over boarding
- Thread starter daz1968
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warriorupnorth
Private Member
easy, find the joists and board away
M
mrspoon
Guest
depends how old the house is... with older houses the joists could be twister and warped and slightly off etc, but then again so could the new ones (especially if in bulgaria)! but since your overboarding anwyay jsut blow some holes in it with a hamer and find one them measure 400mm and there should be another one, mark those out and then do the sae for the other ende. then ping a chalk line fron one end to the other to markl out the middle of the joists, quick smack in the middle of the line to make sure the timber doesnt warp too much and you should be good to go 8) last one i did was way out, more like twiglets than joists!
best way by miles is to buy some timber from b and q 50 x 25mm .... screw these into your joists then you've got a frame to work to...... sure it costs for the wood about £1.50 for 2.4m..... but the benefits are endless.... stremgthens the ceiling by sandwiching the old board.... giving your new ceiling more strength and you've got a visual guide instead of guessing where the joists are...... trust me buddy by far best way..... ;D
S
spunkybum
Guest
you could use resilient bar in the same way cross batten the joists and board away
warriorupnorth
Private Member
Why why why , been overboarding ceilings for nearly thirty years and never cross batted yet, ok if your gonna underdraw the ceiling (lower it) but why complicate things and add more expense to an already competetive market , just knock some small holes in the ceiling find the joists and over board the f****ker
time is money, c'mon
time is money, c'mon
skimmin2day
Active Member
warrior is right guys...
Just over board why bother mending summot that aint broken.
Be sure to 50mm screws though !!
Just over board why bother mending summot that aint broken.
Be sure to 50mm screws though !!
S
spunkybum
Guest
im sure there was a fixing around that you could use to directly screw into the p/board not the joists .....i didnt dream this one honest!.......anyone heard of it?
richardbrown
Private Member
spunkybum said:
Yeah I know the stuff, its called gripfill
Rich
rockhardsolidplastering
Active Member
i always knock a bit of dot an dab up and put on back if you miss with a few screws it dont matter ceing is going no where
warriorupnorth
Private Member
Blu tack ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Naw thats just si;lly eh
warriorupnorth said:
;D ;D ;D
Ok in answer to your question i'd like to way up the pro's Vs the Con's.
downside:
34.5mm of ceiling height gone forever (omg!) :-[
lose out on £10 (MAX) of profit having to pay £1.64 per 2.4 meters.. (omg!) :-[
Plus side: ;D
1) stronger ........this is because as with a lot of older ceilings they may sag in area's also they will have used cloat nails instead of screws which will in time work loose. this is the foundation of our new ceiling were talking about by the way! just before we double the weight of it!!!!.... by battening up your sandwiching the old ceiling between the new batterns and the joists with screws... thus its solid and will forever be solid.
2) save time..... thats right save time.... instead of messing around stabbing ceiling to find joists not knowing if your in the joists properly or half in or half out!
3)easier to board....... this is because you can see where your boards and cuts are ending in the same way as doing a stud wall....
4) no movement ..... with older ceilings some of the cloat nails may have already come loose and therefore risk cracks in your newly plastered ceiling over time.....
5) better alround job with a better longer lasting finish.......
so looks like i'l complicate things and continue to battern then .... the choice is yours daz ;D ;D ;D
richardbrown
Private Member
platinum said:warriorupnorth said:
;D ;D ;D
Ok in answer to your question i'd like to way up the pro's Vs the Con's.
downside:
34.5mm of ceiling height gone forever (omg!) :-[
lose out on £10 (MAX) of profit having to pay £1.64 per 2.4 meters.. (omg!) :-[
Plus side: ;D
1) stronger ........this is because as with a lot of older ceilings they may sag in area's also they will have used cloat nails instead of screws which will in time work loose. this is the foundation of our new ceiling were talking about by the way! just before we double the weight of it!!!!.... by battening up your sandwiching the old ceiling between the new batterns and the joists with screws... thus its solid and will forever be solid.
2) save time..... thats right save time.... instead of messing around stabbing ceiling to find joists not knowing if your in the joists properly or half in or half out!
3)easier to board....... this is because you can see where your boards and cuts are ending in the same way as doing a stud wall....
4) no movement ..... with older ceilings some of the cloat nails may have already come loose and therefore risk cracks in your newly plastered ceiling over time.....
5) better alround job with a better longer lasting finish.......
so looks like i'l complicate things and continue to battern then .... the choice is yours daz ;D ;D ;D
But you would be using 40 mm screws right through the old ceiling in to the old joists, so if the old one is screwed or nailed doesnt matter a monkeys f**k
Rich
warriorupnorth
Private Member
Yep exactly its his choice , but i know i can board and skim a standard room ceiling (5x4) and be on the next job for dinner (or in the pub with an extra twenty quid in my pocket)
I'm not saying your wrong platinum if it works for you then fine but it just seems a bit ott and like i said been overboardin years with not one call back mate
Ps don't forget your labour fixing laths as well as the screws and the chalk and splinters and a saw to cut ya laths and treatment if not pre-treated and the damage to the rain forests ( should be a big smiley on the end of this but typed in quick reply by mistake )
I'm not saying your wrong platinum if it works for you then fine but it just seems a bit ott and like i said been overboardin years with not one call back mate
Ps don't forget your labour fixing laths as well as the screws and the chalk and splinters and a saw to cut ya laths and treatment if not pre-treated and the damage to the rain forests ( should be a big smiley on the end of this but typed in quick reply by mistake )
B
bigsegs
Guest
warrior, try typing colonclosebracket in a post...
warriorupnorth
Private Member
[color=green ???]how the hell do yo do that then ???[/color]
warriorupnorth
Private Member
ooops
FatmanWithATrowel
New Member
I hate breaking into the ceiling - so may sparks and plumbers just chuck their gear on the boards now and dont clip them, you've only got to touch a plastic pipe with something sharp and it start pi$$in everywhere. I like to use a down light cutter, slightly messier but give me more control if its large enough to see whats up there all the better.
The stud detectors are sh1te mate - at least all the ones I've used. doesn't matter what they're over even plain board and its +/- 2inch and it takes soooo long and so many passes to get that far.
The stud detectors are sh1te mate - at least all the ones I've used. doesn't matter what they're over even plain board and its +/- 2inch and it takes soooo long and so many passes to get that far.
B
bigsegs
Guest
not normally one to be argumentative is the old seggs but erm.. fatman? are you suggesting that a 80mm (or whetever size) holesaw is going to do less damage to cables and plastic (even copper) pipe than a pokey stick or a hammer?
and anyway... if its a l+p ceiling the laths will protect whatevers behind em?
and if its new enough to have plastic pipe its new enuff to have boards in which case a hand shaped hole and a good pull ;D will have it sorted in no time :
and anyway... if its a l+p ceiling the laths will protect whatevers behind em?
and if its new enough to have plastic pipe its new enuff to have boards in which case a hand shaped hole and a good pull ;D will have it sorted in no time :
platinum said:
Platinum im by no means on here to slate anyone but your giving Daz 1968 the wrong end of the stick mate !!!
Firstly as Warrior said your putting un-necessary materials and labour on the job, Why !!!!!!
In order to screw your batterns to the joists youve got to find the joists first,if youve found the joists why not just do what everyone else does and fire some 50mm dry walls thro old board into the joists you've just found, this will pull the ceiling up taking out the sag your on about,also if youve found the joists correctly and ran a chalk line thro you wont need the batterns as the visual aid that your also on about Why !!!!!! Your not giving the ceiling more strenght by putting up batterns just adding more weight to it Why !!!!!!
trust me buddy by far "NOT" best way
If you were working down our way you'd be laughed of the job.
Nuff Said
iain_flanagan
New Member
FIND YA JOIST EACH END OF ROOM CHALK LINE SCREW BOARDS UP SKIM IT DRAW YA MONEY AND GET TO THE NEXT UN STOP FAFIN ABOUT
S
spunkybum
Guest
very good point mate (wink) i did an overboard recently and just missed a huge pipe ......err the big grey one?? .......absoluetly shat myself and quickly thanked god (smile) .....it ran alongside a small boxing in in the corner of the room .......be a little weary (wink)..........(im touching myself).........(wink)FatmanWithATrowel said:
murplastering
Member
rather than screw batten to ceiling then board id rather screw boards to the floor and turn the house upside down
FatmanWithATrowel
New Member
bigsegs said:
Not less damage if you catch one no - but less likely to cause the damage in the first place.
Each to their own - but Id rather put 1 hole in and know where 2 joists are than randomly poke lots of holes into a void hoping the resistance is a joist and not a gas pipe.
B
bigsegs
Guest
mmmmmm... drilling into blind spaces... the stories i could tell.. ;D
warriorupnorth
Private Member
yes those were the days, twenty years younger and two stone lighterbigsegs said:
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