Slurry mix

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FreeD

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With a slurry mix say you need to get a bond to engineering bricks...i've never really understood what they mean when they say apply render when tacky. I'm talking about a 2:1 cement/sbr mix when its like yogurt. From my experience when you apply this to the wall, theres never really a tacky stage like with PVA its either wet or dryish, when you touch it doesn't feel tacky if you know what i mean...and it always dries patchy...basically what im asking is at what stage should you top a slurry coat with render when its still slightly wet?
 
Ive only used once and like you it was either wet or had a skin over it, I assume they mean apply when still wet, as it is still kinda tacky in my opinion.
 
every time ive used slurry it dries up pretty quick and ive never had any problems. its used to create a key so i wouldnt have thought it mattered if its was dry when you started to render
 
i would have thought as its giveing a key itd be better wen dry otherwise as soon as you put your top coat over the wet slurry itll just mix with the wet slurry and wnt really have any point in being there
 
I don't how it's possible to keep up with it if you have a decent size wall to put on. You'd have to keep breaking off the rendering to slurry the next bit.

It's like PVA, does anyone really skim on it when its tacky? I know I dont, most of the time it's well dried. The water in the plaster makes it tacky again...thats how I justify it to myself anyway.:RpS_biggrin:
 
Don't think sbr give's u a key just a bond, defo 2 coat as 1st when dry will slow the 2nd from drying out as quick (more tack time, put it on with damp soft broom for quickness. the scratch coat on it will be the key coat.
 
yea thats what I do keep in applying until stops pulling in sometimes 3 coats...dampen wall before applying...still find its other wet of dry, not tacky to the touch, i've always topped it just before its dry. I find with pva there is a stage just before it drys where its tacky to the touch.

Oh well leaset its not just me...never had a comeback just wondered.
 
I have been reading good things about microgobetis on here. Would this be a better option, less labour intensive?
 
With a slurry mix say you need to get a bond to engineering bricks...i've never really understood what they mean when they say apply render when tacky. I'm talking about a 2:1 cement/sbr mix when its like yogurt. From my experience when you apply this to the wall, theres never really a tacky stage like with PVA its either wet or dryish, when you touch it doesn't feel tacky if you know what i mean...and it always dries patchy...basically what im asking is at what stage should you top a slurry coat with render when its still slightly wet?

u dont... u leave it for 24hours to dry, id key the joints personally
 
Mix the water and Sovereign SBR Bonding
Agent and then slowly add the cement until a
creamy mix is obtained. This can then be
applied to surfaces with a brush to vastly
improve the adhesion of subsequent coats.
Render, screed etc, must be applied whilst
the bonding coat is still tacky i.e. within 20
minutes. If the bonding does dry then reapply
more before continuing. This mix should
have a pot life of at least 1 hour. All tools and
equipment used must be cleaned
immediately after use, as the bonding coat is
extremely difficult to remove once dry.
This bonding coat is also ideal for use in tiling
onto difficult substrates such as glazed tiles,
vinyl tiles, glass and metal. Again the
adhesive must be applied whilst the bonding
coat is still tacky. Sovereign SBR Bonding
Agent can also be added to cement based
adhesive and grout to improve adhesion and
wear properties. Dilute the SBR 1:3 with
water and use as the gauging solution.
 
Mix the water and Sovereign SBR Bonding
Agent and then slowly add the cement until a
creamy mix is obtained. This can then be
applied to surfaces with a brush to vastly
improve the adhesion of subsequent coats.
Render, screed etc, must be applied whilst
the bonding coat is still tacky i.e. within 20
minutes. If the bonding does dry then reapply
more before continuing. This mix should
have a pot life of at least 1 hour. All tools and
equipment used must be cleaned
immediately after use, as the bonding coat is
extremely difficult to remove once dry.
This bonding coat is also ideal for use in tiling
onto difficult substrates such as glazed tiles,
vinyl tiles, glass and metal. Again the
adhesive must be applied whilst the bonding
coat is still tacky. Sovereign SBR Bonding
Agent can also be added to cement based
adhesive and grout to improve adhesion and
wear properties. Dilute the SBR 1:3 with
water and use as the gauging solution.

i leave it dry and its fine, although it does say on the
sbr to allow it to tack up. Thing about the tacking up
is a maximum of 6mm can only be applied at a time
due to a slump risk,
i know a spread uses sbr for skimming, he applies
it leaves it dry and comes back to it when he wants.
I was on a venetian plaster job in the main room and he
was skimming all the hallway and back room. im not joking
he threw the whole backroom and took ages for the 1st coat
to go off i couldnt believe it
 
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And your brushes will look like a blown up tampon in 1 hour fu.k that clean up, make sure you got a round of broom heads :RpS_laugh:
 
i think there is a difference between a slurry coat and a bonding coat...slurry coat you appy with tyrolean gun and allow to dry? bonding coat apply with brush u to 2mm and hit when tacky?
 
If you do a slurry mix at 1 part opc 1 water 1 sbr and 1 recycled glass frit let it dry then render the glass creates the best key ever
 
i leave it dry and its fine, although it does say on the
sbr to allow it to tack up. Thing about the tacking up
is a maximum of 6mm can only be applied at a time
due to a slump risk,
i know a spread uses sbr for skimming, he applies
it leaves it dry and comes back to it when he wants.
I was on a venetian plaster job in the main room and he
was skimming all the hallway and back room. im not joking
he threw the whole backroom and took ages for the 1st coat
to go off i couldnt believe it

I use sbr inside too sometimes, it goes twice as far as pva so works out cheaper. It seals much better.

We did a reskim job last summer and after 5 pva's the walls were still sucking too much (was fresh plaster). So I mixed some sbr, water and cheap paint up. Its sealed the walls in one coat, then I coated that in the normal PVA mix....worked a treat and saved a sh1t load of time.
 
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