parex
- Thread starter dai dog
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warriorupnorth
Private Member
what strength block/type
bodplasterer
Active Member
Parex is a scraped finish so you shouldn't get any blocks showing through, if you are worried it will suggest a base coat to the builder.
you do get ,ghosting' even on mono work, its usually due to not puting on enough thickness.
warriorupnorth
Private Member
Or microgobetis then mesh in first pass if they are the weaker blocks
warriorupnorth
Private Member
15mm
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
They might appear to be 'normal' concrete blocks but it all depends on what strength they are. Some manufacturers insist on a min 7.5 newton block otherwise a base coat is required. Most outer skins are 3.5 newton. Check with your chosen manufacturer for min block strength and if required what base coat is needed. Most manufacturers specify a total min thickness of 15mm combined but Weber want 15mm mono on top of a base coat. Cost a mint!
bodplasterer
Active Member
We did a parex job last week and had to use parex maite as a basecoat horrible stuff sticks to everything.
plasterjfe
Private Member
tis the best mesh adhesive base on the market is maite, you know when its stuck to your house its stayin suck.
plasterjfe
Private Member
Like warrior says mate 15mm beads lay it on 17/18mm and scrape back to 15mm. It is a one coat render as in no need for a scratch coat etc compared with S&C
essexandy
The Lake Governor
I know I'm not the sharpest but do I detect the fact that you're not........over keen on Weber as an outfit?
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Over keen? I have only used Weber up to my latest fall out with them. All I know is Weber specs like some on here only know about Parex. Weber is keen on finding a fault other than theirs so if you follow their guidelines you should keep out of trouble but then you do just that and they still find a reason to blame you on a reason or reasons which are not written anywhere.
So know I am looking at other manufacturers to use. Giving Parex a miss at the moment because they simply won,t answer the phone! Using some SAS gear this week. Their Lite pre Rend and Rapid float. Very nice stuff to use and the Rapid float set in 3 hrs at 7c. Going over it with synthetic trowel next week. A bit pricey though especially on the haulage.
Most of the trouble I had with the Weber complaint was due to a lying tech rep and mis diagnosis. Going to cost me a lot of money to put the job right as the customer has trading standards on their side and a report from Weber which puts me in a bad light. I am contesting the mis diagnoses which I can prove but have got to put the discolouration right.
Anyway apologies if I am quoting Weber to often, that will be deminishing over time as I adjust to 'others'.
bodplasterer
Active Member
K-rend is crap compared to Parex.
richardbrown
Private Member
I used to use all kinds of s**t then switched to Marmorit..... fantastic gear and the back up is second to none. Why use anything else?
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Not heard of anything good about K Rend a lately. My local K Rend merchant heard of my misfortune and told me of a contractor in the South who uses a lot of K Rend and had a similar problem to me and they denied all responsibility and left him in the same trouble as me so I will give them a miss!
Parex gets a good write up but I was talking to a subby who I passed a job onto and he was telling me how good Parex was. I didn't have the heart to tell him that I seen the job and it had cracked.
SAS was interesting to talk to. They had a discolouration and owed up to it. It was found that there was a remnant of a different batch stuck in the hopper when bagging up a new colour. They went on to explain about high tension renders and how some manufacturers have tackled this problem. Slower setting comes into it and water retention which is not in the operatives favour and their product rarely is a same day scrape unless its a perfect summers day. I can see labour cost being higher unless you can combine a morning scrape and afternoon spray.
Going to give SPS a go, like above they told me of Webers downfall in their product but Webers asset is easily available locally and fast setting. The two above companies seem to rely on 5mm base coat and 10mm mono coat with a slow set.
Used SAS grade 5 mesh and that is strong stuff. 5x5mm. Always thought 4x4mm is a bit small for mono with the aggregate being 2mm.
Anyway it is going to be a challenging year ahead. Can always rely on you lads for advice and support.
Parex gets a good write up but I was talking to a subby who I passed a job onto and he was telling me how good Parex was. I didn't have the heart to tell him that I seen the job and it had cracked.
SAS was interesting to talk to. They had a discolouration and owed up to it. It was found that there was a remnant of a different batch stuck in the hopper when bagging up a new colour. They went on to explain about high tension renders and how some manufacturers have tackled this problem. Slower setting comes into it and water retention which is not in the operatives favour and their product rarely is a same day scrape unless its a perfect summers day. I can see labour cost being higher unless you can combine a morning scrape and afternoon spray.
Going to give SPS a go, like above they told me of Webers downfall in their product but Webers asset is easily available locally and fast setting. The two above companies seem to rely on 5mm base coat and 10mm mono coat with a slow set.
Used SAS grade 5 mesh and that is strong stuff. 5x5mm. Always thought 4x4mm is a bit small for mono with the aggregate being 2mm.
Anyway it is going to be a challenging year ahead. Can always rely on you lads for advice and support.
Rigsby
TPF Special Forces
Forgot to add, I know of someone in the South who uses Marmorit and has never had a problem. May well give them a go as well. I did have a local rep but he has gone. Might have a Flotto job to do in the new year. Thanks to Blones advice.
goody
Private Member
Jesus rigsby you've had your fair share of bad luck with mono mate! Webers used on load of persimmon sites round my way and although it doesn't look full of cracks....it does get stinking after 3 or 4 years and I mean black with crud off the road etc and green on north facing elevations. Even so they still churn them out at volume regardless.
So as well as cracking issues you mention and a lack of support from them in disputes, it gets dirty in no time. Not the best choice.
Give us a full level 5 diagnostic of your better choice of mono butt when you crack it(eek).
So as well as cracking issues you mention and a lack of support from them in disputes, it gets dirty in no time. Not the best choice.
Give us a full level 5 diagnostic of your better choice of mono butt when you crack it(eek).
Have you ever had a problem with presto
Gibbo
Well-Known Member
mr logic strikes again
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