K-Rend Crap.

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Well if it hasnt cracked by time its dryed out u will be fine mate lol , thats the theory i have been told though . And spraying is wetter again , fair enough i was told for sand cement , urs has polymers or what ever but kind of the same ?
 
Im not meaning having it stiff as , it would be unworkable , just thats the theory i have been told . And it sort of makes sense , just had that hinted on to me thats all :)
 
So used K rend for the first time this week.
Was taught with Weber and only use that or Parex.

Had to use k tend to match rest of house.
Never underestimated on a job before but managed to come up short so had to first pass and then key it and order 4 bags.

Laying it is like using wet sand and no cement real vile.
Got a scratch it later and hopefully it scratches ok.

It was FT Silicone stone colour.

Never using it again if I can help it. Sticking to what I like.

Just started using Parex and that's lovely to lay and scratch.
There product range also makes that my new favourite.
Never had issues with Weber but there range is small.
I've b plastering 20 od years on sand cement il stick to what I now this k rend sounds to much hassle to me lol
 
Surely the sloppier it is the more chance of cracking as theres more water in and less material say per metre ? Its the way ave been taught for hand appling sand cement etc .....

Sometimes taking some of the strength out the cement maybe a good thing though I suppose. Especially on some of the guff blocks that are about.
 
Sometimes taking some of the strength out the cement maybe a good thing though I suppose. Especially on some of the guff blocks that are about.

That seems abit odd ? Its more when the water is leaving the wall there ends up with more air and less material when drying which causes the shirnk cracks ?
 
Surely the sloppier it is the more chance of cracking as theres more water in and less material say per metre ? Its the way ave been taught for hand appling sand cement etc .....

You will get less chance of cracking the slower the set so in theory a wetter mix has less chance of cracking. Premature set can cause all sorts of problems. Slow setring mono is better from a technical point of view imo.

You dont spray any less material with a wetter mix u still need 15 mm finished so you just go over it slower or twice etc.

Think back to your basics when you would return at the eveing to sprayhose down a float set if it was a hot day/night to stop premature drying out.
 
You will get less chance of cracking the slower the set so in theory a wetter mix has less chance of cracking. Premature set can cause all sorts of problems. Slow setring mono is better from a technical point of view imo.

You dont spray any less material with a wetter mix u still need 15 mm finished so you just go over it slower or twice etc.

Think back to your basics when you would return at the eveing to sprayhose down a float set if it was a hot day/night to stop premature drying out.
So using a accelerator is more chance of cracking then?
I have got a Krend Egrade job next week on 3.6. The builder has got the materials and no base coat. I have told him it needs base coat but he wants me to do it anyway. So I think I'll do a full mesh 2 passes and I was going to add accelerator. I've never used accelerator and I've never done Egrade without base coat. Have any of you guys?
 
So using a accelerator is more chance of cracking then?
I have got a Krend Egrade job next week on 3.6. The builder has got the materials and no base coat. I have told him it needs base coat but he wants me to do it anyway. So I think I'll do a full mesh 2 passes and I was going to add accelerator. I've never used accelerator and I've never done Egrade without base coat. Have any of you guys?
What you mean thermolite blocks?
 
Krend onto that block will crack if not in the process or a week later or a few months but it will unless you use a polymer base coat. I was last specified hpx onto that block as even hp12 was not deemed suitable.
You should be ok for next day scrapes on krend now not need accelerator.
 
C
Krend onto that block will crack if not in the process or a week later or a few months but it will unless you use a polymer base coat. I was last specified hpx onto that block as even hp12 was not deemed suitable.
You should be ok for next day scrapes on krend now not need accelerator.
Cheers plastererjft, I know it should be base coated but thought if I full meshed it, it might have a better chance
 
Krend onto that block will crack if not in the process or a week later or a few months but it will unless you use a polymer base coat. I was last specified hpx onto that block as even hp12 was not deemed suitable.
You should be ok for next day scrapes on krend now not need accelerator.

Why does it do it on blockwork? I've never had a problem on bricks, parex micro, dub out sand and cement, then Krend.
 
Why does it do it on blockwork? I've never had a problem on bricks, parex micro, dub out sand and cement, then Krend.


Suction on the block is greater and the block eats up some material, ktend just cant sustain itself on block its too bitty and shrinks in. A base of hp provides a stable suction controlled background and allows a less thick topping all this reduces the shrinkage chances as the base holds the product better than block which takes the life out of it.
 
Anybody ever used Enewall's scratch render?? recently moved south of the border and scratch seems to be the way to go unlike up north. Used Enewall for a while for dry dash but never the scratch, any opinions??
 
Anybody ever used Enewall's scratch render?? recently moved south of the border and scratch seems to be the way to go unlike up north. Used Enewall for a while for dry dash but never the scratch, any opinions??


Lovely gear. Spray it nice and wet and it will sit exactly where u put it. Never slumps ever. Puts some others to shame
 
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