in and out feeds.

Oh and you can buy in screwfix the RJ45 plugs and the crimp tool to go on CAT 5e ethernet cable.
Rant over!! :RpS_lol:
 
:RpS_lol: You can't convert ethernet to HDMI. I don't know why you would want to, they carry completely different information.

I think what you saw is a hdmi 1.4v cable which can carry ethernet and 3d also for internet tvs. It's not what NPS needs.
 
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cheers danny mate I prob wouldnt have even looked on ebay for the cables because i thought that they would have been roughly the same price, how wrong was I :RpS_scared: cant believe how cheap they are lol
I might have a nip into that shop next time I go to the farm/butchers. cheers mate!!!:RpS_thumbup:


currymunster said:
Right o.
Easy fill can be used but hard wall and multi is far better.
I would wet down with a 5:1 water;PVA then mix a stiffish hardwall mix and apply going accross channels then smooth off vertically keeping surounding wall clean.
leave to stiffen up the scratch off about 2mm to leave room for multi finish.
when set - about 2 to 3 hours.
give a bit of 5;1 pva to hardwall but not essential.
mix multi and apply to hard wall and smooth off surrounding wall.
leave to stiffen for maybe 5 to 10 mins the either do either a new mix of multi or add water to old one(The latter will go off quicker) apply to wall keeping as tight to surrounding wall as possible but still proud. Can go over sides this time but not to much. Leave to stiffen for 10 mins
Now take a wet brush and wet down edges and work trowel over to smooth off. anything over edges can be brushed and then put trowel flat on wall and move in circular motions. it will work plaster off wall then smooth over. leave to stiffen for 5 to 10 mins then repeat twice. Keep some dead mix handy as you can use to butter up to fill in if need be.
at end you should have a nice neat channel filled in with a seamless joint to existing plaster.
unlike easyfill it won't be soft or dusty to touch IMHO a much better finish.
But hell thats just my opinion
No wall was hurt or injured during this example.

Also ethernet cable is good and you can buy a converter for it to hdmi - Think I saw it in screwfix.
Scarts are a nightmare as plugs are too big to go through trunking - You can buy the cable on ebay and a couple of solder on plugs. Also there is a list on internet for pin numbers as you need to cross wires over for in and out feeds.

Oh and you can buy in screwfix the RJ45 plugs and the crimp tool to go on CAT 5e ethernet cable.
Rant over!!
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not bothered about converting owt mate, just want the proper leads
not too bothered about the scart to be fair but i think ill bob at least one in just incase, I'm wont be putting them in trunking either so that wont be any trouble. but thanks anyway mash:RpS_thumbup:
 
thanks again.

from reading 10m is about the limit for hdmi. You can always use cat5/6 hdmi balluns to overcome the distance issues but these arent cheap and its another point of failure.

nps - i just bought a 10m hdmi for like £3 off ebay, i'll let you know how it proved.
 
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