Internal damp walls

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Phil may

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Evening all.
Just stripped and re-rendered external walls on a brick built house with no cavity as it had become porous and was bridging the dpc.
My question is,what would be the best system for the internal walls?Ive stripped out the boarding that was hiding the damage inside and the walls are saturated.If i use vandex then i think it will condensate once the new base and top coat plaster has been installed.Battening the walls isnt an option as there is victorian coving so wont get the depth.I could use renderlite but i still think a wall with no cavity needs to breathe.I would use a dehumidifier first.
Any thoughts?
 
There was bullshit boarding up to picture rail height(it was flush to this)
When they bought the house they hadnt noticed this.
Previous owner had chased old plaster to take battens and then boarded with what looks like fire check board(asbestos survey carried out and none detected)
We now have exposed bare brick
 
treat it with a salt neutraliser ,inject a new dpc, let it dry out as long as possible then render with renovating plaster .
 
Sand and cement is ok for the damp but with it being a 9 inch cold wall you could still get condensation so would pay a little extra and use renovating plaster which has better insulation values....
 
If it's what I think it is it wasn't just hiding the damage it was caus
Phil may said:
There was bullshit boarding up to picture rail height(it was flush to this)
When they bought the house they hadnt noticed this.
Previous owner had chased old plaster to take battens and then boarded with what looks like fire check board(asbestos survey carried out and none detected)
We now have exposed bare brick
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thats what was causing the problem not hiding it take it off and let it dry
 
You are guessing right!
Waterproof render- won't make big difference than boarding
Limelite renovating plaster- thumbs up
 
Way ahead of you chief,already gone so just need to decide the very best way of restoring the internal finish
flynnyman said:
If it's what I think it is it wasn't just hiding the damage it was caus

thats what was causing the problem not hiding it take it off and let it dry
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Looking at Febtank system.Says you can render over with sand and cement the finish with a renovating top coat plaster??
 
Why tank it If the issue has been solved ? Tanking is designed for under ground application where you can't stop the moisture getting into the brick work .... only time I use it is on walls where next doors chimneys are on the other side and cannot be emptied ...
 
roryston said:
waterproof sand cement 4-1, skim it, vent in a external wall in the same room for condensation
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Just because your putting a vent somewhere doesn't mean it will solve condensation issues. What you've suggested will do absolutely nothing apart from let fresh cold air flow into a warm room creating an even bigger cold spot and area more prone to potential mould growth than just rendering the whole wall in s & c.

It needs renovating plaster.
Then a nice bit of MCS3 in the paint to help it aswell.
 
I agree.... A vent will help if it's the humidity causing the problem.... but if it's the surface temperature of the wall the vent will do nothing. ...
 
If you are way ahead you know what's best then. No need to spell it for you- TANK IT AND SAND AND CEMENT WITH WP FROM BOTTOM TO TOP. Tank it again and plaster as usual. Bullet proof!
 
Jgreenplastering said:
Just because your putting a vent somewhere doesn't mean it will solve condensation issues. What you've suggested will do absolutely nothing apart from let fresh cold air flow into a warm room creating an even bigger cold spot and area more prone to potential mould growth than just rendering the whole wall in s & c.

It needs renovating plaster.
Then a nice bit of MCS3 in the paint to help it aswell.
Click to expand...

Sorry I mis read the post I thought I saw something about condensation for some reason?
 
F**k the coving, batten and insulated plasterboard or membrane and insulated plasterboard then re instate the coving
 
Looks like i now have more questions than answers.Seems to be alot of ways this could be done and quite a few methods contradicting each other...
 
flynnyman said:
A vent will help the air move around the room
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That's obvious, what I was getting at is how do you think putting a vent on a cold external wall will stop condensation occurring? It won't, it will create an even colder spot which will no doubt be more prone to mould growth.
The blokes got a cold damp wall, he doesn't need to circulate air he needs to warm the wall up a bit and not being able to do it with insulated board then renovating is his next best route.
Sand and cement as you've suggested will stop the damp but would only make the wall that bit more prone to condensation.
 
Jgreenplastering said:
That's obvious, what I was getting at is how do you think putting a vent on a cold external wall will stop condensation occurring? It won't, it will create an even colder spot which will no doubt be more prone to mould growth.
The blokes got a cold damp wall, he doesn't need to circulate air he needs to warm the wall up a bit and not being able to do it with insulated board then renovating is his next best route.
Sand and cement as you've suggested will stop the damp but would only make the wall that bit more prone to condensation.
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The problem was the boards, take them off let it dry, problem solved it's simple just over complicated on this forum.
 
Having read all the input (thank you)im going to take down the coving and i know a local moulding firm that will reinstate.Going to batten out the walls,20mm celotex between(keep an air gap between the back of it and the wall)vapour barrier and then board out with moisture resistant board and skim keeping a 5mm gap from bottom of board to floor to allow a certain amount of air flow.Reading the comments if i apply any sort of render/plaster to the walls it will take up six months before decoration with no definite answer that it wont cause problems later.
I think this would be the best way for the client to spend their money as i do give guarantees and redoing in 6-8 months would be a disaster
 
Jgreenplastering said:
What is drilling holes in a cold solid external wall and putting a vent on it going to achieve exactly?
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Air flow. well that's what we do on all our jobs involving condensation and 99% of the time it sorts it. But I work for a damp firm we do things a little different sometimes.

As said I misread the post I thought it involved condensation. 1 completely warm wall in a cold room will also cause cold spots
 
Phil may said:
Having read all the input (thank you)im going to take down the coving and i know a local moulding firm that will reinstate.Going to batten out the walls,20mm celotex between(keep an air gap between the back of it and the wall)vapour barrier and then board out with moisture resistant board and skim keeping a 5mm gap from bottom of board to floor to allow a certain amount of air flow.Reading the comments if i apply any sort of render/plaster to the walls it will take up six months before decoration with no definite answer that it wont cause problems later.
I think this would be the best way for the client to spend their money as i do give guarantees and redoing in 6-8 months would be a disaster
Click to expand...
Gonna be an expensive wall for some poor sod.
 
Phil may said:
Having read all the input (thank you)im going to take down the coving and i know a local moulding firm that will reinstate.Going to batten out the walls,20mm celotex between(keep an air gap between the back of it and the wall)vapour barrier and then board out with moisture resistant board and skim keeping a 5mm gap from bottom of board to floor to allow a certain amount of air flow.Reading the comments if i apply any sort of render/plaster to the walls it will take up six months before decoration with no definite answer that it wont cause problems later.
I think this would be the best way for the client to spend their money as i do give guarantees and redoing in 6-8 months would be a disaster
Click to expand...
That's genius ! It will have the same effect like the boards before, but more expensive!
 
vfr12 said:
That's genius ! It will have the same effect like the boards before, but more expensive!
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Instead having a dig why dont you answer the op question?
Not the same at all is it.
1 the wall will be insulated
2 there will be a vapour barrier
3 the internal plaster will no longer be bridging the dpc.
4 the badly fitted bay window by others will in a more suitable state to actually work(i.e Watertight around the perimter)
5 and how you think this will cost any more in labour and materials than tanking and using renovating plaster(which by the way the neighbour used this system,guess what,black mould re-appeared with 8 months.Brilliant)is beyond me.Whats your day rate??
I certainly dont like you seem to think im touting for work.Some of us actually want to do right by the customer,not hack it off,smash it up,get paid and disappear.
But thanks for your input (y)
 
Phil may said:
Instead having a dig why dont you answer the op question?
Not the same at all is it.
1 the wall will be insulated
2 there will be a vapour barrier
3 the internal plaster will no longer be bridging the dpc.
4 the badly fitted bay window by others will in a more suitable state to actually work(i.e Watertight around the perimter)
5 and how you think this will cost any more in labour and materials than tanking and using renovating plaster(which by the way the neighbour used this system,guess what,black mould re-appeared with 8 months.Brilliant)is beyond me.Whats your day rate??
I certainly dont like you seem to think im touting for work.Some of us actually want to do right by the customer,not hack it off,smash it up,get paid and disappear.
But thanks for your input (y)
Click to expand...
 
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