Renovating 300 Year Old Cottage

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Dazzlestardust

New Member
Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?
 
D

Deleted member 32554

Guest
Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?
No mention of the kettle
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?
Personally I'd put an insulated render system on the outside.
90 graphite EPS is what I'm going to be using on my 210 year old cottage.
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
Is there a particular reason why you're doing that?
Main reason is that I believe you're better off having external insulation over internal, from a dew point point of view. Plus you're obviously not taking up internal area, which is worth considering if using a worthwhile amount of insulation. My dining room for instance has external walls front and back, I wouldn't want to be losing 180mm from the room.
 

John j

Mono Don
Main reason is that I believe you're better off having external insulation over internal, from a dew point point of view. Plus you're obviously not taking up internal area, which is worth considering if using a worthwhile amount of insulation. My dining room for instance has external walls front and back, I wouldn't want to be losing 180mm from the room.
You can get a 60 mm insulation that's same as 90 mm just saying. What bout losing some of garden
 

tapit

Well-Known Member
Main reason is that I believe you're better off having external insulation over internal, from a dew point point of view. Plus you're obviously not taking up internal area, which is worth considering if using a worthwhile amount of insulation. My dining room for instance has external walls front and back, I wouldn't want to be losing 180mm from the room.
hobbit GIF
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
You can get a 60 mm insulation that's same as 90 mm just saying. What bout losing some of garden
When I did my research I came to the conclusion that graphite EPS offered the insulation qualities to cost, and with a proven longevity. There were/are concerns about some of the thinner, high performance products losing effectiveness over time due to dissipation of the gases within them.
I'd definitely rather lose 180mm from a 190 foot plot than from a 14 foot room.
 

John j

Mono Don
When I did my research I came to the conclusion that graphite EPS offered the insulation qualities to cost, and with a proven longevity. There were/are concerns about some of the thinner, high performance products losing effectiveness over time due to dissipation of the gases within them.
I'd definitely rather lose 180mm from a 190 foot plot than from a 14 foot room.
Poor wildlife
 

owls

Private Member
When I did my research I came to the conclusion that graphite EPS offered the insulation qualities to cost, and with a proven longevity. There were/are concerns about some of the thinner, high performance products losing effectiveness over time due to dissipation of the gases within them.
I'd definitely rather lose 180mm from a 190 foot plot than from a 14 foot room.
90m Eps on a solid wall, gives you a u value of 0.3 which is building regs, None combustible, easy to cut etc
 

limeplastering

Active Member
Not a keen fan on any of the pre bagged nhl and looking into it most contain cement.
As your on stone needs to nhl based I’m not overly impressed with adding insulation to older buildings in renders myself I think it can be problematic
 

John j

Mono Don
You can use kooltherm phenolic board at 70mm, that are the same u value as 90mm eps.
Wish I had gone a bit moor on mine . What's them that looks like compressed rock wool . Bet that's warm as f**k. I used the grey polystyrene ones as didn't really look in to it .
 

limeplastering

Active Member
Hi there...

I'm currently renovating this property and could really do with some advice on what to do in order to try and eliminate damp and improve the insulation levels. Currently the exterior of the 600mm solid stone and mud external walls have a painted cement render coat and the interior of the external walls have a gypsum plaster coat.

I purchased the property recently with plenty of damp issues and I'm led to believe that this is probably mainly due to these finishes trapping in the moisture where solid stone walls need to breathe.

So my plan at this stage is to completely remove the interior and exterior finishes back to stone and to then slate hang the exterior including a breathable membrane and with the interior I was thinking an insulting lime render like Warmcote, ProofTherm or Cornerstone Insulating Render basecoat then CLM66 Fine Putty Plaster topcoat.

While this work is going on we'll make sure that ground levels are down below the interior floor levels, any guttering or opening leaks are sorted and perhaps even a French drain around the property perimeter to help with any potential rising damp.

Are there any obvious flaws with this spec?
What’s on your internal floor?
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
Wish I had gone a bit moor on mine . What's them that looks like compressed rock wool . Bet that's warm as f**k. I used the grey polystyrene ones as didn't really look in to it .
You used the same as me, graphite EPS.
What thickness did you manage to nick?
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
60 mm.

See how warm house is when windows in and heating on. So much to.do
Got cavity slabs in new bit but still.used insulated plaster boards so best be warm.in there
My extension is single skin of the wide blocks with 90mm insulation and it's great summer and winter.
 

John j

Mono Don
My extension is single skin of the wide blocks with 90mm insulation and it's great summer and winter.
I.m gonna do garage . It's single skin breeze. What you recommend.

I told folk . Sell there house. Move in there and go on a world cruise with there money
 

essexandy

The Lake Governor
I.m gonna do garage . It's single skin breeze. What you recommend.

I told folk . Sell there house. Move in there and go on a world cruise with there money
I recommend telling your folks to move into garage, think themselves lucky and that they transfer their money over to you quick sharp.
Your welcome.
 

Ritch

Well-Known Member
Not a keen fan on any of the pre bagged nhl and looking into it most contain cement.
As your on stone needs to nhl based I’m not overly impressed with adding insulation to older buildings in renders myself I think it can be problematic
U would say that being a lime guy, my mates like u. Say cements the devils work lol
 

owls

Private Member
Wish I had gone a bit moor on mine . What's them that looks like compressed rock wool . Bet that's warm as f**k. I used the grey polystyrene ones as didn't really look in to it .
Yes you can render over mineral wool it has better breathability than eps.
 
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