Silicone render basecoat advice

G

Gal Brind

Member
Hi all, new to the 2 day method of basecoating, ie 1st day 1st pass and mesh,
2nd day slurry coat.
I’ve just done this method for the first time, 1st pass of cantillana c + g cement’in, notch and mesh on day one,
Then going to be topping with retro base and rubbed up for a paintable finish.

my question is, is the retro going to hang about a bit or do I need to sbr or something to help control suction?
The walls 35m2 so I need a bit of time with it.
The first pass was over thermalite blocks, but I sbr’d it and it still pulled in pretty quick. Just dont want my second pass pulling in that quick obviously.
Never done it in 2 days before always done wet on wet and it usually comes out lovely.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
 
zombie said:
I have absolutely no idea what your on about!!!!
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Lol, basically I’ve done the first coat of basecoat yesterday, and put my mesh in. I’m going to be topping it in a couple days. I’ve always done my thin coat render on same day ie first coat, mesh, slurry coat.
My question is will there be much suction due to the fact that I’ve given it a few days in between? The first coat is completely dry now. Whereas it’s usually still wet when I slurry. Does that make sense?
 
Silicone render basecoat advice
 
Gal Brind said:
Lol, basically I’ve done the first coat of basecoat yesterday, and put my mesh in. I’m going to be topping it in a couple days. I’ve always done my thin coat render on same day ie first coat, mesh, slurry coat.
My question is will there be much suction due to the fact that I’ve given it a few days in between? The first coat is completely dry now. Whereas it’s usually still wet when I slurry. Does that make sense?
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Ok I understand now for reference slurry coat in rendering is referred to as sbr cement onto brickwork prior to scratch coat.

No you dont need to prime the base and yes there will be more suction
 
Sorry it’s us southerners I suppose. My next pass will be rubbed up and painted to match rest of property so I suppose I just need enough time to get a decent finish on it which is why I asked if sbr would work to my advantage at all. Or if it would f**k me over somehow. Once again thanks for bearing with me...
 
Gal Brind said:
Sorry it’s us southerners I suppose. My next pass will be rubbed up and painted to match rest of property so I suppose I just need enough time to get a decent finish on it which is why I asked if sbr would work to my advantage at all. Or if it would f**k me over somehow. Once again thanks for bearing with me...
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So your saying your not applying a bucket coat over the top
 
I was planning on topping with retro as it rubs up nicer than c + g? I’ve done this type of thing over render board five times In the last yesr when they wanted a smooth finish and to my knowledge they are all still fine. Is it not really the right thing to do then using this product as a plain finish?
F***ing sps are flogging me a dead horse here?
 
Gal Brind said:
I was planning on topping with retro as it rubs up nicer than c + g? I’ve done this type of thing over render board five times In the last yesr when they wanted a smooth finish and to my knowledge they are all still fine. Is it not really the right thing to do then using this product as a plain finish?
F***ing sps are flogging me a dead horse here?
Click to expand...

It will work but it's not a complete system as your render isn't protected like it would be with silicone.

Just do it pal
 
So are you applying a total thickness of 10mm? You should have used ocr as that will finish better to receive paint but I’d rather apply a silicone texture, how thick have you applied your base coat? I personally wouldn’t worry about suction can always wet the background if it’s catches you out but of your a decent spread it shouldn’t, so I’ll ask again how many jobs you completed doing this system? And Sps talk absolute horse shite just to sell a product I find there one of the worse in the industry
 
Like I say I’ve done five in the last year over render board when the builder wanted a smooth finish. I didn’t think 15mm of ocr would stand up to the render board.
This particular job was a hack off, over thermalite block.
I sbr’d the wall as I went, I’ve applied around 6/8mm of c + g now going to be topped with around 5mm of retro base, sponged up (as per reps spec).
Total thickness of 12/13mm.
Sps are local to me hence me using them.
Do I need to be worries then?
 
Gal Brind said:
Like I say I’ve done five in the last year over render board when the builder wanted a smooth finish. I didn’t think 15mm of ocr would stand up to the render board.
This particular job was a hack off, over thermalite block.
I sbr’d the wall as I went, I’ve applied around 6/8mm of c + g now going to be topped with around 5mm of retro base, sponged up (as per reps spec).
Total thickness of 12/13mm.
Sps are local to me hence me using them.
Do I need to be worries then?
Click to expand...

So you've put 13mm on a render board??????
 
No mate, just looks like mesh lightly trowelled into a basecoat though at the moment. Not one for the photo album really
 
I’ve got another job coming up where it’s pebbledash over thermalite. We’re hacking off and I was planning on doing this same c+g,mesh,retro base system to be painted.
Like I say this is what envirowall told me was good enough.
Would it be a better idea to do 4mm rend-aid fully meshed, then 15mm ocr then?
Could I get away with 10mm ocr?
I’ll have no money left on the job otherwise as only allowed for 10mm system!!
 
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