k-rend over a 4 to 1 sand/cement scratch coat

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duc

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hi guys
we have had a look at a new build house the block-work is as rough as a badgers arse so we r thinking about applying a sand/cement scratch coat with water-proofer and keying it with a kane brush just to straighten it up a bit before applying the k-rend
i have done this on small garden walls and it seemed to work quite well ,
any thoughts on this way of going about it on the larger areas
thanks for your input
 
i can`t seem to edit my post so just to say we only ever use sharp sea-sand for external rendering as we are not fans of the the crap they dig out of the ground as it always seems to break down to easily and dust off after a few years
 
duc said:
hi guys
we have had a look at a new build house the block-work is as rough as a badgers arse so we r thinking about applying a sand/cement scratch coat with water-proofer and keying it with a kane brush just to straighten it up a bit before applying the k-rend
i have done this on small garden walls and it seemed to work quite well ,
any thoughts on this way of going about it on the larger areas
thanks for your input
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youd have to do the whole panel to get even suction,
cant you just give it a tight coat of hpx?
 
I've done this before, dubbed out areas to get it flat (not all of it)...I then used base coat with mesh before the colour coat. All went well, no cracking.
 
Hpx is a renovating base coat Richard it's not needed on new builds cost an arm and a leg young man old man
 
Av done it over S&C with weber mono when i had to use EML on a little timber frame extension.........so far so good............
 
spunky said:
Hpx is a renovating base coat Richard it's not needed on new builds cost an arm and a leg young man old man
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just re read his post :RpS_blushing: didnt see the 'new house' bit.

and im 30, so i just feel old.
 
hi mate, ive put k rend over sand and cement. no problems or cracks. k rend will only guarantee it with the hpx on top of the scratch coat. i used plastering sand, waterproofer,cement, sbr and fibre's. i had to eml it first. it was smooth brick and all over the shop. hope this helps
 
Get the grinder out and u'l have to make a key and try get the paint off the face of the bricks , a one a long my way I priced for has fallen off because it was done on painted bricks the foools !
 
Isn't r7 a primer and micro a key or are they the same? How do parex get away with saying you can use parinter over paint if its sound tbh you might aswell use a slurry if its sound if you can use products over the top its got to be as good as
 
not quite sure what your asking from your post...
but weve used r7 on dodgy substrates before following the same principal of pva, ie giving it a coat, letting it dry and then applying another coat, then applying render whilst its still tacky as per k rend spec ,but micro is a superior productand it only requires 1 coat.I never mix products from different manufactorers.
you use parinter as part of a thin coat system,because you need to incorporate 5mm mesh, you dont use micro and parinter.
 
I thought r7 was more suction control than a key and micro does both, I just mean if parinter designed for going over paint it throws a few rules out of the bag like eml over paint
if there's a product out there modified to do it you'd think as long as its solid a slurry would still do the job, not trying to make a point as such it just seems that render manufacturers are saying if e paints solid it's ok without a mechanical key
 
spunky said:
I thought r7 was more suction control than a key and micro does both, I just mean if parinter designed for going over paint it throws a few rules out of the bag like eml over paint
if there's a product out there modified to do it you'd think as long as its solid a slurry would still do the job, not trying to make a point as such it just seems that render manufacturers are saying if e paints solid it's ok without a mechanical key
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its the composition of parinter,i guess. it good gear, and thats why its taken off.
As you say it removes the need for splatter dash coats etc, and thin coats can go straight over sandcement renders that look unsightly through years of paint and peeling etc.
 
Fair do's if the paint is clean these micro's, R7's and Parinters may well stick but that last layer of paint has to hold the weight of the lot.

Now if the last layer of paint fails it is not the manufacturers fault as their product is still stuck to the paint layer that failed. So if you was to offer years of warranty like some do how does the operator expect to get away with it if there was a claim due to the paint failing?

After all we can warrant the product to stick because the manufacturers warrant it will stick. Who said anything about the paint not being able to take the weight?

Just thinking if trading standards got on your back how you would be able to bull bobar your way out of this one?
 
like going over anything, your only as good as your substrate.
its down to the applicator to asses the suitability I guess, and do a test panel if needs be.
 
What I would like to see is Hilti do a flat plastic washer you can fire on. Put your sticky base coat on and mesh then pin the mesh back in case it blows. The only ones I can find are slightly raised. A perforated 50-65mm flat plastic disk with either a small centre hole or no hole. Anyone?
 
Rigsby said:
What I would like to see is Hilti do a flat plastic washer you can fire on. Put your sticky base coat on and mesh then pin the mesh back in case it blows. The only ones I can find are slightly raised. A perforated 50-65mm flat plastic disk with either a small centre hole or no hole. Anyone?
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weve used like a little mushroom type fitting like you describe, first pass off base and mesh then drill and hammer these fixings in they sit really flat and wont pull out then top off with your second pass
 
would definatly give it a s/c coat first just done the back off a house hacked off all the render then used micro and rendered with parex the top half came out gud but was thin on a few spots caz off high spots from were we had hacked off so we decided to s/c the bottom half as the bottom half was and extension so they were seperate walls it worked a treat and no problems occured
 
Did a k rend job about 3 weeks ago and it's been a really cold day today an grey patches have appeared does anyone know what this is , it's never happened before so I'm a bit confused, all the k rend was applied to the right thickness and scraped the next day can anyone help
thanks
liam
 
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