plasterboard joints

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ruddez

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after plasterboarding over studded walls or dot and dabbing im finding there seems to be a slight ridge and sometimes a hairline crack where the joints are which stands out when the light shines across the wall i sand them down but just wondering whats causing it i scrim as normal and 2 coat the wall would it be better to fill the joint first leave for a while and then scrim and perhaps feather over the joint leave for a while and then 2 coat
 
i always coat the scrims with finish before i put my 1st coat of plaster on...........seems to work
 
ruddez said:
after plasterboarding over studded walls or dot and dabbing im finding there seems to be a slight ridge and sometimes a hairline crack where the joints are which stands out when the light shines across the wall i sand them down but just wondering whats causing it i scrim as normal and 2 coat the wall would it be better to fill the joint first leave for a while and then scrim and perhaps feather over the joint leave for a while and then 2 coat
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..you using taperd edge or square edge boards?
 
Knauf finish should have the t/e clothed and filled an hour before skimming if thats the material your using. If its BG stuff shouldn't be a problem if your leaving the 1st coat enough time to stiffen up before you put on the 2nd coat. If the problem carries on fill in as you said to stop it.
 
i am using square edge boards and remember not having this problem in the past what causes the ridge is it the plaster going into the joint when laying on and then drying quicker in the joint therefore leaving a slight ridge which you cant see until dry
 
Don't know for sure mate? Only time I've seen what your describing is sometimes the boards ain't butted tight together,gaps between boards?
 
ruddez said:
i am using square edge boards and remember not having this problem in the past what causes the ridge is it the plaster going into the joint when laying on and then drying quicker in the joint therefore leaving a slight ridge which you cant see until dry
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The problem lies with the fact you haven't got a fooking clue what you're doing.
If you're getting ridges on the plasterboard joints after you've finished troweling up then I'd suggest a change of career.
 
Fatarm said:
Don't know for sure mate? Only time I've seen what your describing is sometimes the boards ain't butted tight together,gaps between boards?
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Only time I've seen it also. Stuff tends to be softer in the gap so it springs out a bit (or something like that)
 
Plastermind said:
essexandy said:
The problem lies with the fact you haven't got a fooking clue what you're doing.
If you're getting ridges on the plasterboard joints after you've finished troweling up then I'd suggest a change of career.[/QUOTE




your a ****
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I think that should read "you're a ****" you thick ****.
Just out of interest why do you think I'm a **** for pointing out that if anyone has ridges on the plasterboard joints after they've finished a wall/ceiling that they're not up to the job? Or is it that you suffer the same problem?
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Joints to big and working plaster when its to wet . If its a problem which it should not be if you know what you are doing .may i suggest that you put all your scrims on first then mix a small gauge and cover them ,then when they have gone off enough start your set .
 
I always scrape a bit of dot in any cracks or push the boards together and bang a long nail in the board to stop it moving.
 
thanks for the replies as this problem has only occured on the last job i did and mainly on the walls which was dot and dabbed the joints were 3mm wide and i went through the same sequence as i always do scrim 1st coat leave to firm up and then 2nd coat etc but after trowwelling and when dry you could see the joints a lightly darker colour and when running your hand over the joints you could feel a slight bump,perhaps ridge was the wrong word to use when explaining earlier, although i see this problem on the odd joint now and then but not on a whole room and why not on the studded walls i boarded and skimmed
 
I think you've maybe not got enough adhesive down the joint causing slight movement when your putting pressure on it when troweling resulting in your ridges.
 
Maybe there's a slight bit of movement between the boards when you press with your trowel. If so the dotting isn't right up to edge. Board edges won't move on stud for obvious reasons.
 
ruddez said:
thanks for the replies as this problem has only occured on the last job i did and mainly on the walls which was dot and dabbed the joints were 3mm wide and i went through the same sequence as i always do scrim 1st coat leave to firm up and then 2nd coat etc but after trowwelling and when dry you could see the joints a lightly darker colour and when running your hand over the joints you could feel a slight bump,perhaps ridge was the wrong word to use when explaining earlier, although i see this problem on the odd joint now and then but not on a whole room and why not on the studded walls i boarded and skimmed
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Paper tape your joints whenever possible.the time spent doing this is well worth it in the long run.
 
thanks i will fill all joints and scrim the day before i skim when dot and dabbing and see if it turns out better
 
Paper tape gives the best joint strength of the lot. I have heard that all cielings should have paper taped joints and now in the building regs, anybody else heard this?
 
So why is it quite often when you reskim a artex ceiling the fukin **** paper tapes come off.Or ypu go to look at a job and the paper tapes have dropped.
 
First I've heard. Suppose it will all be taper edge boards for ceilings next.
 
The Apprentice said:
Paper tape gives the best joint strength of the lot. I have heard that all cielings should have paper taped joints and now in the building regs, anybody else heard this?
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No not heard that!! I'm not saying your right or wrong mate but how does paper offer the best joint strength as apposed to scrim or fibatape??:confused:
 
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