k-rend

Status
Not open for further replies.

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
they charged me more than that as it had to come from france think it was 13 quid a bag
 

Gibbo

Well-Known Member
render 138.jpg
 

owls

Private Member
you should be able to use it below dpc i would imagine if its anything like monorex where you can modify it using lankolatex.
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
"Blanc du litteral" is litterally white - its not a yellow or cotton shade like standards from the other manu's is more of a grey shade I would say because it is closest to a natural white you will get.

it is also more dense a product than the standards, and its a very fine texture also, creamy, when it goes it goes hard as rock, need a good background or a proper prep first. hence the reason we used lanko/parmurex scratch coat
 

brett

New Member
k rend

K-rend is the worse material in the world FACT!! does anybody actually use this material on a regular basis???:huh:

hay,i said the same for three years.not to bad now.you get in the swing of it.only thing is,rub same day?rub next day.we rub same day now.long hours but least its a bit easyer on the arms.(rub with i-bar and tickle with nail float).6 years under my belt now and mostly grumbled about the english weather,not the product.moved to madrid now,so looking for render work in a wormer climate.good look with the renders.if you give me your email address ill send my portfoleo over.

p.s anyone know of any leads or links to work in madrid.(i know,i should be so lucky)
 

lucius

Well-Known Member
Be interested how you get on most of Spain is shot but you might get lucky in big city it would be helpfull to speak the language in a place like Madrid where English is not widely spoken, good luck.
 

plasterjfe

Private Member
no mate its not cheaper, you may even pay more. its a very fine scrape finish so the grain size must be really small and prob less of it so more product less bulk seems to be creamy maybe for this reason. its also a little more dense and hard when it goes prob for sam reason but its proper white like a ghost in winter
 
k rends good stuff, i like it, we use ft and wt often, the worst is it does tighten up quick so we coat it fast and neat then alluminium darby over it. powerwalls classic stone is same finish but a hell of alot easier to use.
 

antoni

New Member
private jobs wi hand ball k-rend, we found it better to put on afternoon scrape down morning. also mix 2bags a time rough, throw em in large barrel base 6ft across 2ft high.
throw bout 12bags in rough mixed, let it stand 10min, then mix up the lot a 2nd time.
If u only mix it once it go`s DROP DEAD FRED
 

wiganlad

Private Member
i kinda guessed k-rend specified that thickness so you use more materials! as for the machine im well up for buying one just trying to suss out what i can use it for other than just mono..

I heard there no good for hardwall..any thoughts on mp75...?
just dune 6000m2 of hardwall with a g4 and had non probs what so ever. using mp75 atm and must admit its alot easier proces.
 

mark ross

Private Member
just dune 6000m2 of hardwall with a g4 and had non probs what so ever. using mp75 atm and must admit its alot easier proces.

We completed 2500+ m2 of traditional s+c render using CPI bagged render, 2 coat work over the last 2 months, sprayed a treat.

Have 50m2 concrete base to renovate next using Mapei Ultraplan Renovation Screed, that will go throught the pump nicely too , if your into floors that is.
Lads on here will point you in many other directions regarding machine use.You will be amazed at what is acheivable.
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
They should do a 12mm bead

I cant agree more! Most of our work is refurbishment work. Using Weber we have to rend-aid the walls first. A 2-3mm coat with mesh embedded and a skim over then stippled for a key. Flatten 50mm around the edges for where the beads are going. Weber specifies 15mm minimum thickness but 3-4mm of rend-aid then a 15mm bead dabbed on with mono so there will be at 1mm behind the mesh gives a total thickness of around 19mm! That's a lot of mono. A 12 or 13mm bead would be ideal. I have contacted a supplier who has white 13mm stop beads in stock and can get 13mm angle and drip but to order and supplied in boxes of 50. White only. I might get the drip in stock and buy the stop as and when. Can use 10mm angle on 3mm thick dabs.

Think it is time 13mm was more widely available for where mono goes on base coats or bad brickwork. Seeing it from the manufacturers point of view though 15mm sells more gear.
 

Rigsby

TPF Special Forces
Had to do it by hand today but only small panels. I average 1.4 bags per m2 with the machine with hardly any waste. We don't tend to put much more over bead thickness. This is my point with the 15mm beads. !3mm beads would be better. 2mm doesn't sound much but the savings would be 1 bag per 7.5m2. Yes owls its DBB at Bradford.
 

goody

Private Member
does anyone know who sells powerwall render round south wales chaps......wouldn mind giving it a whirl. Seem to remember it having a texture all of its own which was nice?
 

mark ross

Private Member
Rigsby,

Try SAS systems, PROBEAD, we have had 12mm beads from them. Angle and stop. Google it mate.

Or why not fix your 15mm bead first, rendaid or high bond with mesh then mono @ average 10 to 12mm depending on base coat depth. Exceptions being ares where you might be cutting ashlar embelishments where you will need full 15 or 20mono depth, depending on ashlar depth,of coarse.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top