s&c pricing

Status
Not open for further replies.

terry

Member
hello all.I'm trying to work out a price for two walls s&c flat render.both walls will finish 2.5m off the ground to drip bead.one wall is about 10m high on a gable end and will need two scratches as it has a big belly in the blockwork its all off a rickety old scaffold and theres a shed in the way.what is the best way to price. personally ithink do it on day rate.I don't have a clue on s&c metre prices so if anyone can help i would be grateful.there is roughly 40square m and no windows
 
yeah your right.the scaffold is one of those old school ones made of steel i think that has sections that slot into each other but it goes perfectly over a shed.I really need the work so don't want to price for a scaffold if there is one there.I'm just not to sure on pricing s&c?Also while I'm on here one wall is half concrete block half thermalites.I want to slow down the suction on the thermalites. someone once told me to brush some kind of slurry mix on them before your scratch.Has anyone else heard of this
 
scaffold will be fine as long as its got some sort of outriggers on it.. if not theyre a bit scary at height... a couple of long scaffold tubes and some swivel clamps will solve it..

id price it for 3 days 2 + 1... youll be well covered at that... take your time day prep, day scratch, day to float... dirt cheap would be 2 days 2 blokes...

materials - bout a ton of plastering sand and 10 opc, tub of sbr and any exmet lath you need..
tub of waterproofer.... 2 bags of lime..
block and tackle or however you want your lad to get it to top lift..

thermalites are a mare to render on.. wouldnt be a bad idea to bed some fibreglass mesh in the slurry coat.. stick exmet across the halfway join..
 
By the sound of things Terry I get the impression that you've not had much experience with scaffolds mate and if thats the case price for the work but tell the customer that you'll get a scaffolding company to price it up, specially if you've got somebody else working with you.

Times are hard and the cash is short mate but no money can mend bones or god forbid anything worse. Lost a mate through a fall and a couple more have been hurt quite bad and not worked again so I suppose I try to be cautious.
 
wilber said:
Fairplay segs you know the crack about the lot mate.
no mate.. ;D thats just how i'd tackle it.. theres a lot better than me on here would do it differently...
 
Chris when u do a mix say 4:1:1 s/c/l do u add waterproofer?...was reading on the cementone plast/wprfer stuff i've got the other day says on back 'do not use with lime' is this the same with all leave it out? or use insated of lime? or ignore? ???
 
FreeD said:
Chris when u do a mix say 4:1:1 s/c/l do u add waterproofer?...was reading on the cementone plast/wprfer stuff i've got the other day says on back 'do not use with lime' is this the same with all leave it out? or use insated of lime? or ignore? ???
Sorry for jumping in Chris. FreeD the stuff you are on about is a plasticiser mate so need for lime. Not sure what the reaction would be if you used it in all honesty.
 
thanks Chris.with your slurry what ratio would it be,would i add waterproofer to it as well and can i scratch on it the same day or leave it overnight.The worst part of the wall is at the top as the sun will be on it for most of the day so need to give myself a chance.I was going to price 2&1 3 days as we will defo need lab.there is also some patching up to do around the house.the apprentice i no what your saying about scaff is right and I'm sorry to here about what happened to your mate.I would not get the job if i get scaff firm in so i will use advise from Chris.I have had loads of experience with scaffold as i also come off one way back in 1986.It was a one of those towers you can hire and it was half on a main road. I was told to get on it and give the wall a final sponge over.A lorry clipped the scaff i came off and landed on my arse.fractured pelvics in hos for 3 wks.Its just most of my work i have done over the last few years is internal,lofts,refurbs overskim etc and I'm a bit rusty when it comes to outside so i want to get all the prep bang on.thanx
 
terry mate, the old apprentice is right, knows more than me bout this game.. 8)

anyway, slurry, just knock up a wet slurry/paste you can brush on with 50/50 sbr / water - add cement to desired consistency.. give your thermalites a wet down first to kill some of the suction, try and stay out of the sun at all times when your applying and the same with the rest.. almost impossible i know but try and time your day so you get the best of the shade where youre working..
let your slurry dry till next day..
4:1 sand / cement scratch with waterproofer.. use the correct amount per mixerfull (bout 1/2 litre or 3/4 of a mcdonanlds coffee cup ;D)
REALLY scratch it - plenty key...
leave it as long as you can but in this weather next day is gonna be fine...
the reason for this is so the waterproofer becomes active when the cement 'cures', then you'll have loads of time with your float coat to get a finish on it, youll prolly get the entire top half on before you have to touch it with the float, even in this heat..
theres some good experts on rendering on here mate.. i'd take their advise too... all depends on who's on...
top coat 5:1:1, no waterproofer technically but I i usually stick some in cos its a retarder too... there will be a good reason for not doing this so i'd listen to whatever gets posted on this subject..

just re-reading your last post... id get on it silly early in the morning before the sun gets too strong at the top... if the thermalites are up there too (i expect they will be) then the earlier the better mate.. you could try hanging a tarp off the back of the scaffold to keep the sun off it..
tell em they should have used concretes externally and try to cover yourself a bit in the event of it cracking... just tell em you'll do your best, hence the slurry..
o.. leave the slurry as rough as you possibly can for a key..
 
nice one thanks all for the info.I need this job big time as i have gone dead quiet with only a couple of jobs in the pipeline.Im always open to advice from all.Today i phoned 21 spreads all local to me and there was one who offered me some work and all the rest were just getting by or watching the jeremy kyle show.That shows how bad it is.Just got to keep at it.cheers
 
go in selco they do a plasticiser waterproofer and retarder think its called sealorend do not mix lime with waterproofer it can cause a reaction making the cement break down
 
i dont get this SBR slurry thing im not in 2 my rendeng much but wot is it and wot for and how u make it!lol
 
There is no need to slurry thermolite blocks to render on, i have done many on thermolites and as long as you think about your mixes they will work well and look just as good as on any other substrate.
 
I was told about using a slurry by a gang doing the rendering on a previous job.The fella i was working for Always stuck with a 4:1 mix with waterproofer for both coats and this is what Ive become use to.I no that leaving the scratch coat for a few days will benefit for the top coat as in giving it more time to pull in.Three walls have already been done on the house (not by me) and cracks have appeared and it looks very shoddy.when you rub these walls they seem very sandy to me as if the mix was to weak.Andy do you think 4:1waterproofer mix both coats would be the way to go on a wall with two diff backgrounds IE thermolites at top and concrete block at bottom. or diff mix top coat adding lime to give it a bit more flexability. i checked out your website and i must say your work looks very impressive.
 
Pesonally i use 4:1 scratch 4:1 top waterproofer/plasticiser in both coats...guess you could substitute the plasticiser for a shovel of lime. With thermolites...just hose them down, whack on scratch, then top coat day later never had a prob, personally don't see the need for slurry.

Maybe the guys who did the other walls used a weak a mix or one coated and couldn't keep up and the thermos sucked the s/c dry...do a scratch coat u'll be fine. :-*
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top