k-rend

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Number2

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K-rend is the worse material in the world FACT!! does anybody actually use this material on a regular basis???:huh:
 

Number2

New Member
it pulls in to much when your trying to place in the mesh coat... then the rubbing is awful same day.. what we doing wrong?
 

simplybesty

Private Member
a lot is to do with the substrate, on 7n blocks its fine but a lot of house builders are using cheaper blocks like 3n, these suck the life out of fine renders like krend making it crack and discolour and the only way we will use it on lightwaight or low quality blocks is baserend it first but builders dont want to pay the extra and will offer the jobs around to some idiot comes along and does it. what happens, they dont get paid and the building is painted.
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
For hand application I think krend is the best out there

monorex for the machine - most lads with machines have there favourites

use primer on 3.5N block
 

K2plastering

New Member
K-rend is the worse material in the world FACT!! does anybody actually use this material on a regular basis???:huh:

My thoughts exactly, started using it about a month or so ago! and literally hated it..Nice when it goes right but awfull if you get it wrong!! Plus the base coat is hard work to apply and the top coat is messy s**t-falls off the walls when your apllying it and forms a skin far too quick, ruling is a nightmare! seems you have to work extra fast and rule off straight away...but then im new to it and guess still got alot to learn..so i feel you there buddy!!
 

simplybesty

Private Member
from what i remember it was the best gear out of all of them to lay by hand, if its rolling off when applying your trying to bring it out full thickness in one coat. It does skin up quick but you just have to make sure you have gear being knocked up on each level ahead of you or get a machine and spray it on.
 

K2plastering

New Member
from what i remember it was the best gear out of all of them to lay by hand, if its rolling off when applying your trying to bring it out full thickness in one coat. It does skin up quick but you just have to make sure you have gear being knocked up on each level ahead of you or get a machine and spray it on.

fair point mate. I have been looking into a machine, but is it right they dont spray ft? And if not is there a fine finish they do spray? Really struggling with what machine to go for.. Im hopefully lookig at a pft minijet 3 phase machine at some point this week so should have a better idea then! The other thing i dont get is the reccomendation k-rend give for the thickness you put on. from what they go by i think you end up putting on something like 20mm inc base coat but i was advised 10mm beads..?! how does that work! im guessing now that for 1 coat application when a base coat isnt required..?!
 

spunky

Private Member
Get it on as tight as you can without the brickwork grinning through and finishing nice around beads **** recommended thicknesses

If you can afford it just buy a machine mate you can always sell it if you don't get on with it
 

K2plastering

New Member
i kinda guessed k-rend specified that thickness so you use more materials! as for the machine im well up for buying one just trying to suss out what i can use it for other than just mono..

I heard there no good for hardwall..any thoughts on mp75...?
 

spunky

Private Member
a few mm over beads Mate if you stick 10mm beads it'll be about right 15mm beads are stupid you could be laying on 20mm they'll all spray everything bar finish coats
 

K2plastering

New Member
i think im getting it now, the last three areas I have done have all gone well to be honest. the only thing i have been a bit concerned about is when im doing 2 passes and the first pass pulls in a fair bit before i put my 2nd pass on..is it possible to scratch through to that layer if your not carefull?
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
if you are having probs with krend skinning up or pulling in too quick for ruling etc then stay away from other brands. krend is good for hand app because it hangs and doesn't skin up too quick. you aint gettin it on fast enough, need to get it on faster with coloured render you cant hang about it needs to fly on no stopping for mixes get a lad doing that just feeding you the gear. like it says in the thread krend is the best out there for hand app but coloured render aint like sand and cement youi need to go like the clappers, no talkin. stick the krend on like this and you will be fine.

coloured mono is really a machine product, the speed of application is key, I have seen it both ways and on anything with big areas now I never risk it I always bring the lads in with the pump.
 

K2plastering

New Member
thanks mate i learnt the hard way on a job i did a couple weeks ago!! i mixed and applied myself to a 25 sq meter wall!! ended up doing it again.. bought in another spread and got the labour knocking up in half a waterbutt and launched it at the wall! was mint!!! definatly all about the speed you get it on!! and the more hands the better!! machine must be the way forward with this gear!
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
mono should be 15mm to prevent show through/premature curing etc, but its all down to the substrate again and the suction all this can affect the colour too. To be getting a really proffesional standard you need to understand all about the different substrates and suction levels etc,, if you go on 10mm you risk showing of the mortar joints unless your background is solid with even suction imo using 10mm bead is a skrimpers way of saving money on the job but risking the final finish. Im not saying there aint ways to get a top finish by using smaller beads but you gotta know what your doing to acheive it tips and tricks come with understanding the gear and the backgrounds and so on and so forth etc etc ....
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
I did four sample tests on ivory ft last year from the same mix 2 dried outside 2 dried inside and scraped a different times, you would be amazed at how different the colours were
 

K2plastering

New Member
I know what your saying..im not into scrimping or cutting corners just want to do a good job, but im a novice with coloured renders and so im just finding my feet with it. I have been on the phone to k-rend technical the whole time and following there specifications so i shouldnt have gone far wrong..but it is like anything once ive had experience and get to know the product i can see me getting to like it,thats why im sticking with it. The first time i used it i didnt ever want to use it again but since it has been the subject of my nightmares on a regular basis Im not going to let it beat me!!lol I will conquer it!! thanks for your input guys!
 

lucius

Well-Known Member
mono should be 15mm to prevent show through/premature curing etc, but its all down to the substrate again and the suction all this can affect the colour too. To be getting a really proffesional standard you need to understand all about the different substrates and suction levels etc,, if you go on 10mm you risk showing of the mortar joints unless your background is solid with even suction imo using 10mm bead is a skrimpers way of saving money on the job but risking the final finish. Im not saying there aint ways to get a top finish by using smaller beads but you gotta know what your doing to acheive it tips and tricks come with understanding the gear and the backgrounds and so on and so forth etc etc ....
Understand what you are saying mate but why do they sell 10mm beads then, just to throw one in the equation been using Weber pral today first time in this country what a pile sticky sloppy s**t, used it loads in Spain completely different product.
 

goody

Private Member
10mm beads can cause problems with the render drying out too quick on the dabs or even showing through if someones been sloppy and not cut em back enough. 10mm beads for the basecoat of a bucket finish is good but defo 15mm for mono all dabbed on with the gear itself. K rend is useless to bead with though.........it goes like dry weetabix under the bead instantly so you can't push em in enough unlike parex which is a beautiful beading gear
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
all beads for different spec render correct, you can get 12 and 13mm too all depends on the supplier try sas pro bead Im sure the last time i had 13mm grey bead and they are good beads too, dont snap like rendaplas, I always try to get a decent bead, masterbead are also good beads.

my b and q have 13mm white upvc
 

simplybesty

Private Member
John, 10mm beads are fine as long as they are dabbed on and not nailed. by doinf this way you get your 15mm , if you stick 15mm up then your looking at 18mm thickness
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
John, 10mm beads are fine as long as they are dabbed on and not nailed. by doinf this way you get your 15mm , if you stick 15mm up then your looking at 18mm thickness

Aye mate like I said, ways of leaving a top job using tens if you know how to go about it such as what you mentioned and onto dense brick using microgobetis to help it but the lads taking first steps might not be able to get away with these tricks. best to keep the tricks in house unless thety are comfortable wit the product.

the 7 and 3.5 block thing as a big learning curve for me, the pral m sucks into 3.5s like a fekin hooker on bonus. I be usin 15mm on 3.5 and prime it first with dryvits acrylic wall primer,

have to admit tho one super job we scratched out fully with parmurex and lankolatex about 5mm then got brian on with us and sprayed blanc du litteral at around 12 (scaped back to 10) it went like a dream, rubbed it the following mornin early doors.
 

goody

Private Member
what's the score with that blanc du littoral plaster?? Is it cheaper than monorex...with it being just white(propper white not natural white like G00
 
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