Some advice needed

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I'd just take the lot back to brick. Actually feels like an improvement when it all stripped and in the skip. Blank canvas to start from. Insulate externals why you're at it.
 
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bof said:
#25
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Only reasons against, thus far, was

1. The skirting. I wanted to keep that intact and thermal boards would hang over it like a lip. But I guess I can just rip it off and although the wardrobes are scribed to the skirting, when the thermal boards are on, they'll cover that anyway. I can reinstall the skirting just so in between the two opposing wardrobes then. So that shouldn't be an issue any longer?

2. The radiator pipes. I'm not sure if they have enough play to move forward the extra distance from where they are now. Would you argue that even if it requires draining system and cutting pipes etc, its still worth doing?

Are you suggesting 37.5mm, bof?

Cheers
 
FreeD said:
'Damaged shoulder' you have been through a few spreads now Mo! We have all used this one a few times!

Regarding the room just a quick tip if you are insulating the ceiling...try to make sure it's well sealed and the the roof space is well ventilated...estimated on cost for the works by pro spread £1800-£2100 Good Luck!
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Thanks for the tip FreeD, nice to hear from you again.

Lol @ your comment! Haha, no they're good honest lads, work has been dry so he actually called me back wondering wether I was ready, and he got paid on demand, in cash on the last job, no complaints from either party. They did a very tidy job, especially considering the awkwardness of it.
 
Mos said:
Thanks for the tip FreeD, nice to hear from you again.

Lol @ your comment! Haha, no they're good honest lads, work has been dry so he actually called me back wondering wether I was ready, and he got paid on demand, in cash on the last job, no complaints from either party. They did a very tidy job, especially considering the awkwardness of it.
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No worries Mo if you need a detailed spec which you can take and get prices on from spreads PM I can do it for you for £90 will only take a couple of hours (y)
 
ChrispyUK said:
I'd just take the lot back to brick. Actually feels like an improvement when it all stripped and in the skip. Blank canvas to start from. Insulate externals why you're at it.
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Hey Chrispy, my thoughts exactly. I just don't want to take a mistep end up creating more work and expense. Fully justified on the external walls though to install the thermal boards.
 
Mos said:
Hey Chrispy, my thoughts exactly. I just don't want to take a mistep end up creating more work and expense. Fully justified on the external walls though to install the thermal boards.
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You doing the donkey work on your own Mos?
 
Mos said:
Hello guys & Jess

Hope everyone's managed to dodge Corona thus far.

I'm back cos I need some advice. This is the final room in our house that, despite moving in 4 yrs, i just never got round to sorting. Basically been a dumping ground for the whole house.
However, found out there's an addition to family on the way in August so the missus has decided it's gonna be a nursery. Anyway managed to clear the crap out, actually ended up selling some of it on eBay cos the dump is closed.

So now it's time to get this decorated. Underneath the wallpaper was this textured paint finish, its peeling off without too much fuss, but it's taking some of the skim coat underneath off.

I need a a good -standard finish and it needs to be robust enough to cope with a bit of rough and tumble being the kids room. It'll be wall-papered once the walls have been sorted out and made nice n flat.

The lath ceiling I plan to have overboarded with some 37.5mm insulated board and have it skimmed all by a Spread.

Should I:

1. Hack it all off & have it d&d and skimmed

2. Just hack off the loose skim back to where it's sound and patch in with some easifill?

4. Pay the Spread to reskim the walls?

5. Glue 25mm Kingspan to the ceiling and then overboard with tapered edge pb, fill, sand smooth, paint.

3. Sell my 5 bags of multi on eBay?

If you suggest no. 2- what primer or stabilising product should I use to ensure its a lasting finish?

The bit behind the radiator is really shot. The base coat has blown too, so I'd need to hack all that off back to brick, but it'ss small enough (and inconspicuous enough) for me to personally, at my skill-level, make good again using bonding coat and multi.

Also, any theories on those almost symmetrical cracks in the plaster splaying outwards underneath the big window?

Thanks v much
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Welcome back Mos!
 
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Mos said:
Only reasons against, thus far, was

1. The skirting. I wanted to keep that intact and thermal boards would hang over it like a lip. But I guess I can just rip it off and although the wardrobes are scribed to the skirting, when the thermal boards are on, they'll cover that anyway. I can reinstall the skirting just so in between the two opposing wardrobes then. So that shouldn't be an issue any longer?

2. The radiator pipes. I'm not sure if they have enough play to move forward the extra distance from where they are now. Would you argue that even if it requires draining system and cutting pipes etc, its still worth doing?

Are you suggesting 37.5mm, bof?

Cheers
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If my house I'd go for it
 
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ChrispyUK said:
You doing the donkey work on your own Mos?
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Yep, I got the time right now being on furlough & I get to learn a thing or two about me own house.

Plus it's makes good sense to pay a plasterer just to plaster.

Usually the missus would help but she's 28wks n counting at the minute
 
Mos said:
Yep, I got the time right now being on furlough & I get to learn a thing or two about me own house.

Plus it's makes good sense to pay a plasterer just to plaster.

Usually the missus would help but she's 28wks n counting at the minute
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Good stuff Mos. No fun then with the mess. If you haven't got a skip, then i'd get one, unless you're determined to take loads of rubble sacks to the tip. Without seeing the job, then its obviously difficult to completely advise, but with a lot of these properties, by the time you end up hacking off the 'loose' you don't end up with much 'solid' and you can second guess yourself and the end conclusion is you just hack everything off anyway. If thats the case, then just concentrate on one wall at a time, hack off and get rid until clear.

Doing to building regs, usually means 50mm approx insulation on externals. its your house, so your choice, but any insulation is better then nothing. My other rule off thumb, is if you don't want to got to the expense of float and set on the other walls, then at least do the party wall. If the party wall is stripped back to brick and dot and dabbed, then you may notice 'noise' you didn't before.
 
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ChrispyUK said:
Good stuff Mos. No fun then with the mess. If you haven't got a skip, then i'd get one, unless you're determined to take loads of rubble sacks to the tip. Without seeing the job, then its obviously difficult to completely advise, but with a lot of these properties, by the time you end up hacking off the 'loose' you don't end up with much 'solid' and you can second guess yourself and the end conclusion is you just hack everything off anyway. If thats the case, then just concentrate on one wall at a time, hack off and get rid until clear.

Doing to building regs, usually means 50mm approx insulation on externals. its your house, so your choice, but any insulation is better then nothing. My other rule off thumb, is if you don't want to got to the expense of float and set on the other walls, then at least do the party wall. If the party wall is stripped back to brick and dot and dabbed, then you may notice 'noise' you didn't before.
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You're not wrong about the mess. Thankfully, its really just 2 walls when you take out the fitted wardrobes and windows, but will need a small skip. Wish I had one of those builders chutes now lol.

Yeah 50mm would be ideal, like in new builds I guess, but as you know will reduce room size I'm gonna go with 25mm, i'm sure it'll make a big difference from the current situation.
Luckily, the house is detached so no party wall, but that is good knowledge, thanks.

Will hack off those two external walls tomorrow then evaluate the condition of the remaining internal one.

Having to spend a bit of time fighting a county court claim at the moment though, some c**t of parking firm wants £1200 for 5 tickets even though I was entitled to park as I was employed by one of the retailers there and the tickets were subsequently cancelled by them. These people really are the lowest.
 
Mos said:
You're not wrong about the mess. Thankfully, its really just 2 walls when you take out the fitted wardrobes and windows, but will need a small skip. Wish I had one of those builders chutes now lol.

Yeah 50mm would be ideal, like in new builds I guess, but as you know will reduce room size I'm gonna go with 25mm, i'm sure it'll make a big difference from the current situation.
Luckily, the house is detached so no party wall, but that is good knowledge, thanks.

Will hack off those two external walls tomorrow then evaluate the condition of the remaining internal one.

Having to spend a bit of time fighting a county court claim at the moment though, some c**t of parking firm wants £1200 for 5 tickets even though I was entitled to park as I was employed by one of the retailers there and the tickets were subsequently cancelled by them. These people really are the lowest.
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Good luck with that. Too many jobs worths about.

If you've got a detached older property, then although a labour of love, when finished, you'll have either a life long home, or a very nice assest (or both). Just do a proper job and it'll be well worth it.
 
Making progress...

Now, for the Insulation what's the correct way forward:

Baton out the wall with 2x1, infill with Kingspan, 12.5mm pboard over the top.

Or

Dot n dab 37.5mm thermal boards?

I'm leaning towards the baton option as I'll save a bit of space (I'm fighting for every cm as there's gonna rads either side of the window and they're gonna prevent the wardrobe doors from opening fully if the rads end up standing too proud off the wall)
 

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Mos said:
Making progress...

Now, for the Insulation what's the correct way forward:

Baton out the wall with 2x1, infill with Kingspan, 12.5mm pboard over the top.

Or

Dot n dab 37.5mm thermal boards?

I'm leaning towards the baton option as I'll save a bit of space (I'm fighting for every cm as there's gonna rads either side of the window and they're gonna prevent the wardrobe doors from opening fully if the rads end up standing too proud off the wall)
Click to expand...
Buy sheets of EPS at the required thickness and stick to back of plasterboard with pva , then foam dab
 
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Mos said:
Making progress...

Now, for the Insulation what's the correct way forward:

Baton out the wall with 2x1, infill with Kingspan, 12.5mm pboard over the top.

Or

Dot n dab 37.5mm thermal boards?

I'm leaning towards the baton option as I'll save a bit of space (I'm fighting for every cm as there's gonna rads either side of the window and they're gonna prevent the wardrobe doors from opening fully if the rads end up standing too proud off the wall)
Click to expand...

Building regs would ask for 50mm insulation plus board, but your house so do what you will.
 
Hate insulation, interstitial condensation issues. You don’t have trickle vent in window either. Just dot and dab it and crank heating up in winter
 
ChrispyUK said:
Building regs would ask for 50mm insulation plus board, but your house so do what you will.
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You know what mate, I reflected on what you said and you're right.

I gotta get out of the mindset where I feel as I'm losing more sq ft by having more Insulation. Instead, I should be feeling pretty good that where the wardrobes are in I've actually gained 50mm of premium space because the clothes will hopefully provide some insulation.

So I'm going with 50mm as per regs.

The windows will be replaced so I'll have 3 trickle vents across two different Windows on different aspects of the room, so hopefully enough ventilation and room warm enough to carry the vapour rather than it condensing through the thermal boards. I was still thinking of using 2*1 batons and cutting away an inch off the 2" insulation to lap over the baton. So, its a continuous layer of insulation, but just 25mm, not 50mm over where the batons will be.

Bit faffy, but saving of nearly £300 over getting someone to d&d with proper insulated pb. This is based on me batoning & boarding diy.

Incidentally, where's the cheapest place to get foil-backed thermal pb?... Im.seeing them at around £55-£60/board whereas a 50mm sheet is £30+ £6 for pb. If I can close the difference in price, d&d will be the way forward. I like @bof your suggestion of foam dabs, but will need to check with the Spread if he is comfortable with that method.
 
Your time is £free so go for the faff style
Most site practice has saving time (which is labour ££ time) at it’s core value and is not always the best method but quickest method. Evo stick foam is amazing stuff for boarding but if your not familiar with it you may have it go off too quick for your speed level or find you have not bought enough and find out half way through putting your boards up...
 
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Mos said:
You know what mate, I reflected on what you said and you're right.

I gotta get out of the mindset where I feel as I'm losing more sq ft by having more Insulation. Instead, I should be feeling pretty good that where the wardrobes are in I've actually gained 50mm of premium space because the clothes will hopefully provide some insulation.

So I'm going with 50mm as per regs.

The windows will be replaced so I'll have 3 trickle vents across two different Windows on different aspects of the room, so hopefully enough ventilation and room warm enough to carry the vapour rather than it condensing through the thermal boards. I was still thinking of using 2*1 batons and cutting away an inch off the 2" insulation to lap over the baton. So, its a continuous layer of insulation, but just 25mm, not 50mm over where the batons will be.

Bit faffy, but saving of nearly £300 over getting someone to d&d with proper insulated pb. This is based on me batoning & boarding diy.

Incidentally, where's the cheapest place to get foil-backed thermal pb?... Im.seeing them at around £55-£60/board whereas a 50mm sheet is £30+ £6 for pb. If I can close the difference in price, d&d will be the way forward. I like @bof your suggestion of foam dabs, but will need to check with the Spread if he is comfortable with that method.
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Whatever your happy with , I will not take offense at the fact that Chrispy is the forum nutcase for DIY and you chose his advise over mine
 
Mos said:
You know what mate, I reflected on what you said and you're right.

I gotta get out of the mindset where I feel as I'm losing more sq ft by having more Insulation. Instead, I should be feeling pretty good that where the wardrobes are in I've actually gained 50mm of premium space because the clothes will hopefully provide some insulation.

So I'm going with 50mm as per regs.

The windows will be replaced so I'll have 3 trickle vents across two different Windows on different aspects of the room, so hopefully enough ventilation and room warm enough to carry the vapour rather than it condensing through the thermal boards. I was still thinking of using 2*1 batons and cutting away an inch off the 2" insulation to lap over the baton. So, its a continuous layer of insulation, but just 25mm, not 50mm over where the batons will be.

Bit faffy, but saving of nearly £300 over getting someone to d&d with proper insulated pb. This is based on me batoning & boarding diy.

Incidentally, where's the cheapest place to get foil-backed thermal pb?... Im.seeing them at around £55-£60/board whereas a 50mm sheet is £30+ £6 for pb. If I can close the difference in price, d&d will be the way forward. I like @bof your suggestion of foam dabs, but will need to check with the Spread if he is comfortable with that method.
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it’s not particularly cheap, but eBay always worth checking. Last big quantity I got from ‘insulation superstore’ or something like that. If dabbing, you don’t want foil back. There’s a ‘paper back’ version for dabbing.

if you can only get 50mm, then go with that as building control aren’t involved, so it’s not like they’ll make you pull it off. In Very small rooms, they are usually pragmatic and let you get away with thinner.
 
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