Striking timber (bands and quoins)

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Cornelius

Well-Known Member
When striking timbers on bands and quoins does anyone have any helpful tips on removing timbers nice and clean without disturbing the render? E.g. Brush some oil on to timber prior to rendering.
 
I've used cooking oil on the timbers before using them then tapped the timbers so they loosen slightly before removing if that helps
 
Do you mean the lath to get the band depth? I just run trowel down it before taking it off at a slight angle, to stop it coming away, never heard of any other tips as of yet. Could be useful enough to hear if there is any better ways.
 
Sika do a really good 'release' agent - brush or roller it on the battens and they pop out sweet. Make sure the battens are rebated for extra easy removal. I usually screw the battens to stop movement - I use brass screws as this stops any rust stains leaking down the render and on the battens (they can be used again on other jobs), once the render has set the battens come out great, then just cut a batten down to a handy size and use this to fill holes/make good and rub-up.....
 
When striking timbers on bands and quoins does anyone have any helpful tips on removing timbers nice and clean without disturbing the render? E.g. Brush some oil on to timber prior to rendering.

Mate of mine swears by chainsaw oil from screwfix, I've used silka shutter release oil and had no problems

ImageUploadedByThe Plasterers Forum1489475201.353547.jpg
 
Wrong bl
Sika do a really good 'release' agent - brush or roller it on the battens and they pop out sweet. Make sure the battens are rebated for extra easy removal. I usually screw the battens to stop movement - I use brass screws as this stops any rust stains leaking down the render and on the battens (they can be used again on other jobs), once the render has set the battens come out great, then just cut a batten down to a handy size and use this to fill holes/make good and rub-up.....
just do it without them
 
Soak battens overnight in barrell of water. Following morning fix onto the wall,apply render. Battens will shrink as they dry out over a few day's hence separate themselves from the render
 
Soak battens overnight in barrell of water. Following morning fix onto the wall,apply render. Battens will shrink as they dry out over a few day's hence separate themselves from the render
Would that not leave an uneven "break" as it were? Plus soaked battens warp if left too long which would be a nightmare doing this kind of work
 
When I do rusticated work it is always with rebated/chamfered/beveled battens - to be able obtain this shape in a uniform consistent way cutting free hand doesn't give me the required standard. Cutting freehand has its place and is fine if you're looking for a 'square' cut out shape.
 
They should make plastic ones with a series of predrilled holes for fixing purposes. With the option of sliding the Square edge cut to reveal the 45° cut or other options. I need to draw this out and sell it to @Plasterers1StopShop I met get a bacon buttie and a brew out of it lol
 
They should make plastic ones with a series of predrilled holes for fixing purposes. With the option of sliding the Square edge cut to reveal the 45° cut or other options. I need to draw this out and sell it to @Plasterers1StopShop I met get a bacon buttie and a brew out of it lol

There is one out there bud, drove past a job and saw them used
 
Been doing it this way for year's,my auld man did it this way for year's,his auld man did it this way for year's. Quoins dubbed out with 2-1 first so when the battens shrink you get a sharp clean separation. Bands or patent reveals would be oiled with burnt motor oil alright as they are too long for the soak in the barrell.
 
If it's quoins or keystones just cut them freehand if there thicker than normal just scratch them out to suit.
If it's ashlar render then plained oiled timber timber and knib the scratch out to the front edge.
Worked for me a few times
 
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