Making a building habitable

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hollybank

hollybank

Private Member
I need to make this outside building habitable.
What’s the best solution for it?
I’ve taken the old plasterboard off to reveal the lath,nine inch solid brickwork no cavity.
Ground is about 24 inches above and no way of digging out and is showing damp inside.
I’ve got to insulate the building ceiling and walls.
Thanks
 

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bobski said:
Need more info, space and future use etc

At this stage, I'd go gypline system.
Click to expand...
It’s going to be heated and used as an office.
Just worried about the damp if to tank the walls or not as it might cause condensation?
Am I alright to use just insulated boards on the battens?
Cheers
 
the biggest thing is the damp, everything else should be pretty straight forward, every time a job like this is done it’s a different spec for every builder I work for so I’m just going to give you a big cuddle and say you will get there mate don’t worry :birra:
 
Celotex vapour barrier an extra over wrap of cellotex on the the ceilings and a bit of room for the walls and roof to breathe that’s all I know
 
hollybank said:
It’s going to be heated and used as an office.
Just worried about the damp if to tank the walls or not as it might cause condensation?
Am I alright to use just insulated boards on the battens?
Cheers
Click to expand...



Personally I wouldn't let them touch, board and brick,


I'm pretty sure that the decent insulated boards (not polystyrene) have a membrane on the sandwich to stop it being a problem - a breather


I'm 90%, as I had a similar one a few years ago and had it specd.


Ended up using the k board £70 a sheet (well pricy at the time)



We were chatting with the builder at the time about putting roofing/breather membrane on first (stapled)… and then installing.......
 
hollybank said:
I need to make this outside building habitable.
What’s the best solution for it?
I’ve taken the old plasterboard off to reveal the lath,nine inch solid brickwork no cavity.
Ground is about 24 inches above and no way of digging out and is showing damp inside.
I’ve got to insulate the building ceiling and walls.
Thanks
Click to expand...
EWI?
 
Hollybank I wouldn’t board straight to bare timber on the wall tank it build an independent stud wall with a cavity or gypline cellotex damp membrane
That’s my final guess I’m still stuck on the floor getting soaked
 
If the ground is 24” above it could still rot those timbers mate it’s way above skirting lines if it failed
 
bobski said:
Personally I wouldn't let them touch, board and brick,


I'm pretty sure that the decent insulated boards (not polystyrene) have a membrane on the sandwich to stop it being a problem - a breather


I'm 90%, as I had a similar one a few years ago and had it specd.


Ended up using the k board £70 a sheet (well pricy at the time)



We were chatting with the builder at the time about putting roofing/breather membrane on first (stapled)… and then installing.......
Click to expand...
That’s what I was thinking honestly.
But would you tank the walls 1 meter up just to stop the smell of damp and would it cause condensation even though the heat won’t hit the cold walls hopefully?
 
hollybank said:
That’s what I was thinking honestly.
But would you tank the walls 1 meter up just to stop the smell of damp and would it cause condensation even though the heat won’t hit the cold walls hopefully?
Click to expand...


Depends on budget

If you can

Timber off

Hack and scabble


3 coat slurry at opposite directions each time, up then across then diagonal

Stick timbers on dry tanking with plenty of sikaflex



Membrane and board
Or decent board.
 
Haven’t a clue sorry mate it’s only advice I know from what I’ve seen I’m no expert im a house basher
Asfaik I’d tank the walls to stop the damp, you shouldn’t have an issue with condensation if you leave a gap between the Insulation and walls and use a vapour barrier
Not sure about the smell guess that would go in time ?
 
We’re plasterers there’s probably 3 people here tops I’d take advice seriously we can help all you want on plastering issues but this is damp issues it may go beyond mates advice sorry
 
spunky said:
We’re plasterers there’s probably 3 people here tops I’d take advice seriously we can help all you want on plastering issues but this is damp issues it may go beyond mates advice sorry
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Just trying to get a second or two opinion,I know people have got different ideas and better ways of doing things.
Price ain’t a problem just don’t want it do bite me on the arse.
Same as you say it’s the damp that the problem.
Thanks all so far.
 
spunky said:
It’s a job that needs professional advice really I think mate
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spunky said:
We’re plasterers there’s probably 3 people here tops I’d take advice seriously.
Click to expand...

We’ll see what the other 2 say.

Let’s examine the evidence…

Below ground, no way of digging out externally so it’s like a mini cellar.

Given that, then whatever you do is a bit of a cover up as you’re on the wrong side of hydrostatic pressure.

At some point, the little boy will take his finger out of the dam, but it doesn’t necessarily mean it will burst it’s banks Holly.

Because there are 2 lines of defence!

Well actually 3, but Pauly is still trialling it

Www. CHD.com/prototype/trials/skirtingboardtap

In all seriousness though, what’s the floor comprised of and does it ever flood?
 
hollybank said:
I need to make this outside building habitable.
What’s the best solution for it?
I’ve taken the old plasterboard off to reveal the lath,nine inch solid brickwork no cavity.
Ground is about 24 inches above and no way of digging out and is showing damp inside.
I’ve got to insulate the building ceiling and walls.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Needs a membrane mate. You can then dab the insulated PIR board directly to the membrane (dabs on plugs). If there is water pressure you will need to install drainage channel and sump pump.

Another option would be to tank then sand/cement render over the slurry. Then dot and dab insulated plasterboard to the render.

Personally I always use the membrane method as I like to work fast and clean.

See what @essexandy opinion is?
 
FreeD said:
Needs a membrane mate. You can then dab the insulated PIR board directly to the membrane (dabs on plugs). If there is water pressure you will need to install drainage channel and sump pump.

Another option would be to tank then sand/cement render over the slurry. Then dot and dab insulated plasterboard to the render.

Personally I always use the membrane method as I like to work fast and clean.

See what @essexandy opinion is?
Click to expand...
I think Google is your only friend.
 
I’ve decided to go with the membrane system
Dot and dab insulated boards on top.
Company I ordered off were very helpful on the telephone conversation.
Ordered yesterday late afternoon came at 8.30 am to the job.
Thanks all.
 
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